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Chia

winterizing

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Chia

filled the tank and added stabilizer, hooked up the fake a lake and warmed up the engine, fogged the engine, drained the oil overnight. drained the block. Today was add the oil and continue with winterizing.

Now I wonder? if I have to run the engine after I add the oil and change the filter. Would prefer not to but will if I have to.

thanks

Edited by Cervelo

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billb

No, you don't need to re-fire the engine after changing the oil. You didn't mention it, but don't forget to remove the water drain plugs and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds.

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Chia
No, you don't need to re-fire the engine after changing the oil.  You didn't mention it, but don't forget to remove the water drain plugs and disconnect the hose that runs between the manifolds.

thanks, yeah I have several lists to follow on winterizing, trust me, I will not be taking any shortcuts.

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dlb

You should be fine. Just remember to check the oil level after you fire it up for the first time in the spring.

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vette-ski

You should run the engine after you change to get the good oil in the bearings and on the cylinder walls. I guess you don't have to, but it sorta defeats the purpose of changing it in the fall. Could just wait until spring. But it shouldn't cause any major problems if you have kept the oil changed regularly.

Edited by vette-ski

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Chia

hmmm, 2 - don't need to. 1 - should do it. maybe i need a poll?

the fogging oil should be sticking to the cylinder walls, but should i be concerned about the bearings?

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jgouveia3

i personally would run it. the order should be warm it up, change the oil, fire it up, then fog...

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VinRLX

New oil without the contaminants is the advantage of the change. Even if you change it out a few engine hours ahead of time. Circulation is a good thing.

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vette-ski

Well, I think the concern here is that the block is already drained and running it on water would fill the block again and make more work. So I'm wondering how long is too long to run an engine w/o water. IMO, pull the impeller out of the housing (which you may have already done), and run it for about 30-45 seconds dry, and fog again. It won't overheat in that amount of time, and you'll get some good oil spread around. If you want to let it cool off, and do it again, even better. But other than running the impeller dry, you won't hurt the engine as long as the temp guage doesn't show hot. But that's just my opinion.

Yeah, I know, popping the impeller isn't easy. I have the same boat you have.

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Useless_Male
Well, I think the concern here is that the block is already drained and running it on water would fill the block again and make more work.  So I'm wondering how long is too long to run an engine w/o water.  IMO, pull the impeller out of the housing (which you may have already done), and run it for about 30-45 seconds dry, and fog again.  It won't overheat in that amount of time, and you'll get some good oil spread around.  If you want to let it cool off, and do it again, even better.  But other than running the impeller dry, you won't hurt the engine as long as the temp guage doesn't show hot.  But that's just my opinion. 

Yeah, I know, popping the impeller isn't easy.  I have the same boat you have.

I'm with this suggestion. I watched them do my winterize at Tommies this year (I was having some warrenty work done so had them winterize at the same time) and they leave the impeller off and start for a few seconds dry after the oil change.

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HRemington

I'm going to assume the impeller is already out for the winter, I wouldn't leave it in all squashed over the winter, I'd leave it out and put the new one in come spring. I would not run it dry with the impeller in. That said. it would be fine to run the engine for long enough to circulate the fresh oil well. The engine runs dry until it warms up anyway...

...but next year, use the order jg3 said.

Edited by HRemington

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Chia
Well, I think the concern here is that the block is already drained and running it on water would fill the block again and make more work.  So I'm wondering how long is too long to run an engine w/o water.  IMO, pull the impeller out of the housing (which you may have already done), and run it for about 30-45 seconds dry, and fog again.  It won't overheat in that amount of time, and you'll get some good oil spread around.  If you want to let it cool off, and do it again, even better.  But other than running the impeller dry, you won't hurt the engine as long as the temp guage doesn't show hot.  But that's just my opinion. 

Yeah, I know, popping the impeller isn't easy.  I have the same boat you have.

I'm going to assume the impeller is already out for the winter, I wouldn't leave it in all squashed over the winter, I'd leave it out and put the new one in come spring. I would not run it dry with the impeller in.  That said. it would be fine to run the engine for long enough to circulate the fresh oil well.  The engine runs dry until it warms up anyway...

...but next year, use the order jg3 said.

Done...and Done! because it sounds like good advice. I know I screwed up the order but its my first time doing it. I am going to leave the impeller out for the winter. thanks for the advice.

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Baddog

One thing on the oil: After I change it I run the engine before draining the water, but I still don't run it long. I only put in 4-1/2 quarts and leave it purposely low over the winter. THEN, in the spring I wait until it is in the water to bring the oil level up to spec. I have learned there is a distinct difference in the level between on the trailer in my driveway and in the water. Since I don't pull too many skiers in driveway, I like to have the oil correct in the boat's natural habitat.

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