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Ndawg12

Engine Almost Stalls after Neutral Revving

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Ndawg12

If I rev the engine in neutral up to about 2500 rpm and then pull it back the rpm drop way below normal idle (6-700) and the boat sounds like it almost stalls out, it never has stalled but is this a symptom of something? TIA

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areamike

First thing, fuel filter.

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Ndawg12

First thing, fuel filter.

Changed that about 50 hrs ago, did it before and still does it.

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areamike

Changed that about 50 hrs ago, did it before and still does it.

Well, that was the "simple" thing to check. At 50 hours, you should be ok, unless you have gotten some "dirty gas".

Other things to check that will prove to be more complicated would be:

Fuel Pressure at fuel rails. I believe it should be 45psi

Fuel line screens at fuel pump and injector rails(not clogged)

Fuel pump itself maybe?

Could even be timing, but doubtful.

Edited by areamike

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Bake's Marine

Well, that was the "simple" thing to check. At 50 hours, you should be ok, unless you have gotten some "dirty gas".

Other things to check that will prove to be more complicated would be:

Fuel Pressure at fuel rails. I believe it should be 45psi

Fuel line screens at fuel pump and injector rails(not clogged)

Fuel pump itself maybe?

Could even be timing, but doubtful.

The fuel pump in 2006 would have 60 PSI at key up. (Your 2002 is 45)

Tune part condition and Fuel pressure is where I would start with a symptom like that.

Hope this helps!

-Paul

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areamike

The fuel pump in 2006 would have 60 PSI at key up. (Your 2002 is 45)

Tune part condition and Fuel pressure is where I would start with a symptom like that.

Hope this helps!

-Paul

Thanks for the heads up. I wasn't sure about his.

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Ndawg12

I forgot to mention :Doh: that it runs fine any other time. I've never changed the cap and rotor or plugs, I need a good reason to do so, what do you think? (Monsoon 385hrs)

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Ndawg12

The fuel pump in 2006 would have 60 PSI at key up. (Your 2002 is 45)

Tune part condition and Fuel pressure is where I would start with a symptom like that.

Hope this helps!

-Paul

I had the fuel pressure measured recently when I thought I had leak, all ok. What do you mean by tune part condition?

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areamike

I forgot to mention :Doh: that it runs fine any other time. I've never changed the cap and rotor or plugs, I need a good reason to do so, what do you think? (Monsoon 385hrs)

Maybe bake's can answer better. I personally have never changed my caps or rotor, but I have changed my plugs. My boat has over 600 hours. But then again. every boat can be different in one way or another.

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areamike

I had the fuel pressure measured recently when I thought I had leak, all ok. What do you mean by tune part condition?

I think he means the usual stuff you may change/replace during a tune-up. i.e. Spark plugs.

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eyepeeler

Well, that was the "simple" thing to check. At 50 hours, you should be ok, unless you have gotten some "dirty gas".

Other things to check that will prove to be more complicated would be:

Fuel Pressure at fuel rails. I believe it should be 45psi

Fuel line screens at fuel pump and injector rails(not clogged)

Fuel pump itself maybe?

Could even be timing, but doubtful.

One bad tank of gas can clog one of those little fuel filters. I change my fuel filter every 50 hours and it is always partially clogged.

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davemac

I forgot to mention Doh.gif that it runs fine any other time. I've never changed the cap and rotor or plugs, I need a good reason to do so, what do you think? (Monsoon 385hrs)

Regardless of whether they are the source of this problem, you are ready for both. This may give you some insight.... recent distributor cap thread . My cap/rotor was replaced at 150hrs, and looked fairly nasty.

With 385 hours on them, hopefully your plugs are platinums. A visual check should give you some answers.

Good Luck

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Ndawg12

started thinking about this issue again. I will check the cap, rotor, and plugs when I get it back but what about the IAC?

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idaman

I just changed the non platinum plugs in my vride at 250 hrs. They still looked fairly new. Changed over to platinum plugs though. The biggest issue I have had with mine is contaminated fuel, so that is the first place I would start. Always a good idea for me to have a spare fuel filter to change out just to see if that makes a difference. Then I would check the plugs; however, usually if the plugs were bad you would have a misfire at high rev as well.

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99response

started thinking about this issue again. I will check the cap, rotor, and plugs when I get it back but what about the IAC?

IAC or TPS could be the problem, but I would start with cap, rotor, fuel filter first.

I've always found that cap and rotor are the most neglected maintenance items, a set is cheaper than an impeller.

-Chris

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Ndawg12

I just changed the non platinum plugs in my vride at 250 hrs. They still looked fairly new. Changed over to platinum plugs though. The biggest issue I have had with mine is contaminated fuel, so that is the first place I would start. Always a good idea for me to have a spare fuel filter to change out just to see if that makes a difference. Then I would check the plugs; however, usually if the plugs were bad you would have a misfire at high rev as well.

I thought platinum plugs were oem..?? I do not have a misfire at any rpm.

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