Trailer Brakes

[hethj7]

My trailer only has a 4 pin harness and my understanding is if you have a 5 pin harness, the 5th pin will lock out the brakes when the tow vehicles is in reverse.

Is there a way to convert my trailer wiring to do the same, or would I have to buy a new brake actuator or more? It is a Dorsey trailer. I'm not sure of the brake actuator info, but could get it if needed.

[99response]

Unless you have disc brakes I wouldn't worry about it, the drums don't slow you down much in reverse.

-Chris

[REW]

Your break actuator will have to updated as well as the wireing. My guess is (since you are not wired for it) you don't have the required solonid and bypass tubbing on the actuator to make this work.

[hethj7]

Thanks. I was worried that may be the answer. My driveway has a slight incline to it, and I can definitely tell the trailer brakes are working against me when trying to back the boat into my driveway. On flat ground, I haven't noticed it much though.

Edited April 19, 2011 by hethj7

[ilovetrains]

my old boat was 4 pin as well, with trailer brakes. The actuator had a slot you could insert something (the safety chain hooks were designed to fit this) that would physically block the actuator from engaging. It was an Escort trailer (Bayliner) so I would imagine any nicer trailer would have the same function.

[Pistol Pete]

I've seen trailers that have a lever or, latch that you have to throw to get the brakes to not engage in reverse. Do you see anything like that near the trailer tongue/actuator?

[hethj7]

Yes, there is a lever that slides into place to lock them out in reverse, which I use. I was just hoping there was an easy way to wire my 4-pin harness so that it did it automatically when I put the truck in reverse. It is a new boat to me, and it's not like it takes me multiple tries to back it perfectly into its spot in my driveway, having to constantly get out and slide the lockout pin every time I reposition the trailer to back again . I'm sure the neighbors love the show

Edited April 19, 2011 by hethj7

[RTS]

Do you have any kids? A 3 year-old would work good. Train them to ride on the trailer near the actuator and re-insert the pin every time you pull forward. If no kids then make your wife do it...just tell her to keep her legs up.

Seriously, tape that lever in place when you are backing up your driveway. I tape my lockout in place every time I drop the boat off. I keep a roll of red electrical tape to use for this. I do this because the valet people use forklifts with a ball on the end of the forks to put the boat in and out of the warehouse and I don't want them fighting my disc brakes when they are backing the trailer up. The red tape catches my attention when I am hooking up, so I don't forget to remove the tape.

Depending on what your trailer set up looks like, a length of Velcro may do the trick, also.

Edited April 18, 2011 by RTS

[DONTW8]

I believe that the 5th pin is connected to the backup light circuit.

I am not certain that is the question you asked but, that is my understanding of the wiring.

Or wire it through your 7 pin vehicle adapter.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=7+pin+trailer+wiring&cp=5&pf=p&sclient=psy&site=&source=hp&rlz=1W1ADRA_en&aq=0&aqi=&aql=&oq=7+pin&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=c933f7452b4afda8

Edited April 19, 2011 by DONTW8

[hethj7]

DONTW8 - I think you are correct. But, my problem is my trailer harness is only 4 pin, which from the responses thus far, I gather that my current trailer brake system does not have the capability to be locked out from the vehicle. It sounds like I'd have to install a new brake actuator with a 5 pin harness on the trailer.

RTS - I have a 14 month old, so it sounds like by next summer with another birthday under her belt, my problems should be solved. My pin is permanent and slides in a slot to the lockout position on the trailer (photo attached). I don't think tape would keep it in place when I pull forward. However, another pin back there may do the trick. Once I get the backing into the driveway bit down, it won't be such a big deal.

[DONTW8]

I had trailer brakes on my 1972 Sea Ray (that I bought new, my first boat). As I recall I drilled a hole the full thickness of the 4" trailer tongue and I inserted a 5 inch long bolt all the way through the tongue to keep my actuator from locking the brakes.

You can study how your actuator works and possibly get your desired result by drilling holes and inserting a bolt.

