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Replacing flooring,carpeting in rear storage


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The rear storage compartment of my 2002 Response LX is/was looking shabby. The general condition of the carpeting was looking worn, but more importantly, the sub-flooring (1/4 inch plastic) is bent and uneven. One suggestion I got from a local dealer was to replace the sub flooring with 3/4 inch Starboard. That is a heavy plastic. To fit that size, I had to buy an entire sheet ...54X96 ..about $280 with tax. To get it cut and shaped, I'll have to hire a counter top worker, using carbide router bits and blades.

The sheet weighs about 200 lbs and I'm worried about adding the weight (about 45 lbs) to the area and sitting it on the fuel tank.

Any experience out there?


Edited by mrenella
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The only time I have seen it done first hand was in my cousin's 2001 Sunsetter. They used 3/4inch treated plywood instead, cut with a jig saw and then wrapped it in new marine carpeting.

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Starboard is super easy to cut and finish and no special tools are required. I never understood why it's so expensive.

Use the old floor as a template or make one from cardboard and cut it with a jig saw. It's that easy.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

not sure if this is too late but this year i replaced the middle floor piece in my 05 21.5 VLX, i used a 3/4 inch PVC and had it cut to fit. It cost me about $150 and was great with the spray adhesive to place the original carpet. No flex and it fits perfect.

Hope for the best!

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The floor material on the newer boats is actually quite light. You might check with your dealer to see if he has some available. McMaster Carr probably has some honeycomb material that would work and also be lightweight.

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I had the same thing with my 01 Response...once I got the trim piece at the rear locker removed, it still took two people to bend it and wiggle it to get it out. When out, I replaced the fuel filter and put in a new fuel sender since I had access. As for being bent...I am assuming yours is cupped due to the top of the fuel tank being concave. I took off the carpet and just left the insert bare after light sanding to get the glue off (dries much quicker now without leaving the locker cover up to dry). I cut some 3/4" treated plywood (you can get a scrap piece from Lowes, etc) into three inch strips and put three over the concave section. I then put some plastic wrap covered bricks on the ends (for cleanliness)...after a couple weeks, the plastic started to slightly straighten out again. I am just leaving the strips and bricks in over winter and it should be good to go...I might leave the strips in permanently so it doesn't re-warp again. Thumbup.gif

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