247 LSV Rear Seat Support Fix Photos....

[rustie]

Ok, from this past post:

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....showtopic=20222

...and BIII Air Junky's suggestion of the angle metal.....here is the best solution possible without going to a hinged seat (and causing difficulties with maintenance), but completely preventing any center seat tipping, and any corner seat "fall-in" (I've tried it too...and I'm 220lbs). Take a look:

Edited May 9, 2009 by rustie

[woody]

Very nice!

[rustie]

BTW....all forward facing, and side edges were fully rounded to prevent any other severe cuts should anyone hit their shins while the seat was off (it would still hurt one HUGE amount though). But now, there is little chance that a "Kruger-mauled" foot will ever occur by stepping through the plastic container above the V-drive.

With the seat pegs properly placed behind the support (inside the plastic container), the seat has NO TENDENCIES to tip at all. It is fully supported front to back, with the original "fulcrum" no longer in existence....

[Bill_AirJunky]

Sweet. Now I need to get off my butt & make this mod on the Vride too.

[mibarefooter]

Nice job on that you will never know it didn't come from the factory like that.

[skicrave]

Looks like great attention to detail, nice job.

I didn't read your other thread, so forgive me if this was covered there, by why not just relocate the plastic blocks on the bottom of the seat cushions?

[bilbao]

What about adding a locking system similar to the one used to lock the engine cover down. That should solve the problem without too much work.

[rustie]

......why not just relocate the plastic blocks on the bottom of the seat cushions?

Relocate the OEM plastic blocks? Not sure where else you could put them to prevent tipping and still function as originally intended (preventing the seat from sliding forward).

Putting them anywhere else would not solve the problem of eliminating that dangerous "fulcrum". Now, the seat is still properly located and prevented from sliding forward by the blocks (in their original position). But, the "box structure" that was the fulcrum (center of a teeter-totter so to speak), and to where the alum angle is attached, can no longer function as that tipping point (fulcrum). Problem solved....

Edited May 11, 2009 by rustie

[rustie]

What about adding a locking system similar to the one used to lock the engine cover down.

Even if you could find a way to mount the latches underneath the seat, it would require somewhat clumsy (and even difficult) "active operation" to latch and unlatch every time you wanted to remove the center seat (and the latches would obviously look REALLY bad mounted through the top of the seat!)

With the alum angle bolted in place, seat removal action still remains as originally intended (passive), with no mechanisms to turn and unlatch each time you wanted access to the plastic storage bin....or for maintenance....

[rustie]

Another thought to eliminate any possibility of banging one's shins on that forward exposed edge of the aluminum angle while the middle seat is off during maintenance....simply slit (longitudinally) some thin wall 1/4" ID neoprene vacuum line and slip it over the forward facing edge of the angle. You could permanently secure the tubing with some superglue...or contact cement to prevent slippage or loss.....

[skicrave]

Moving the blocks out towards the edge of the cushion more will solve the problem of the corner cushions falling through the opening, and will wedge the center cushion in enough (in addition to removing the moment that occurs at the edge).

That's the fix we've done on every boat we've owned. FWIW.

[rustie]

Moving the blocks out towards the edge of the cushion more will solve the problem of the corner cushions falling through the opening, and will wedge the center cushion in enough (in addition to removing the moment that occurs at the edge).

Yes, that could help with the corner cushions (thought you were talking about the center). But, once the blocks are relocated to push the corner seats further back (into the corner), didn't that loosen and/or change the alignment with respect to the center and side cushions? How much did you relocate the corner seat cushion blocks....1/2", 1"....or?

The extremely simple sheet metal "corner extension" would actually be easier to accomplish than relocating the blocks....but I do like the idea. Maybe it's worth doing both....

[skicrave]

We've never had to move them enough that it messes up the alignment of the outside edge with the other cushions. If you push the cushion back into the corner gently you can see how much play there is, which will give you an idea of how much you need to move the blocks out.

Your corner brace is definitely easier, I just thought I would float the idea in case you had problems getting stuff in and out of that space with the opening area decreased.