Overheating after changing impeller

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

I've searched a number of threads on the forum....but I might have something different going on????

07 Vride with 320 LCR (w/ 320 hrs). Dealer winterized it last fall. I ran it 3 wks ago (in the lake) just to get it warm and then pulled it, changed the oil, and put it back in.

If I remember correctly, the engine did get up to temp and stayed there....then it went straight to the boat lift.

Then, tonight I pulled the impeller, and replaced it the same way I have others in the past (except before I did it on the trailer, this time it was on the hoist).

Restarted and the engine reached 205 before I shut it down. I pulled the impeller again to check and everything looked good, clean, no issue.

Port side exhaust manifold was hotter (hot to touch but wouldn't burn skin) than starboard (warm to touch)....

One note, when I first started it up after changing the impeller, I had it on the hoist but sitting in the water....when I first started it up though, it might not have been completely submerged-it was very close to the surface....I quickly lowered the hoist until the boat was just about floating....could I have sucked in some air bubbles and caused this? How to fix it? drop the boat until it's floating and retry?

I did not check the thermostat and it was impossible to see if any water was coming out of the exhaust since it was submerged.

Any input as to next steps (before checking the impeller)?

thank you

[eyepeeler]

Yes, always have the boat fully floating when you start it as that will put water pressure in to your raw water intake and help to prime the raw water pump. Also, make sure the cover on your raw water pump in on snugly or it will suck air at that point.

[BuFootin]

float your boat, and give it some RPM's. Put your hand on the impeller pump cover plate and it should be cold. It gets pretty warm if there is no water running through it because the pump has not primed.

[TheHardWay]

If the above suggestions don't yield any results, consider this.

Was the old impeller missing any pieces of the fins? You may want to check the hoses for any fragments. They will collect at the transmission cooler and prevent normal water flow.

The next step would be to check you t-stat.

[Lieutenant Dan]

Another thing to consider....I had a new impeller fail after several hours....the metal hub separated from the rubber outer part and therefore the hub spun while the fins remained stationary. However, if you looked at the impeller, it appeared perfectly healthy!

Edited May 10, 2011 by Lieutenant Dan

[waterskiing101]

I had a similar situation happen to me. My boat was getting hot. Changed the impeller and the t-stat and it still was getting hot. What ended up happening was the hose on the In-side of the impeller housing got bumped just enough(it looked like the hose was all the way on) that the impeller was sucking air and not creating enough suction to pull water. So you might check your hose on that side to make sure you didn't bump it.

Edited May 10, 2011 by waterskiing101

[barefootpaul]

I have found that sometimes I need a throttle bump to get the water flowing after things have dried up.

[gmab]

I recently changed my impeller and the boat immediately overheated to 203. I put the old impeller (looked to be in good condition with no broken fins) back in and it worked fine with temp at 160.

Since I was trying to get on the water that day I didn't diagnose the reason. Also, I was putting in a blue Globe impeller whereas the one I pulled was black.

[CedarLakeSkier]

If you haven't checked the impeller since the "starting on the lift" incident, you may want to check it.

Usually the boat is low enough in the water that the impeller is at or below the water line so it can prime itself. If you were above this and the temp got high, it's possible that new impeller you put in there is toast (it may have been running dry)

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

Thank you all for the suggestions.

CedarLakeSkier,

I did check the impeller after running it up to 205 and it still looked like new, I'm thinking it must have been getting some water (it wasn't dry when I checked it but the housing also didn't have as much water leak out as the 1st time I pulled the cover).

RedRum,

The previous impeller was still in great condition (as were the previous ones I've replaced), but I do run late into the fall.....maybe I sucked up some leaf fragments or other debris (it is shallow near us).

I've never checked the V-Drive screen, actually didn't know it existed until doing my bucrew research yesterday. Can someone clue me in as to where I could find this?

I'll first check that and double check the hose connections, then drop the boat so that it's floating, start it up and give it some rpms....I'll also get a thermostat just in case (I'll need one eventually anyway-hopefully it's somewhat readily accessible, haven't done my research on that one yet).

[ADDICTED2WAKE]

oh and just 2 more comments...

1-I did check the raw water inlet valve and it was open

2-As the temp was increasing (180-200) there was a mild squeel developing...

Does #2 help with any potential diagnosis????

(thinking not)

I'll see what I can come up with one of these days when I can get out of work at a respectable time...

[TheHardWay]

First, forgive me Malibu Crew for posting a link to a MOOMBA website

This is the first website that I could find with some good picture.

Anyway, Addicted, you have a strainer similar to this on your boat. My buddy has a Supra Sunsport 24V with one of these deals on it. At some point his brother got the boat into some muck, and it filled his strainer up. I believe it should be mounted somewhere near the v-drive if you have one.

The mild squeal could have been coming from the impeller creating friction on the pump housing due to a lack of water to lubricate it.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=10725

Edited May 11, 2011 by RedRum

[WakesetterE]

Also consider this: Was the impellor you replace the correct size? There are two very similiar impellors and one is slightly smaller than the other one. It may not be possible for all to tell the differance by eye. Consider dropping your old one in to see if you still have the issue. Could be a defective correct impellor also.

Product Number: 09-812B

Outer Diameter: 2.25"

Inner Diameter:

Splines Width: 1.90"

Impeller Service Kit Johnson 09-1027B **RARE** F5 Pump Neoprene Impeller

Outer Diameter: 2.24"

Inner Diameter:

Splines Width: 1.24"

I suspect the seal on the cover got misaligned, inverted, or left off when you changed the impellor creating an air leak which is preventing the raw water pump from priming.

You did replace the raw water pump seal, right?

You can check both of these by pulling the pump cover and taking a close look with a hand mirror. Please let us know what you find!

[Coach Mike]

I recently changed my impeller and the boat immediately overheated to 203. I put the old impeller (looked to be in good condition with no broken fins) back in and it worked fine with temp at 160.

Since I was trying to get on the water that day I didn't diagnose the reason. Also, I was putting in a blue Globe impeller whereas the one I pulled was black.

I am having a similar experience lately as follows:

Question for you on the new Globe impeller: I’ve noticed that when I pull up from a run, it seems to run hotter than the old one did. I typically am at about 160F when running. With the old original impeller I would pull up and I might go up to 170F and then fairly quickly recover back to 160F. With the new Globe, that I put in a couple weeks ago, yesterday it went into the 190’s and then recovered back to 160F. This only takes about 30 seconds to a minute maybe, but when I see a number that high it seemed like a lifetime :o) That kind of scared me as it has never gone that high and I do watch it pretty closely. I haven't checked the lines for debris and I'll do that when I get home, but wondering if anyone had any thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike