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Service....


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Getting ready to change my fluids for the first time:

2007 23 LSV 383

Any tricks to pumping the engine oil out? I'll be using a Tempo hand pump and I don't have a way to run the motor out of the water to warm the oil up.

Checking the V-Drive fluid... Checked it the other day on the trailer and it was WAY up the stick. What is the correct way to check this?

Are there any fluid charts for the V-Drive and the trans?

Thanks for any words of wisdom....

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You should have a hose on the bottom of the oil pan that you can run through the hole in the bottom of the boat.

Edited by griswald
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I'll be looking to do the same thing this week along with changing the impeller. I've seen through some searching that people will use an oil boy to pump out the vdrive and tranny fluid. but i have not been able to find one, anybody know where to buy it?

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I'll be looking to do the same thing this week along with changing the impeller. I've seen through some searching that people will use an oil boy to pump out the vdrive and tranny fluid. but i have not been able to find one, anybody know where to buy it?

West Marine carries them. Or, you could order from Overton's. Probably multiple other sources.

Having done this relatively recently, I would suggest obtaining two empty, rinsed out, 2 liter bottles

of your favorite soda. A Sharpie pen comes in handy as well. Now, once you've pumped the

transmission's main unit dry, decant the fluid (ATF for my boat) into one of the empty bottles and mark the

level with the Sharpie pen. Then, you can either decant that fluid into the second bottle and then fill

the first with fresh fliud to the level marked, or you can hold the two bottles side-to-side and get a

good approximation of the level of fresh fluid to pour into the second bottle. Then, take whichever

bottle holds the fresh fluid and pour it back into the main unit. This way, you've added back to the

main unit pretty much the exact volume that you extracted.

Repeat same procedure for the v-drive unit (also ATF on my boat). This may be a little more labor-

intensive, or at least it was for me. On my v-drive, I hit multiple small pockets of fluid and had to

reposition the suction hose a number of times before I'd convinced myself that I had removed as much

fluid as I was going to be able to.

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Getting ready to change my fluids for the first time:

2007 23 LSV 383

Any tricks to pumping the engine oil out? I'll be using a Tempo hand pump and I don't have a way to run the motor out of the water to warm the oil up.

If you lift up the center-rear seat and take out the storage tray, you should be looking directly down on the v-drive

unit. Just to the starboard (driver's) side, you should see a hose connecting the raw water intake on the bottom of

the boat to the v-drive. If you loosen the C-clamp holding the hose coming from the raw water intake pipe and

wiggle the hose free from the intake (it's an upside-down U shape), you can then insert a garden hose into that hose

12 inches or more. Then, if you turn on the water supply to the garden hose, you can run the engine to warm up the

oil. At idle speed, you really don't need that much water flow. Once running, you can adjust the flow downward so that

water no longer spills back out from the hose. Let the engine run until you are up to operating temperature (160

degrees), then shut her down and you're ready to change fluids.

I prefer to use the hose from the bottom of the oil pan to drain the oil rather than suck it out from the dipstick. It is

possible, I am told, to get the extractor hose stuck if you advance it down the dipstick channel. My extractor has

two different sized, fairly rigid tubes/hoses to choose from. The larger of the two works well for me if I advance it 2-3

feet into the hose from the oil pan [after, of course, removing the brass cap fitting on the end]. Then, just pump

the extractor handle 2-3 times and watch as the oil drains into the extractor. Periodically, you'll need to give the

handle another pump or two.

If you're too nervous to attempt to run the engine with the garden hose, as described above, you can probably

extract it cold. It'll take longer, and you might not get quite as much of the old oil out, but it should work. Some

folks just snake that hose from the oil pan out through the t-handled plug on the port-side of center, remove the

brass cap, and let it drain passively into an oil container overnight.

I'm under the impression that changing oil is a bit more difficult with the Hammerhead. Do a search and you'll find

tips specific for your engine.

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Thanks for the info! I didn't know my motor had the cool hose on the bottom........

How far up the stick shoud the V-drive fluid sit when on the trailer?

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You really want the engine to be warmed up when doing an oil change. You could even go run it at the lake, drag it home and change it right after.

The oil is just so viscous when its cold it is hard to get anywhere near 5 quarts out.

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I made this gizmo a couple weeks ago from Home Depot parts so that I could run the boat in the driveway. I unhook the raw water hose from driver's side of the v-drive & hook this up to it, along with the garden hose on the other end. Close the valve, turn on the garden hose, jump in the boat, slowly open the valve, and when I hear water coming out the exhaust I start the engine. If there is any problem, I can close the valve to fix the problem. No muss, no fuss.

CIMG1600.jpg

The hose on my oil pan isn't long enough to get out the drain hole. So I pull one of the rear ballast pumps & stick the oil drain thru there. Took me a bit longer the first time because I installed quick disconnects on the pump wires. But now it's pretty easy.

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I prefer to use the hose from the bottom of the oil pan to drain the oil rather than suck it out from the dipstick. It is

possible, I am told, to get the extractor hose stuck if you advance it down the dipstick channel. My extractor has

two different sized, fairly rigid tubes/hoses to choose from. The larger of the two works well for me if I advance it 2-3

feet into the hose from the oil pan [after, of course, removing the brass cap fitting on the end]. Then, just pump

the extractor handle 2-3 times and watch as the oil drains into the extractor. Periodically, you'll need to give the

handle another pump or two.

