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Oil Removal


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1987 Malibu Skier. 350 w/dip stick tube on drivers / starboard side. Dip stick handle is near the front of the motor / by valve cover. Dip stick tube makes two 90 degree turns and enters the block about mid starter. . . I see no drain tube for the oil (My 1974 Nautique w/351W has a tube from the pan that can easily be uncapped and have the oil drain through the bilge hole in to a catch pan. . . very easly / slick. Looks like the Malibu needs to have a tube sent down the dip stick tube, snaked around the two 90 degree turns, approximately 30" in total length to hit the bottom of the pan. Seems like a pain. Is this how most of you change your oil in your Chev equipped Malibu's?

Since I am removing the motor for repair . . is there a slick fix to making the oil draining easier (and more complete)?

Thanks all.

Kevin

Lake Stevens, WA

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  • Pistol Pete

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I would say the same thing as Pistol Pete. Typically, you can't install these with the motor in the boat. I would say while you have it out, install it, and you should be good to go. My 351 had that same set up and it worked amazing and made changing the oil a breeze. Good luck!Thumbup.gif

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Like everyone says, install the drain hose. For those who won't be pulling their motor and can't do this, if your dip stick tube has a wide threaded top on it where the stick goes in, then the oil is meant to be sucked out the dip stick tube. The threaded piece is where you attach a hose to your suction pump. Mercruiser ran those tubes all the way to the bottom of the oil pan so you don't need to snake another tube down it. Eventually Malibu realized sucking oil out via dipstick was not as good as draining so they started installing the drain hose as standard equipment.

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Like everyone says, install the drain hose. For those who won't be pulling their motor and can't do this, if your dip stick tube has a wide threaded top on it where the stick goes in, then the oil is meant to be sucked out the dip stick tube. The threaded piece is where you attach a hose to your suction pump. Mercruiser ran those tubes all the way to the bottom of the oil pan so you don't need to snake another tube down it. Eventually Malibu realized sucking oil out via dipstick was not as good as draining so they started installing the drain hose as standard equipment.

agreed... drawing oil out of the dipstick tube is a slow process.

Drain tube at the bottom of the pan is the best option if there is enough clearance.

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If you have the motor out I would add a drain line for sure, if not get one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200008374_200008374

I turn mine on and sit back, I dont know how much time goes by but I usually get about 3/4 of a pint of Long Trail down before its done. I'm usually not in a hurry though...

:beer:

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I was thinking of getting a MityVac fluid extractor to do my first oil change, transmission fluid change, and v-drive oil change. (I've never done any of this before). However, I realize that I have a QuickDrain on my oil pan. Should I just pull the drain hose through the bilge plug and let gravity do the work or do I need to use the extractor? I have read on here that it can be quite slow. If I need to use the extractor, should I put the tube down the dipstick or can I attach it to the drain hose? What fitting would I need to attach it to the drain hose?

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I was thinking of getting a MityVac fluid extractor to do my first oil change, transmission fluid change, and v-drive oil change. (I've never done any of this before). However, I realize that I have a QuickDrain on my oil pan. Should I just pull the drain hose through the bilge plug and let gravity do the work or do I need to use the extractor? I have read on here that it can be quite slow. If I need to use the extractor, should I put the tube down the dipstick or can I attach it to the drain hose? What fitting would I need to attach it to the drain hose?

Yes as to draining through plug. It's really easy and you cna get more out. If the engine is warm shouldn't take more than 10-15 mins to drain. If it's not, althogh not ideal, let it drain overnight. I like running it through the plug because it keeps all sources of oil spill outside the boat.

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I was thinking of getting a MityVac fluid extractor to do my first oil change, transmission fluid change, and v-drive oil change. (I've never done any of this before). However, I realize that I have a QuickDrain on my oil pan. Should I just pull the drain hose through the bilge plug and let gravity do the work or do I need to use the extractor? I have read on here that it can be quite slow. If I need to use the extractor, should I put the tube down the dipstick or can I attach it to the drain hose? What fitting would I need to attach it to the drain hose?

