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Changing Impeller


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First off, what a great forum.

After doing some reviews of past posts I conquered my 1st Impeller change. It was just about how I read others doing it, and took me about 1 hour, most likely because I was being cautious since it was my first time.

Some things I would add that helped me was an articulating-ratchet style screwdriver which helped get the flathead screws off without having to move the muffler/exhaust at all. I also used an articulating mirror so I could see what I was doing since space and vision are compromised in the engine compartment. I also had a magnetic wand just in case I dropped one of the screws in the hull, but luckily that didn't happen, only because a past post warned me of the potential problem.

Thanks to this forum, everything went pretty smoothly and i'm sure next time will be a quicker change.

One question, is there a certain amount of torque required on the 4 screws, or is it just hand tight?

Thanks...this forum rocks Yahoo.gif

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I also had a magnetic wand just in case I dropped one of the screws in the hull, but luckily that didn't happen, only because a past post warned me of the potential problem.

Just so you know...those are brass machine screws...magnet wouldn't have helped you at all.

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I also had a magnetic wand just in case I dropped one of the screws in the hull, but luckily that didn't happen, only because a past post warned me of the potential problem.

Just so you know...those are brass machine screws...magnet wouldn't have helped you at all.

No, I guess not with the brass screws...but maybe with the removable screwdriver bit...good tool to have around just in case IMO Dontknow.gif

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It don't take much torque at all to ring them off....ask me how I know! :Doh:

hand tight and then a slight snug up with the screwdriver is sufficient.

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First off, what a great forum.

After doing some reviews of past posts I conquered my 1st Impeller change. It was just about how I read others doing it, and took me about 1 hour, most likely because I was being cautious since it was my first time.

Some things I would add that helped me was an articulating-ratchet style screwdriver which helped get the flathead screws off without having to move the muffler/exhaust at all. I also used an articulating mirror so I could see what I was doing since space and vision are compromised in the engine compartment. I also had a magnetic wand just in case I dropped one of the screws in the hull, but luckily that didn't happen, only because a past post warned me of the potential problem.

Thanks to this forum, everything went pretty smoothly and i'm sure next time will be a quicker change.

One question, is there a certain amount of torque required on the 4 screws, or is it just hand tight?

Thanks...this forum rocks Yahoo.gif

Realistically I think the best tool for the job is a little 5/16 combination wrench. I keep one with my spare impeller.

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It don't take much torque at all to ring them off....ask me how I know! :Doh:

hand tight and then a slight snug up with the screwdriver is sufficient.

Awesome..thanks. That's all I did was make it hand tight. Thanks for the info. Now on to the project $$$.

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It don't take much torque at all to ring them off....ask me how I know! :Doh:

hand tight and then a slight snug up with the screwdriver is sufficient.

Awesome..thanks. That's all I did was make it hand tight. Thanks for the info. Now on to the project $$$.

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I typically use a nut driver to tighten those bolts because they do shear off pretty easy with the torque applied by a combo wrench.

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previous owner of my boat had retrofit w/ stainless allen head bolts that work out real nicely. I keep the specific sized allen wrench in the glove box, & it gives quite a bit of "feel" when tightening. I'm not sure if this would be practical on a VD, but works great on a DD?

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previous owner of my boat had retrofit w/ stainless allen head bolts that work out real nicely. I keep the specific sized allen wrench in the glove box, & it gives quite a bit of "feel" when tightening. I'm not sure if this would be practical on a VD, but works great on a DD?

Poor engineering choice because you really want the bolt to be softer than the material its going into to, snapping a 50 cent bolt head is better than messing up an internal thread in that $150 housing

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That's a good point.

BTW, my brass screws are showing their age after many impellar changes. Anyone know the 'specs' on the scews, and if they are available at Home Depot etc, or do they need to be ordered from somewhere like skidim?

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I think its like a #10 UNC or UNF but not sure on that one. I was able to find a replacement at lowes one time when I snapped one on vacation - it was a countersunk allen SS one though.

If you want brass you will have to go skidim.

-Chris

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previous owner of my boat had retrofit w/ stainless allen head bolts that work out real nicely. I keep the specific sized allen wrench in the glove box, & it gives quite a bit of "feel" when tightening. I'm not sure if this would be practical on a VD, but works great on a DD?

That sounds like a good idea, but if the pump housing is also brass can you cause damage with the stainless bolts from over tightening. Dontknow.gif I'm assuming you have easier access with a DD than I do with a VD, therefore you can apply more torque. Due to the position of the screws, etc., I am limited on how much torque I can actually apply do to body position, etc.

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I took cover off bumped the engine over twice and the impellar came out pretty easy. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and then tightened till the gasket stopped compressing. I also tightened a little at a time in a clockwise manner...

