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MalIbuCPA

Impeller replacement

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MalIbuCPA

1st off, i know this topic has been talked to death but I can't seem to weed out all the search responses to find what i need.

I have a 95 Response, obviously a DD

I bought the boat last year and never thought twice about the impeller. Never had any issues last year but everyone is saying they replace them every season or every other season.

Does anyone have step by step directions on replacing an impeller? I know where it is but that is about as far as it goes. There are bolts with nuts on them and there are bolts with no nuts. Am I suppose to take the belt off? I took the nuts off and all it did was loosen the whole unit. I put the nuts back on and then thought I would ask the question.

Any insight would be helpful, any picturse would be even better. Or even a link to a manual would be good. Or a link to a post would help too.

Thanks for your help in advance.

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Bill_AirJunky

There should be 4 brass screws holding the faceplate on. Remove them & pull the plate. Then just remove the impeller with a pair of needle nose.

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Ndawg12

should look similar to this.

untitled.bmp

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Brad B

step1)

Take the old one out

step2)

put the new one in

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tvano

a couple of tips for removing the old impeller:

  • squirt a little binding slime (wd-40, etc.) in and tap the key (after pulling the safety lanyard) for a two count to spread the lube.
  • two paint can openers (old style heavy bent wire) on opposite sides of the impeller often help the removal process.
  • during assembly don't fret which way the vanes get smushed (a professional term) and
  • finally, don't over tighten the 4 brass bolts! the spec on these is a few INCH pounds NOT ft.lbs.
  • don't forget to re-attach the lanyard.

have fun with it; it's supposed to be fun!

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RTS

And be sure to replace the gasket while you're at it.

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MalIbuCPA

should look similar to this.

OK this doesn't look anything like my setup.

the water in and out pipes are on the other side of the belt.

On the side of the stern rather than the bow of the boat

Thank you

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Pistol Pete

What motor do you have?

PCM?

Ford?

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Eric LX

If it is the same set up as the one on my 97 Response, I removed the clamps in the water intake fitting and the trans cooler. Then I removed the pump mounting bracket to the engine block and pulled the entire pump/bracket assembly out of the boat. The bolts that hold the housing together go completely through the housing and will come apart much easier on a work bench.

My engine is a Merc 350 Mag so if yours is the same, this should help.

PS, take the time to stick your finger in the trans cooler to check for debris. I figured that mine was clear since the impeller was in one piece but I was surprised to find quite a few pieces from a previous impeller that the person that serviced it never bothered to remove.

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MalIbuCPA

If it is the same set up as the one on my 97 Response, I removed the clamps in the water intake fitting and the trans cooler. Then I removed the pump mounting bracket to the engine block and pulled the entire pump/bracket assembly out of the boat. The bolts that hold the housing together go completely through the housing and will come apart much easier on a work bench.

My engine is a Merc 350 Mag so if yours is the same, this should help.

PS, take the time to stick your finger in the trans cooler to check for debris. I figured that mine was clear since the impeller was in one piece but I was surprised to find quite a few pieces from a previous impeller that the person that serviced it never bothered to remove.

OK thanks fo the help...

Now the trans cooler where is that located?

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Ndawg12

OK thanks fo the help...

Now the trans cooler where is that located?

should be on the exit side of the water pump and look like the attached pic. Pull the bottom hose and clean it out until it looks and feels like a nice honeycomb surface.

untitled.bmp

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Sunsetter95

I would recommend replacing the stock pump that is plastic, with a Jabsco brass pump. It is a good investment. Over the years I have had to replaced the housing on the stock pump three times (yes, I over tightened the bolts). The cost of the repair kits almost covered the cost of the Jabsco pump. $300 at River Marine.

Exact replacement for your stock pump

It uses the stock replacement impeller. I replace mine impeller every other season. I also, in my '95 DD, found it easier to just take the pump out and do the work on the bench. Check the trans cooler as stated above and before you re-install the pump, rotate it so that you know it turns freely. As freely as can be expected that is. Boot lube or some dish soap works well for this.

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Pistol Pete

should be on the exit side of the water pump and look like the attached pic.

Boy Nate,

You're getting a lot of use outta that PDF. :thumbup:

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Eric LX

On mine the trans cooler sits hoizonatal underneath the right side exhaust manifold. It will be the long tube that the hose from the back of your water pump fastens to.

One question in reference to changing to the Jabsco pump. I have read about two types of eom pumps. One has two end plates and a center section that the impeller fits in so the inpeller could be removed in either direction. The other is the same material but is only open on one end and is molded like a cup where the water intake and outgoing fittings are at the end of the cup. (this is the one that I have)

What is the difference with these and is the second an upgraded design from the first?

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Ndawg12

Boy Nate,

You're getting a lot of use outta that PDF. :thumbup:

I love that thing, it's my boat bible!! I learned alot about my boat by reading every word of that even though my engine is backwards :biggrin: . But I hate the method of running the hose into the intake hose. My pump would not prime doing that way and I almost overheated my engine doing it that way.

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Bill_AirJunky

But I hate the method of running the hose into the intake hose. My pump would not prime doing that way and I almost overheated my engine doing it that way.

So how are you doing it? This is my homemade adapter. Works like a charm, no climbing under the trailer & allows me to control the water flow from topside. :thumbup:

CIMG1610.jpg

realfakealake.jpg

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Pistol Pete

Maybe, maybe, maybe when I fly to Cabo San Lucas I'll get working on my winterization procedure.

