Boat cutting out

[gatty]

Long story wich I know is not going to be easy to solve. But I need a starting point to try and work this out!

Took boat out, it ran fine for about 3 hours. Was idling around to pick skiier up and boat just cut out. Boat started immedietely and ran for another 10 mins fine. This time while towing a skiier boat cut out again. Once again boat started fine. About 5 mins later boat cut out again while towing skiier. This time there was no beeping from under dash when key was in the "ACC" position - boat would not start - gauges were working still though. I flicked my rear right ballast tank switch a few times - beeping from under dash came on and boat started. About 2 mins later same thing as above - this time when attempting to pull skiier out of water.

At this satge I started to head back. Started boat when you take off boat died. Started straight back up and started to head back. Boat suddenly cut out - then straight back in so I kept going. Boat cut out once more on the 5 mins drive back to ramp. While waiting for trailer to be reversed in I was out in middle of river, boat would start then cut straight out when enagaing gears. Sometimes it was required that I flick the ballast switch which seems to me resets somehting that may be shorting out such as the ECM?

Once the problem starts it gradually gets worse, by the time I was about to drive boat on trailer the engine was cutting out after 15-20 secs, then it may run for 1min+

When it cuts out it's as if power to the fuel pump is cut causing it to stall. Occassionally prior to it cutting out I will get a alarm from under dash which is same tone/pitch/count as the "ACC" on buzzer.

I checked all connections under arm rest, cleaned 12V bus and cleaned all C/B connections. Also relays mouted on engine look fine!

Any idea's? This is a ongoing issue and is driving me crazy!

Boat: VLX 335 EFI VDrive

Thanks guys

[skier92]

Was this the first outing where you went through the progression of running fine to cutting out with increasing frequency? Just because it's os easy to check, try bypassing the lanyard safety switch. You mentioned cleaning 12v bus and breaker connections, was there any corrosion? If so, start checking all ground connections, particuarly those grounded to engine. A star washer between terminal ring and mounting surface after scraping of rust is a good connecion. Also check for corrosion between wire and crimp connectors. Since you suspect fuel pump, start there.

[Deke]

Was this the first outing where you went through the progression of running fine to cutting out with increasing frequency? Just because it's os easy to check, try bypassing the lanyard safety switch. You mentioned cleaning 12v bus and breaker connections, was there any corrosion? If so, start checking all ground connections, particuarly those grounded to engine. A star washer between terminal ring and mounting surface after scraping of rust is a good connecion. Also check for corrosion between wire and crimp connectors. Since you suspect fuel pump, start there.

The lanyard switch would cause the dash to go dead too, same with grounds. The fuel pump not working could be the case but not necessarily what you think. Before you go checking the pump itself make sure you have checked the relay. Actually there are two relays that have to work before it will start. I discovered this AFTER replacing my fuel pump a couple of years ago. I had a flakey relay which is way cheaper.

I also agree with others that first you should check all connections including that large "cannon plug". Sometimes unplugging and reconnecting is enough to clean things up.