Get the extractor. It'll make quick work of changing the tranny fluid. It also makes quick work

of changing the oil. I thread the extractor tubing maybe 16-20 inces or so down into the the hose

from the oil pan, give it a couple of pumps, and let it do its thing. Very easy. Rarely even a

drop of oil is spilled, but I keep one of those oil-absorbing pads (from West Marine) handy just

to make sure, holding it underneath the extractor tubing as I withdraw it from the hose from the oil

pan [once all the oil has been vacuumed].

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Yes as to draining through plug. It's really easy and you cna get more out. If the engine is warm shouldn't take more than 10-15 mins to drain. If it's not, althogh not ideal, let it drain overnight. I like running it through the plug because it keeps all sources of oil spill outside the boat.

I suck the oil out easy in 10 mins, Plus you need one for Tranny fluid... Those Extractors rule, bleeding brakes etc...

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About to pull engine. I can slip about 4 pieces of paper between the hull and the oil pan plug. No room there for any type of hose. . . . so unless there is a different option . . . like cutting a new hole on the side of the pan (but near the bottom) I think I will need to go with an extractor. I welcome any other suggestions, as I don't want to miss an opportunity while the engine is out.

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... If I need to use the extractor, should I put the tube down the dipstick or can I attach it to the drain hose? What fitting would I need to attach it to the drain hose?

Don't put it down the dipstick. Like I said before, there is a threaded fitting on the top of the tube to attach your hose if you want to go that way. I think the fitting on the dip stick tube is for a garden hose thread, but it's been a while since I've done it that way. If you attach to the drain hose and don't want to use gravity, I believe the fitting is 1/8" female npt.

You will need to stick a tube down to the bottom of the transmission. On the BorgWarners you can drain into the bilge by removing the lowest fitting which also has a screen filter in it for you to clean. Its a PITA so better to suction out as much as you can first.

If you're worried about time, Levi900 has the best solution - good VT craft beer... :thumbup:

Frankly by the time you setup your extractor, the oil will be almost drained by gravity if it's warm.

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About to pull engine. I can slip about 4 pieces of paper between the hull and the oil pan plug. No room there for any type of hose. . . . so unless there is a different option . . . like cutting a new hole on the side of the pan (but near the bottom) I think I will need to go with an extractor. I welcome any other suggestions, as I don't want to miss an opportunity while the engine is out.

If you can really only fit 4 pieces of paper between the drain plug or any part of the oil pan and the bottom of the boat then you have another problem. Maybe your stringers have rotted and the motor settled or the hull is not supported evenly on your trailer. The hull is designed to be able to flex up and down a little under the motor when you hit large waves without hitting the bottom of your oil pan and transmission.
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If you can really only fit 4 pieces of paper between the drain plug or any part of the oil pan and the bottom of the boat then you have another problem. Maybe your stringers have rotted and the motor settled or the hull is not supported evenly on your trailer. The hull is designed to be able to flex up and down a little under the motor when you hit large waves without hitting the bottom of your oil pan and transmission.

Stringers are rock solid, as is the floor. Spent considerable amount of time investigating this area before buying the basket case. Seemed tight to me as well thou. I am referring jus to the drain plug itself, as it is the lowest point. I plan to clean out the bilge area this week, and I will pay particular attention to looking for any rub marks near the drain plug.

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Stringers are rock solid, as is the floor. Spent considerable amount of time investigating this area before buying the basket case. Seemed tight to me as well thou. I am referring jus to the drain plug itself, as it is the lowest point. I plan to clean out the bilge area this week, and I will pay particular attention to looking for any rub marks near the drain plug.

Mine is wicked tight, I would say its a good 1/4 inch though. Way more than 4 papers, but I could never put any type of drain fitting on it.