I took lots of V-drive pics. when I did it last season and I've got lots of info. to add.

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Sunsetter95

On mine the trans cooler sits horizontal underneath the right side exhaust manifold. It will be the long tube that the hose from the back of your water pump fastens to.

One question in reference to changing to the Jabsco pump. I have read about two types of eom pumps. One has two end plates and a center section that the impeller fits in so the impeller could be removed in either direction. The other is the same material but is only open on one end and is molded like a cup where the water intake and outgoing fittings are at the end of the cup. (this is the one that I have)

What is the difference with these and is the second an upgraded design from the first?

My original was in two sections like yours. The Jabsco also has two sections but is made a little different. The hose connections are on the end plate and the main pump housing contains the impeller. I could not believe how little force it took to crack the old housings. That is why I put the money in the brass Jabsco pump. I attached a couple of pics.

My trans cooler is also horizontal on the other side of the engine. Very important to disconnect the hose and check for debris, even if your impeller that you are replacing is intact.

post-144-12680015061_thumb.jpg

post-144-126800152063_thumb.jpg

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Eric LX

My original was in two sections like yours. The Jabsco also has two sections but is made a little different. The hose connections are on the end plate and the main pump housing contains the impeller. I could not believe how little force it took to crack the old housings. That is why I put the money in the brass Jabsco pump. I attached a couple of pics.

My trans cooler is also horizontal on the other side of the engine. Very important to disconnect the hose and check for debris, even if your impeller that you are replacing is intact.

That's mine alright! It's good to know that they are that easy to damage. I will have to keep an eye open for a Jabsco.

Your right about always checking the screen. I had chunks of old impeller in there exen when the impeller in the housing was fine. The first clue that I had was my engine temp weent to 170 under power and then dropped to 150 at idle. I figured the the pieces were pulled up against the screen when the water flow was high thus restricting flow and then at idle the pieces floated around with the lower pressure of idle.

Thanks!

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Sunsetter95

That's mine alright! It's good to know that they are that easy to damage. I will have to keep an eye open for a Jabsco.

Your right about always checking the screen. I had chunks of old impeller in there exen when the impeller in the housing was fine. The first clue that I had was my engine temp weent to 170 under power and then dropped to 150 at idle. I figured the the pieces were pulled up against the screen when the water flow was high thus restricting flow and then at idle the pieces floated around with the lower pressure of idle.

Thanks!

In my above post, #12, you will find a link to purchase a Jabsco pump for a good price. I haven't found a better one yet, but one of our crew members may have a better source.

I have done a lot to my Sunsetter. If you have questions about what I did, or what I have done, please feel free to PM me. I will be glad to give you my $2.00 worth, not just the $0.02 worth.

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Ndawg12

So how are you doing it? This is my homemade adapter. Works like a charm, no climbing under the trailer & allows me to control the water flow from topside. :thumbup:

I put a T in the line between the pickup and before the vdrive entry. A fitting on top accepts a standard male water hose end and I just replace the plug when I'm done. $10 in parts at Lowe's.

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Woodski

As you assemble the Jabsco pump, remember that the rotation is Left Hand, so install the impeller correctly so the impeller "blades" are not backwards. Also make sure you install the inlet and outlet lines correctly. The case is marked for rotation and hose location, so use that as the guide.

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Bill_AirJunky

I put a T in the line between the pickup and before the vdrive entry. A fitting on top accepts a standard male water hose end and I just replace the plug when I'm done. $10 in parts at Lowe's.

So when you put the garden hose on your T, you will need to close the fresh water intake valve so water can only go into the v-drive & then engine. Once you turn on the water, it will take your engine a good 45 seconds to a minute (depending on water pressure) to fill up with water (you will be able to hear the water filling in the engine & then you will hear it spilling out the exhaust behind the boat.

As long as you have all your hoses on tight & plugs in, I don't think there is any way the engine can't prime. There is no place for the water to go.

As you assemble the Jabsco pump, remember that the rotation is Left Hand, so install the impeller correctly so the impeller "blades" are not backwards.

Regardless of which way you install the impeller blades, as soon as you crank the engine over, they will flip the right way. It's rubber on steel & the impeller is made to take it.

Interesting side note, any of you Globe users notice the quality & strength of the rubber versus the Johnson impellers?

Edited by Bill_AirJunky

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Eric LX

In my above post, #12, you will find a link to purchase a Jabsco pump for a good price. I haven't found a better one yet, but one of our crew members may have a better source.

I have done a lot to my Sunsetter. If you have questions about what I did, or what I have done, please feel free to PM me. I will be glad to give you my $2.00 worth, not just the $0.02 worth.

Thanks for the info on the Jabsco. I have the impeller in my old one and ready to install so after this season I might just replace the entire unit with the new one.

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Ndawg12

So when you put the garden hose on your T, you will need to close the fresh water intake valve so water can only go into the v-drive & then engine. Once you turn on the water, it will take your engine a good 45 seconds to a minute (depending on water pressure) to fill up with water (you will be able to hear the water filling in the engine & then you will hear it spilling out the exhaust behind the boat.

As long as you have all your hoses on tight & plugs in, I don't think there is any way the engine can't prime. There is no place for the water to go.

Bill, I think you're trying to give me some guidance, not sure. But after just sticking the garden hose into the intake hose and almost overheating the boat I came up with that contraption based on similar ideas I researched on here. It works well and I only use it 2 or 3 times a season for oil changes.

Hijack off.

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