1987 Skier Engine / Trans Removal - What else

[kkosche]

Got a 1987 Malibu Skier with a block that was left to freeze. Cracks along water jacket below heads, as well as within the oil valley, under the intake manifold.

Got the engine / trans ready to pull. All that is left to do is remove the four mounting nuts and four coupler bolts. Questions:

1. I assume I remove the four bolts of the coupler and the coupler will slide rearward away from the trans, allowing me to lift the motor / trans straight up and out of the boat. Please confirm that this is the best location to separate the trans from the drive shaft.

2. While I have the engine / trans out (I am replacing with a new marine long block). . . is there anything else I should do to the drive shaft area while I have the trans separated? Seals? I just don't want to "wish I would have done X, Y, Z while the motor was out". Any guidance here would be very much appreciated.

3. Any other cautions or guidance with respect to this project? I have swapped several engines in cars over the years . . but this is the first boat. Got to love the access to work on these things. Feeling spoiled!

Thanks crew!

Kevin

Lake Stevens, WA

[BuFootin]

Got a 1987 Malibu Skier with a block that was left to freeze. Cracks along water jacket below heads, as well as within the oil valley, under the intake manifold.

Got the engine / trans ready to pull. All that is left to do is remove the four mounting nuts and four coupler bolts. Questions:

1. I assume I remove the four bolts of the coupler and the coupler will slide rearward away from the trans, allowing me to lift the motor / trans straight up and out of the boat. Please confirm that this is the best location to separate the trans from the drive shaft.

2. While I have the engine / trans out (I am replacing with a new marine long block). . . is there anything else I should do to the drive shaft area while I have the trans separated? Seals? I just don't want to "wish I would have done X, Y, Z while the motor was out". Any guidance here would be very much appreciated.

3. Any other cautions or guidance with respect to this project? I have swapped several engines in cars over the years . . but this is the first boat. Got to love the access to work on these things. Feeling spoiled!

Thanks crew!

Kevin

Lake Stevens, WA

1. yes, remove the four bolts and you can remove the shaft from the trans.

2. it might be wise to check/replace the strut bushing. These do wear out over time and with the a classic like yours it might be time.

Good luck with the project.

[martinarcher]

Yep. Separate the coupling like shown below. I would agree, while the engine is out I would pull the shaft and replace the strut bushing. You could also have a machine shop check the drive shaft while it's out to make sure it's nice and straight. While you have the shaft out you can easily repack the drive shaft stuffing too. Good to see someone wanting to do the job right while it's all apart. Good man.

Edited September 7, 2010 by martinarcher

[kkosche]

Yep. Separate the coupling like shown below. I would agree, while the engine is out I would pull the shaft and replace the strut bushing. You could also have a machine shop check the drive shaft while it's out to make sure it's nice and straight. While you have the shaft out you can easily repack the drive shaft stuffing too. Good to see someone wanting to do the job right while it's all apart. Good man.

I assume if I am going to remove the shaft, I should pull the prop while the shaft is still connected to the seized motor, correct? There must be puller to pull the prop from the shaft?

Once the prop is removed, I assume the drive shaft pulls back through to the inside of the boat . . . I got the motor manual, but no "boat shop manual" that shows how the drive line, post trans, goes together.

Thanks so much for the help.

[martinarcher]

I assume if I am going to remove the shaft, I should pull the prop while the shaft is still connected to the seized motor, correct? There must be puller to pull the prop from the shaft?

Once the prop is removed, I assume the drive shaft pulls back through to the inside of the boat . . . I got the motor manual, but no "boat shop manual" that shows how the drive line, post trans, goes together.

Thanks so much for the help.

You are correct. Pull the prop with one of these. After the prop is off I think it would be fairly easy to get the shaft out from the inside of the boat. Most people don't pull the engine so they have to pull the rudder and then pull it out the bottom, but I would think it would be just as easy to pull it through the top.

Good luck!

