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Baddog

Trailer Wheel Bearings

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Baddog

When changing my second blowout of the season I noticed that if I wiggle the wheel (yes, the nuts are all appropriately tight) it actually wiggles. Some little voice in my head says this shouldn't be so. However, both wheels do it about the same amount.

Is this normal? Or is it time to tighten the hub nut? How tight is too tight? I'm talking about my trailer wheels here, not what you're thinking.

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kbtheboz

If perfectly adjusted, the tapered bearings would not have any "wiggle", but since the keyway or drilled hole that locks the adjustment nut is usually at 90 degree spacing, you can't get it perfect. Usually you have a little wiggle when they are set as close as possible, and that is just fine. I would say it is more of a art than a science when it comes to adjusting whell bearings. Too tight and they will run hot. It is better to have a little wiggle than too tight. The tapered wheel bearings will sort of self align the wheels.

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OldHickory

I haven't looked at trailer wheel nuts in a long time but they use to use a nut called a castle nut that had 8 -12 positions for the cotter pin. I know that this type of nut is also used on the wheels of automobiles. Tighten the nut until no play (wiggle) is found and then spin the wheel. If it does not spin freely then back the nut off until will.

Hope this helps,

OldHickory

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DABS
I haven't looked at trailer wheel nuts in a long time but they use to use a nut called a castle nut that had 8 -12 positions for the cotter pin. I know that this type of nut is also used on the wheels of automobiles. Tighten the nut until no play (wiggle) is found and then spin the wheel. If it does not spin freely then back the nut off until will.

Hope this helps,

OldHickory

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LS-One

Not meaning to highjack, but wheel bearings have come a long way. I remember back in 60's my Dad would have to repack the bearings by hand about every five trips to the lake.

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DABS

If you have a UFP product, there is a retainer that covers the spindle nut. This retainer has several positions to choose from. Simply remove the cotter pin, then the retainer, then tighten the nut as tight as you can with your HANDS. Then reposition the retainer until the cotter pin lines back up. The retainer has several positions to choose from. This is to prevent overtorque which will cause bearing failure, or undertorque which will do the same. An eight of an inch movement at the top of the tire is normal. More info available at www.ufpnet.com.

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D-GOOSE

Service and maintenance

http://www.ufpnet.com/

Actuators | Axles | Couplers | Disc Brakes | Suspension

Hub oil level

http://store.yahoo.net/trucks-r-us/checoilhub.htm

Trailer parts

Redneck Trailer Supplies

Waymire Distribution

http://shop.easternmarine.com/

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php

Local places to check for parts.

Your local trailer shops.

Napa. They have a huge book just for boat and trailers.

Carquest. Has a book for trailer parts and boat parts.

Trailer manufactures

www.championtrailers.com

Extreme Trailers

http://www.eagletrailer.com/

http://www.boatmatetrailers.com/PageOneindex.html

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Baddog

Thanks for the good list of resources.

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D-GOOSE

No problem I'm still waiting for Dude to put it in the tech how to area. Tease.gif

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