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Switch voltage.


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I want to use 1 of my unused switches on my 06 VLX. Want to wire about 4 amps worth of accessories to it. I know the switch will handle that without a relay. My question is how do I get the 12 volts to the switch, can I just jump it off the switch next to it or is it already wired and hot? I had other unused switches but they were already hot and the light in the switch lit up before I added accessories to it, this switch does not light up currently.

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Malibu didn't wire one of those switches up for who knows what reason.

Proper way to bring power to it is to bring it off an unused breaker at the breaker panel.

-Chris

Edited by 99response
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The breaker panel is held in by six (maybe 8?) screws right under the throttle. take those out and then slide the panel out. You'll be able to clearly see if some of the breakers aren't used. Mine has several empty (heater 1, heater 2, front ballast, shower). Easy to tap in to with a push on terminal. Remember that the panel is hard wired to the battery, so you should disconnect the battery before wiring up the breaker panel.

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Are there any unused breakers and whats it take to get power from there to switch?

Do you have a shower, heated seats, tower lights, etc, there might even be some labeled misc or something like that. Not sure on what gauge wire 8-12ga maybe.

Edit-- Dam you Shawn, faster and more thorough, are you a secretary by day :biggrin:

Edited by Ndawg12
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Don't have Shower, Heated seats or Tower lights. Sounds like there should be an available breaker. I am adding an additional bilge blower that pulls less than 4 amps. Want it on it's own switch. The one next to original Blower switch is not used. This is going to be used to keep my fuel pump cool and fight off vapor lock.

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Didn't want to use excess voltage and noise. Main Blower evacuates air from bottom of bilge but don't circulate any concentrated air anywhere. This blower will blow fresh cool air drawn from up under Starboard gunnel and blow directly on the pump. Will run it when I shut down and sit for longer periods till cooled. That is when heat soak usually set in and shuts me down.

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All you need to run power between the two is a piece of wire and two spade terminals, one right from the switch and the other to the unused breaker. I think Malibu uses 16 gauge or so, not a big deal because its a short run.

Also make sure the switch has a ground wire run to the negative terminal block. IIRC the switch has a ground wire installed at the factory but no power wire run.

No relay needed for a blower for sure, the existing switch for the blower does not have a relay.

-Chris

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Got it done. Came off tower light breaker on side panel and ran hot wire to center Lug on acc switch next to blower switch. Ran my hot wire back to blower motor off bottom lug. Switch already had ground wire attached to top lug. I piggybacked my ground from blower motor off that one. Any problem using the ground that way?

Thanks for your help, I knew the crew would come through, they always do! :clap:

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Got it done. Came off tower light breaker on side panel and ran hot wire to center Lug on acc switch next to blower switch. Ran my hot wire back to blower motor off bottom lug. Switch already had ground wire attached to top lug. I piggybacked my ground from blower motor off that one. Any problem using the ground that way?

Thanks for your help, I knew the crew would come through, they always do! :clap:

Ground doesn't discriminate, unless you are talking stereos.

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Ground doesn't discriminate, unless you are talking stereos.

it sort of does, doesn't it? Your circuit is only as good as the smallest gauge wire you are running, whether on the power or ground side. So by running separate power runs but a joint ground run, you're only going to be able to pull as much current as you could through a single power run too.

I'm no electrician so that could also all be internet-voodoo-hearsay.

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it sort of does, doesn't it? Your circuit is only as good as the smallest gauge wire you are running, whether on the power or ground side. So by running separate power runs but a joint ground run, you're only going to be able to pull as much current as you could through a single power run too.

I'm no electrician so that could also all be internet-voodoo-hearsay.

Keep in mind the context of the question and equipment Involved, and we know ground is common.

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Got it done. Came off tower light breaker on side panel and ran hot wire to center Lug on acc switch next to blower switch. Ran my hot wire back to blower motor off bottom lug. Switch already had ground wire attached to top lug. I piggybacked my ground from blower motor off that one. Any problem using the ground that way?

Thanks for your help, I knew the crew would come through, they always do! :clap:

You should be fine grounding it that way, but was the extra 6 inches of wire and a ring terminal to the ground block too much for ya... :Tease3:

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You should be fine grounding it that way, but was the extra 6 inches of wire and a ring terminal to the ground block too much for ya... :Tease3:

OK I'll go back and fix it! Hey at least I drew power from the right place.(Tower light breaker) I was going to just jump it from the other blower switch without the help from this thread. I knew both blower motors didn't draw more than the 1 circuit could handle.

By the way, extra air didn't seem to help with Vapor Lock. Stuck me floating for 45 minutes again yesterday. May try directing the air up near the fuel rail. That aluminum cover on top of the engine seems to be the hottest area of any under the hood.

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OK I'll go back and fix it! Hey at least I drew power from the right place.(Tower light breaker) I was going to just jump it from the other blower switch without the help from this thread. I knew both blower motors didn't draw more than the 1 circuit could handle.

By the way, extra air didn't seem to help with Vapor Lock. Stuck me floating for 45 minutes again yesterday. May try directing the air up near the fuel rail. That aluminum cover on top of the engine seems to be the hottest area of any under the hood.

Are you SURE it's vapor lock? You vented the fuel rail and didn't get liquid? I had similar symptoms on a 2006 and it turned out to be something entirely different....

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OK I'll go back and fix it! Hey at least I drew power from the right place.(Tower light breaker) I was going to just jump it from the other blower switch without the help from this thread. I knew both blower motors didn't draw more than the 1 circuit could handle.

By the way, extra air didn't seem to help with Vapor Lock. Stuck me floating for 45 minutes again yesterday. May try directing the air up near the fuel rail. That aluminum cover on top of the engine seems to be the hottest area of any under the hood.

Probably be a good idea.....otherwise you would be grounding two circuits through one wire and could exceed that amp carrying ability of that wire.

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Are you SURE it's vapor lock? You vented the fuel rail and didn't get liquid? I had similar symptoms on a 2006 and it turned out to be something entirely different....

Shawndoggy please see my new Vapor lock thread and let me know what you found.

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