[Woodski]

I would certainly replace the packing or seal and while at it the rudder bushings as well. Don't forget, when the coupling is separated from the transmission, there will be additional load on the bottom side of the seal from the lack of support at the coupling, so if the seal is fine now, it may not be when you put it back together, so at a mimimum, prop the coupling back to neutral load when the engine is out. The newer rubber seal is also a very nice addition to the system, along with the vesconite rudder bushings, if you want to upgrade to newer style componentry. OJ carries both, along with SkiDim.

Edited September 7, 2010 by Woodski

[kkosche]

I would certainly replace the packing or seal and while at it the rudder bushings as well. Don't forget, when the coupling is separated from the transmission, there will be additional load on the bottom side of the seal from the lack of support at the coupling, so if the seal is fine now, it may not be when you put it back together, so at a mimimum, prop the coupling back to neutral load when the engine is out. The newer rubber seal is also a very nice addition to the system, along with the vesconite rudder bushings, if you want to upgrade to newer style componentry. OJ carries both, along with SkiDim.

I ordered prop puller. Thank you.

Are there any online exploded diagrams of how the drive shaft, packing, etc comes apart . . and more importantly how it goes back together? Or a manual I can order? Or am I making a bigger deal out of all this than needed.

[kkosche]

Removed Engine from boat today. No drama. Cherry Picker worked just fine.

Having difficulty separating engine from trans. Removed tin flywheel cover, all bolts around bell housing (including one behind cover plate) . . can get about 3/4" of a gap, but won't slide out the rest of the way. Consulted manual, looks like it should go. Engine is supported by cherry picker, floor jack under trans, a person on each side of trans with screw drivers working bell housing loose, rocking trans from mounting points. Just won't come.

Guidance / tips? Am I missing something?

[kkosche]

Ended up working the bell housing back and forth, gently with a pry bar . . . and ka-clunk it came loose. Got Engine on stand, pulled heads. Calendars were very rust . . . now trying free motor so I can remove crank.

[martinarcher]

Sweet. Glad you got it out OK. What is going back in? 383? I assume the block on this one is pretty much gone of it was left to freeze.

Any power upgrades while the motor is out (aluminum heads/intake/exhaust). Good luck and keep us posted on progress. I love projects.

[kkosche]

Sweet. Glad you got it out OK. What is going back in? 383? I assume the block on this one is pretty much gone of it was left to freeze.

Any power upgrades while the motor is out (aluminum heads/intake/exhaust). Good luck and keep us posted on progress. I love projects.

Looks like the crank and rods might be salvageable if I can get the pistons to move so I can remove the crank / pistons. Frozen solid at this point. Saturated both tops and bottom of pistons with penetrating oil and going to go at it with a 2X4 and a 2 pound sledge later this week.

Aluminum heads and marine applications make me a bit jittery. Only upgrade I went with was a roller cam, as I would like to not worry about our ever increasing eco-friendly engine oils and the reduction in graphites , etc. Target for the entire build (including initial acquisition price) is $4500. Had to redo two seat cushions, ordered long block, etc. I should come close to the number (I hope). Then I got to decide to either keep it (and sell my '74 Nautique and '01 Seadoo Challanger) or flip it.

If I could figure out how to post pictures (I think I am still too much of a newbe to be allow to) . . . I could post the progress.

[martinarcher]

Looks like the crank and rods might be salvageable if I can get the pistons to move so I can remove the crank / pistons. Frozen solid at this point. Saturated both tops and bottom of pistons with penetrating oil and going to go at it with a 2X4 and a 2 pound sledge later this week.

Aluminum heads and marine applications make me a bit jittery. Only upgrade I went with was a roller cam, as I would like to not worry about our ever increasing eco-friendly engine oils and the reduction in graphites , etc. Target for the entire build (including initial acquisition price) is $4500. Had to redo two seat cushions, ordered long block, etc. I should come close to the number (I hope). Then I got to decide to either keep it (and sell my '74 Nautique and '01 Seadoo Challanger) or flip it.

If I could figure out how to post pictures (I think I am still too much of a newbe to be allow to) . . . I could post the progress.

Good deal. Sounds like your well on your way to having her running again!

I vote sell the other two and keep the Malibu, but I'm biased.

Here's a good thread on how to post up pics if you don't have a paying member account. I'd love to see the progress.