Ahh crap! Why didn't I think of this? I tried to make an adapter to fit the end of the hose from the oil pan. I couldn't stop sucking air. I eventually just put the hose down the dipstick hole. Seemed to work just fine, but I'll be trying your method next time. Makes perfect sense.

On a side note, it seems I only pulled out around 4 quarts. I haven't run the engine since replacing the oil so I'm assuming I'll use another half to full quart to fill the oil filter.

BTW, the plastic bag around the filter works great. As long as you don't drop the damn thing once it comes loose! Doh! :Doh:

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I prefer to use the hose from the bottom of the oil pan to drain the oil rather than suck it out from the dipstick. It is

possible, I am told, to get the extractor hose stuck if you advance it down the dipstick channel. My extractor has

two different sized, fairly rigid tubes/hoses to choose from. The larger of the two works well for me if I advance it 2-3

feet into the hose from the oil pan [after, of course, removing the brass cap fitting on the end]. Then, just pump

the extractor handle 2-3 times and watch as the oil drains into the extractor. Periodically, you'll need to give the

handle another pump or two.

Ahh crap! Why didn't I think of this? I tried to make an adapter to fit the end of the hose from the oil pan. I couldn't stop sucking air. I eventually just put the hose down the dipstick hole. Seemed to work just fine, but I'll be trying your method next time. Makes perfect sense.

On a side note, it seems I only pulled out around 4 quarts. I haven't run the engine since replacing the oil so I'm assuming I'll use another half to full quart to fill the oil filter.

BTW, the plastic bag around the filter works great. As long as you don't drop the damn thing once it comes loose! Doh! :Doh:

As does a 2 liter thats been cut off. After messing with pumps for years, I now just run the oil drain hose out the bottom and pull the plug. Much easier IMHO.

As to Ops questions about fluid height, read your manual on yiour specific measuring instructions. Mine says NOT to screw in the dipstick to get reading. If you were, then obviously the reading may be higher, but you should look to manual for guidance.

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My boat doesn't have a hole in the bottom to run the hose out of. I really need to take a pic to show everyone that doesn't believe. It just doesn't exist.

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My boat doesn't have a hole in the bottom to run the hose out of. I really need to take a pic to show everyone that doesn't believe. It just doesn't exist.

You don't have a drain plug? Should be under the vdrive unit slightly to passenger side of center.

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My boat doesn't have a hole in the bottom to run the hose out of. I really need to take a pic to show everyone that doesn't believe. It just doesn't exist.

My Vride doesn't have one either. I pull one of the rear ballast pumps & push the hose thru there.

I put quick disconnects on the pump wires to make that process a little easier.

There is a drain plug in the transom. And the one up by the driver. But the oil pan hose isn't long enough to use either.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Our 07 Vride doesn't have a drain plug in engine bilge area either. Has plug by center ballast and then on the transom.

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I think mid year 2004 they stopped installing the mid ship drain plug. My early 2004 has it later ones don't.

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I think mid year 2004 they stopped installing the mid ship drain plug. My early 2004 has it later ones don't.

You talking about near the center ballast or under engine? An 04 I'm in a lot has it under engine, but not near midship ballast.

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Well it sounds like if you have an 07 vride you can't run the tube out the hull! You could drill a plug though.

Uh, no, go back & re-read.

There are two drain plugs. One by the front ballast & one in the transom. But you have to remove a ballast pump to drain the oil. I'm pretty sure I got this little tidbit from this group a year or two ago.

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Well it sounds like if you have an 07 vride you can't run the tube out the hull! You could drill a plug though.

Uh, no, go back & re-read.

There are two drain plugs. One by the front ballast & one in the transom. But you have to remove a ballast pump to drain the oil. I'm pretty sure I got this little tidbit from this group a year or two ago.

Correct I should have said through the main drain plug. In yesteryears malibu used a 3 hole design. t handles at 2, and a square head on the transom. I always did wonder why so many were needed, and I guess they finally cut back.

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Bill Air's 05'vride and Snowrider's 07'vride don't have a drain plug. My 06'vride does have a drain plug. Good Luck!!! Dontknow.gif

Ha! Thats funny. Somebodies' got a Friday afternoon boat. Whistling.gif

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I think mid year 2004 they stopped installing the mid ship drain plug. My early 2004 has it later ones don't.

You talking about near the center ballast or under engine? An 04 I'm in a lot has it under engine, but not near midship ballast.

I meant the one under the V-drive, thats my middle one. I realize I wasn't very clear. Mine has 3, transom V-drive and by the front ballast. The later 04s that I've seen don't have the one under the V-drive

Edited by bigD
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I think mid year 2004 they stopped installing the mid ship drain plug. My early 2004 has it later ones don't.

You talking about near the center ballast or under engine? An 04 I'm in a lot has it under engine, but not near midship ballast.

I meant the one under the V-drive, thats my middle one. I realize I wasn't very clear. Mine has 3, transom V-drive and by the front ballast. The later 04s that I've seen don't have the one under the V-drive

That's the design of all the vdrives I've been in. Until today I thought all were like that. Apparently not.

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