[RTS]

DONTW8 - I think you are correct. But, my problem is my trailer harness is only 4 pin, which from the responses thus far, I gather that my current trailer brake system does not have the capability to be locked out from the vehicle. It sounds like I'd have to install a new brake actuator with a 5 pin harness on the trailer.

RTS - I have a 14 month old, so it sounds like by next summer with another birthday under her belt, my problems should be solved. My pin is permanent and slides in a slot to the lockout position on the trailer (photo attached). I don't think tape would keep it in place when I pull forward. However, another pin back there may do the trick. Once I get the backing into the driveway bit down, it won't be such a big deal.

Now that I see your hitch, I see that my method will not work like it does on my UFP hitch.

[REW]

You might be able to use a rubber bungie cord (lowes homedepot) and hook both ends onthe other side and loop the middle around the pin holding it down or up.

other wise weld an extenson on the pin with a handel on it with an opposing handel, mount a saddel on the trailer and tell you kid he/she is ridding a horsey

[CoMtnBu]

That's at Atwood actuator. The knob there pivots down the keep the brakes from engaging. Once you put it down make sure it is latched in place, if it is done right it should stay there. I wouldn't worry about moving it everytime you pull forward, just let your vehicle brakes do their job.

Be sure you unlatch it before you use it again, trailer brakes are a good thing to have. I use a hair tie over the top to keep the knob up out of the way.

I believe Atwood makes a solenoid kit that locks the brakes out when in reverse.

[ilovetrains]

DONTW8 - I think you are correct. But, my problem is my trailer harness is only 4 pin, which from the responses thus far, I gather that my current trailer brake system does not have the capability to be locked out from the vehicle. It sounds like I'd have to install a new brake actuator with a 5 pin harness on the trailer.

RTS - I have a 14 month old, so it sounds like by next summer with another birthday under her belt, my problems should be solved. My pin is permanent and slides in a slot to the lockout position on the trailer (photo attached). I don't think tape would keep it in place when I pull forward. However, another pin back there may do the trick. Once I get the backing into the driveway bit down, it won't be such a big deal.

What brand trailer is that?

I would imagine Croft can install a new actuator with the electric lockout. All it is is solenoid that is fired when you engage reverse that slides the pin in place for you.

What part of KC are you in? Croft has a couple locations and they do just about everything trailer wise. Built a sailboat trailer with electric brakes for a buddy...still not sure why he wanted electric brakes on a boat trailer.

[99response]

Where I used to keep my boats had a pretty decent hill for a driveway, I've always had drum brakes and never even bothered to lock them out going up the hill.

Skip the jumping in and out of the vehicle and give it a little more gas in reverse and you'll never know the difference - unless you have disc brakes of course.

[hethj7]

That's at Atwood actuator. The knob there pivots down the keep the brakes from engaging. Once you put it down make sure it is latched in place, if it is done right it should stay there. I wouldn't worry about moving it everytime you pull forward, just let your vehicle brakes do their job.

It does stay in place as long as I'm backing, but pops out once I pull forward. So, I end up hopping out and locking it again if I pulled forward to reposition the trailer.

What brand trailer is that?

I would imagine Croft can install a new actuator with the electric lockout. All it is is solenoid that is fired when you engage reverse that slides the pin in place for you.

What part of KC are you in? Croft has a couple locations and they do just about everything trailer wise. Built a sailboat trailer with electric brakes for a buddy...still not sure why he wanted electric brakes on a boat trailer.

It is a Dorsey Trailer. This isn't really that high on my to do list, but if I ever decide to tackle it, I'll check into Croft. I'm in the northland, near Gladstone but still in KC city limits.

Where I used to keep my boats had a pretty decent hill for a driveway, I've always had drum brakes and never even bothered to lock them out going up the hill.

Skip the jumping in and out of the vehicle and give it a little more gas in reverse and you'll never know the difference - unless you have disc brakes of course.

The brakes hold enough that I can tell the difference when backing. I'd rather take the time to get out than put the extra wear and tear on the brakes and my drivetrain, althought it may not matter in the long term.