If you want I can snap a pic tonight.

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Don't put it down the dipstick. Like I said before, there is a threaded fitting on the top of the tube to attach your hose if you want to go that way. I think the fitting on the dip stick tube is for a garden hose thread, but it's been a while since I've done it that way. If you attach to the drain hose and don't want to use gravity, I believe the fitting is 1/8" female npt.

You will need to stick a tube down to the bottom of the transmission. On the BorgWarners you can drain into the bilge by removing the lowest fitting which also has a screen filter in it for you to clean. Its a PITA so better to suction out as much as you can first.

If you're worried about time, Levi900 has the best solution - good VT craft beer... :thumbup:

Frankly by the time you setup your extractor, the oil will be almost drained by gravity if it's warm.

The biggest thing I hate about traveling is no good Coffee (GMCR) and no good Beer (Tons of good Microbrews). Reason number 1000 that I typically don't leave VT!

:rofl:

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Mine is wicked tight, I would say its a good 1/4 inch though. Way more than 4 papers, but I could never put any type of drain fitting on it.

If you want I can snap a pic tonight.

Yeah I remember my Skier was super tight too. I couldn't get my finger between the plug and the hull. The stringers on that boat are also rock solid. I bought a MityVac in a hurry!

Haven't checked clearance on the Sunsetter yet. I would be it's the same. I'd be pleased if it had more clearance, but I really doubt it.

Edited by martinarcher
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If you have the motor out I would add a drain line for sure, if not get one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200008374_200008374

I turn mine on and sit back, I dont know how much time goes by but I usually get about 3/4 of a pint of Long Trail down before its done. I'm usually not in a hurry though...

:beer:

I talked to "Tom" at MityVac . . says that he does not have an adaptor that will screw onto the treads on the dipstick tube (to use the dipstick tube as a straw). Must Jam one of the MityVac "straws" all the way down the dipstick tube. He doubted that the included "straws" would make the two 90 degree bends I have . . . .

So . . . does Tom not know what he is talking about (you found a MityVac that has the adaptor that will screw onto the dipstick tube), did you make an adaptor or are you using the included MityVac straws?

I have a Chev 350/5.7 . . 1987.

Thanks.

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I talked to "Tom" at MityVac . . says that he does not have an adaptor that will screw onto the treads on the dipstick tube (to use the dipstick tube as a straw). Must Jam one of the MityVac "straws" all the way down the dipstick tube. He doubted that the included "straws" would make the two 90 degree bends I have . . . .

So . . . does Tom not know what he is talking about (you found a MityVac that has the adaptor that will screw onto the dipstick tube), did you make an adaptor or are you using the included MityVac straws?

I have a Chev 350/5.7 . . 1987.

Thanks.

Just push harder. LOL.gif The MityVac "straw" that came with mine easily made it to the bottom of the pan and pulled the oil out. No, I don't have a screw in adapter. My dipstick tube doesn't even have threads on it.

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Just push harder. LOL.gif The MityVac "straw" that came with mine easily made it to the bottom of the pan and pulled the oil out. No, I don't have a screw in adapter. My dipstick tube doesn't even have threads on it.

:plus1: I can hear mine hit the bottom of the oil pan

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Just push harder. LOL.gif The MityVac "straw" that came with mine easily made it to the bottom of the pan and pulled the oil out. No, I don't have a screw in adapter. My dipstick tube doesn't even have threads on it.

I usually do it thru the dipstick tube & then thru the drain hose. The straw goes in there just as easily & I'm positive I got it all. :rockon:

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Am I safe to assume your dip stick tube is on the starbord side of the engine, near the front of the valve cover . . it takes two 90 degree turns to enter the block near the middle of the starter. . . Strange they would put the treads on the end of the dip stick, if no one uses it.

I appreciate the advice. I don't think I want to have to have compressed air to run the extractor thou . . . any issues with the hand pump version of the MityVac?

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