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Pondking

Tightening the packing gland nut

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Pondking

Is there a special tool or just use 2 really big wrenches? Do I even need 2. Can I loosen the locking nut then tighten.

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RTS

No Special wrenches required, I use two pipe wrenches that I keep on the boat for that purpose. I think some people call them monkey wrenches. You will need two to do the job.

It's best to do it on the water. There is a very fine line between too tight (the packing gand will heat up when in gear, and too loose (excess water coming in), so it's nice to be on the water to "check your work.

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Malibudoc

go to ACE hardware and get a slip nut wrench from them for $9. I got one and works great!

Edited by Malibudoc

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Pistol Pete

This is what you want.

This subject comes up so many times, I have this webpage as one of my favorites.

Anyway, you'll need two. And, you'll need to adjust it on the water. You want 1 drip per 5 secs. IIRC. Adjust, run the boat for a min. and check the drip rate with the boat sitting still.

I just adjusted mine last weekend. I'll tell you a trick. Replace the wimpy 1/4-20 carriage bolt and wing nut and put in a 5/16-18 carriage bolt and wing nut. You will have to drill the round hole just a tad bit bigger but, the square under the head of the bigger bolt will fit the square slot in the wrench just fine. If you can find a wing nut that has a nylon insert (nylock) that'll be even better.

You can find these at any hardware store in the plumbing section. I think they're called flange wrenches. You'll need two to make your life easier and do the bolt upgrade I mentioned. They only cost ~$11.

Edited by Pistol Pete

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99response

Malibu actually makes two wrenches for this job now, maybe you can get them from your dealer

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Malibudoc

THISis the link to the ACE hardware wrench.

Don't get it from the DEALER. He will charge $30 for the same thing. They are always a RIP OFF

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D-GOOSE

Pete I think we need to put all are info on one post and have Justin put it as a stickie.

This time I won't put the left to tighten on the front and left to tighten >>>>>>>> Biggrin.gif

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LS-One

I bought a 1 7/8 inch open/box end wrench (this thing was huge) and I cut it in half leaving just enough on the open end side to get my whole hand on it.

Works excellent fits in the tight areas of a V-drive $38.00 for the wrench

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jklein

I use the wrench from Ace too. Works great. I put a little electrical tape on it so it doesn't mess up the finish on the nuts.

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VinRLX

I hate when the finish on my nuts gets messed up. Might have to try a little electrical tape. Crazy.gif

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mlange

Wow! And I thought I was anal.

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2 ThumbsUp
I hate when the finish on my nuts gets messed up. Might have to try a little electrical tape.  Crazy.gif

Try a little rubbing compound on those nuts and you'll be back in business in no time.... Surprised.gif

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brazosvet

My wife says that I have a special tool.... but I digress.

That Ace slip rench will come in handy too if you have a Sky Ski with the shock tower. The nut on the shock must be checked frequently or it will loosen and you will lose all your oil.

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Chauncemaster
I just adjusted mine last weekend. I'll tell you a trick. Take out the hokey wing nut they have in the wrench and replace it with a bolt and nylock nut. Then, while you're in the comfort of your own driveway, adjust the two wrenches to the two different sized nuts and lock them down. If you haven't tried adjusting these packing nuts yet, you don't know how frustrating it is to get the wrenches on there and tight.

That is a great idea, the sock wingnut is useless at keeping it at the correct width.

Even better, once it is set to the right size you could weld it and always have the perfect size for the job.

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VinRLX
I hate when the finish on my nuts gets messed up. Might have to try a little electrical tape.  Crazy.gif

Try a little rubbing compound on those nuts and you'll be back in business in no time.... Surprised.gif

Where's Hank when you need him?

Isn't rubbing compound a bit more abrasive than what I need in this situation? I was thinking an all-in--one cleaner/restorer/polisher.

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HRemington

Jack?...put that random orbital buffer down, now!

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VinRLX

LOLSBOMN (laughing out loud spilling beer out my nose) Ok, now I remember why I used to spend so much time on the computer.

Hi Hank!

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MalibuKat
Is there a special tool or just use 2 really big wrenches? Do I even need 2. Can I loosen the locking nut then tighten.

I just bought a tool called, of all things, a "packing wrench". It was only $10 at my local marine store.

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Pistol Pete

Puuuurrrrfect.

Now, you just need to go back to that store and buy another one. You'll need two of them on there to break the nut free and crank it down.

Welcome to the site.

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jetskipro550
Puuuurrrrfect.

Now, you just need to go back to that store and buy another one. You'll need two of them on there to break the nut free and crank it down.

Welcome to the site.

That was so dumb it was actually funny Tease2.gif

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MalibuKat
Puuuurrrrfect.

Now, you just need to go back to that store and buy another one. You'll need two of them on there to break the nut free and crank it down.

Welcome to the site.

Nope! Already did it, and one worked just fine. (BTW, my previous post was intended as slightly sarcastic humor.) I do have one question though, which I have been looking for the answer to in this forum. I tightened it to stop the leak/drip completely. (per instructions from a MAN that lives in my marina and sells boats) However, it's been suggested to me by a friend that I should not have tightened it so much. He thinks that I want it to drip a little. It's hard enough for a girl to learn how to maintain her boat adequately, but what to do when every man you ask gives you different information!

So, do I need to take a poll on this topic or what? Which of these guys is giving me the correct information? Drip or no drip??

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jetskipro550

It needs to drip! I think its 1 drip every 9-12 seconds IIRC. The water is what lubricates the shaft and without it, the shaft could burn up.

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MalibuKat
It needs to drip! I think its 1 drip every 9-12 seconds IIRC. The water is what lubricates the shaft and without it, the shaft could burn up.

Thank you for the information. I had a feeling the drip was important; it just makes sense now. But, how critical is the amount or time, ie, I've seen advice from 1 drip ever 5 seconds, to ever 30 seconds.

Thanks again!

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jetskipro550

Its not super critical if it drips every 5 seconds or ever 15 seconds. You should try to keep the drip rate between the norm though. Some people can adjust their's easily and others (like me) take forever trying to get theirs set up just right. It took my dad and I almost an hour because our adjustments were so out of whack. Basically, if you don't think its dripping enough you can periodically check the shaft throughout the day to feel if its hot. If its not then the drip rate you have going is just fine.

There is a packing that you can have installed (or do it yourself) and it makes your system dripless or "virtually" dripsless. The completely dripless systems run about 200+ and the virtually dripless systems such as GFO are much cheaper. If you drip rate is to fast, like every second or so, its not a big deal because your bilge will NOT have a problem with that small amount of water. If you like your boat dry, however, its something you will want to get adjusted properly.

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