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Do you replace the gasket when you change the impeller? I have a new impeller sitting on the shelf, just haven't been able to get around to changing it yet. Where would I get the gasket if I needed to replace it?

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Do you replace the gasket when you change the impeller? I have a new impeller sitting on the shelf, just haven't been able to get around to changing it yet. Where would I get the gasket if I needed to replace it?

yes/ dealer, bakesonline, or skidim

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Just changed the impeller for the first time on or vRide yesterday. What a pain in the a** it is to get that thing out. There is no easy way to get to it with the exhaust right on top of it. I don't know why they don't put it in a more easily accessible place for something that's supposed to be changed as frequently as it is.

I ended up taking the engine cover pad off, used a 5/16" ratchet to get the cover off, then tried using a vice grip to pull the old impeller out...unsuccessfuly. Then I turned the engine over a few times (actually started up for about 1 second, then turned it off). Went back in and put the vice grip back on the impeller and pulled right out. Thanks for that tip whoever posted that!!

Then came getting the new one in. I lubed it all up with the supplied lube, then twisted it and pushed it into the housing. I got it in as far as where it would start to engage the shaft and I had a hell of a time getting it to line up. After repositioning it about 25 times, it finally slide all the way in. I put the cover back on with the new gasket supplied with the impeller, tightening the screws a little at a time on all 4 corners until the gasket stopped compressing, then just another quarter turn to snug the screws up.

Thanks to all the helpful suggestions on here, it went as well as can be expected for the first time! Now if i can just get my arms to bend like Gumbi, then I'll be able to do the next one much quicker.

P.S. I know somebody is going to have fun with some of the descriptions of the actions I described above, keep your minds out of the gutter!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

I recetly did an impeller change on my '02 VLX and followed all of the guidelines discussed below and in other related posts. I've had the boat out 3 times since without issue (the only noticeable change was the first couple of times starting it up the motor would get hot ~200ish so Id' rev up the idle and it would cool to 160 and be fine the rest of the day).

Then this last weekend I was headed out and shortly after getting up to power all hell broke loose - engine went into limp mode, alarm was buzzing, temp shot up to 200+. I popped the motor cover to discover the detachable plate of the impeller housing had come off and water was shooting out of the housing. After a tow back to the dock - was able to fish out the plate and find all 4 of the brass bolts and all were in tact. It looks like the bolts rattled loose as they hadn't sheared off at the heads.

I inspected the housing and impeller -evertying seemed fine. Got it all back together and took out for a test drive and everything seemed fine. Started cooling right away on start up. The only noticeable item was that after getting up near top speed the temp rose from 160-170 for a short time then back to 160, and then upon coming to a stop i'd get a short spike to 170 again. This may be normal and I might not have been paying that close of attention before?

Any tips or pointers on what I goofed up the first time that the impeller housing plate would have come loose/off? I started to squirt some loctite, but was strongly advised against this by the marina I was at...

Thanks in advance!

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Hi All

I recetly did an impeller change on my '02 VLX and followed all of the guidelines discussed below and in other related posts. I've had the boat out 3 times since without issue (the only noticeable change was the first couple of times starting it up the motor would get hot ~200ish so Id' rev up the idle and it would cool to 160 and be fine the rest of the day).

Then this last weekend I was headed out and shortly after getting up to power all hell broke loose - engine went into limp mode, alarm was buzzing, temp shot up to 200+. I popped the motor cover to discover the detachable plate of the impeller housing had come off and water was shooting out of the housing. After a tow back to the dock - was able to fish out the plate and find all 4 of the brass bolts and all were in tact. It looks like the bolts rattled loose as they hadn't sheared off at the heads.

I inspected the housing and impeller -evertying seemed fine. Got it all back together and took out for a test drive and everything seemed fine. Started cooling right away on start up. The only noticeable item was that after getting up near top speed the temp rose from 160-170 for a short time then back to 160, and then upon coming to a stop i'd get a short spike to 170 again. This may be normal and I might not have been paying that close of attention before?

Any tips or pointers on what I goofed up the first time that the impeller housing plate would have come loose/off? I started to squirt some loctite, but was strongly advised against this by the marina I was at...

Thanks in advance!

have you looked for old pieces of impeller throughout your cooling system?

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One way to get around the stripped screw or housing issue is to use stainless steel studs and nuts. Just buy stainless steel screws 1/2" longer (with the same thread) and cut the head off. You can use a hacksaw or any quality pair of wire strippers usually have small bolt cutters built into them near the hinge. Once you cut the head off use a fine file and a new nut to clean-up the treads. Use loctite to secure the stainless steel stud into the housing and run it all the way in until it bottoms out. That's it, and actually the studs will help support the gasket when installing the cover. Just remember not to over tighten the nuts, and to buy a few extras so you'll have them when you drop one in the bilge...

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