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impeller installation


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Does anyone know how difficult it is to install a new impeller for a v-drive (wakesetter VTX)??

For example how long might this take?

If the boat was winterized by dealer is it normal to not remove the impeller?

Thanks!

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Changed mine for the first time last month. Very easy, took about 15 minutes. Go ahead and order the new one before you remove the old, so you have it ready. Also, note which wasy the blades are bent so you install it the right direction.

Edited by fijidaniel
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Changed mine for the first time last month. Very easy, took about 15 minutes. Go ahead and order the new one before you remove the old, so you have it ready. Also, note which wasy the blades are bent so you install it the right direction.

Don't worry about the direction of the vanes, the motor will take care of that.

I doubt any dealers remove the impeller for winterization.

-Chris

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Changed mine for the first time last month. Very easy, took about 15 minutes. Go ahead and order the new one before you remove the old, so you have it ready. Also, note which wasy the blades are bent so you install it the right direction.

Did you use a puller?

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Does anyone know how difficult it is to install a new impeller for a v-drive (wakesetter VTX)??

For example how long might this take?

If the boat was winterized by dealer is it normal to not remove the impeller?

Thanks!

Takes about twenty minutes, I just changed mine "02' Wakesetter VLX" and it took about 15 minutes. Just take out the four screws on the plate and grab it with some needle nose pliers. When you pull it out remember which way the paddles on the impeller were pushed and slide the new one in the same way by twisting slightly when you are pushing it in. I had to take a hammer and bump it in once it got close. As for winterizing, I never pull mine out, just crack the plate open and drain the water out. Good luck.

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Does anyone know how difficult it is to install a new impeller for a v-drive (wakesetter VTX)??

For example how long might this take?

If the boat was winterized by dealer is it normal to not remove the impeller?

Thanks!

Takes about twenty minutes, I just changed mine "02' Wakesetter VLX" and it took about 15 minutes. Just take out the four screws on the plate and grab it with some needle nose pliers. When you pull it out remember which way the paddles on the impeller were pushed and slide the new one in the same way by twisting slightly when you are pushing it in. I had to take a hammer and bump it in once it got close. As for winterizing, I never pull mine out, just crack the plate open and drain the water out. Good luck.

believe someone here on the crew came up with the cheap puller

it's just two paint can openers from home depot, etc. screwed together

works well

quick and easy and $2

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I just did my sunscape 21 LSV impeller change today for the first time and it was more than 2 hours and had to resort to taking the raw water pump off the engine. The impeller change was a piece of cake once the pump was out. Most of the time was spent attempting to remove the impeller with the pump in place and then removing the pump (with plain allen wrenches...ugh).

Before removing the pump, I had tried two screwdrivers, two awls with bent tips, needle nose, and needle nose vise grips. Could not get the leverage needed even with the side panels off and the face pushed against the transom. I wish I had read the posts on trying an engine bump before though. Didn´t try that.

So here is my question. It was really blind reinstalling the pump. Everything seems to line up and tighten up on the reinstall.....did not have time to run the motor after....started to wonder if there was any sort of special alignment / check that was necessary required on a pump install to get it dead center. Seemed like the holes in the pump that the bolts went through had a lot of room. Is there anything required for alignment on a raw pump install.

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This is a quick and esay procedure. I've done it a few times now. I use the advice I got searching on this subject on this very site.

Step 1 - remove impeller cover

Step 2 - spray WD-40 on the old impeller

Step 3 - disconnect coil wire (or some other method of allowing you to turn the motor over using the starter but not have it start)

Step 4 - crank the motor over a few seconds

Step 5 - use needle nose pliers and pull the old impeller out

Step 6 - install new impeller, gasket, pump cover and reconnect coil wire

My g/f has done this twice now. So if she can do it in 20 minutes or less you guys can do it :)

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Does anyone know how difficult it is to install a new impeller for a v-drive (wakesetter VTX)??

For example how long might this take?

If the boat was winterized by dealer is it normal to not remove the impeller?

Thanks!

Takes about twenty minutes, I just changed mine "02' Wakesetter VLX" and it took about 15 minutes. Just take out the four screws on the plate and grab it with some needle nose pliers. When you pull it out remember which way the paddles on the impeller were pushed and slide the new one in the same way by twisting slightly when you are pushing it in. I had to take a hammer and bump it in once it got close. As for winterizing, I never pull mine out, just crack the plate open and drain the water out. Good luck.

believe someone here on the crew came up with the cheap puller

it's just two paint can openers from home depot, etc. screwed together

works well

quick and easy and $2

DSC00388.jpgDSC00387.jpg

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My g/f has done this twice now. So if she can do it in 20 minutes or less you guys can do it :)

Wow! I gotta see if I can get my wife to work on my impeller. . .

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Any input on my raw water pump reinstall question? Is there any special alignment required or is it just bolt it back up where it came off?

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can't speak for other brand imprllers but, Johnson Impeller instructions cleary state not to use petroleum based products to lubricate impeller as this will damage impeller. They call for the use of glycerin, available at drug stores (for at least one source). WD 40 is a petroleum based product.

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Mine came with a small tube of glycerin which they say to use on the gasket. But there is more than enough to use to lubricate the impeller. KY (Kentucky?) jelly makes a good substitute, it is water based.

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It's a lot harder to change on a newer V-drive due to the big silent rider muffler right in the way. you may as well be blindfolded doing it.

I will be doing it again next week with all the other spring maintenance Frustrated.gif but this year I have the impeller puller added to my tool collection :)

post-149-1240084880.jpg

Edited by bigD
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I just did it on my Sunscape 21 LSV and it is a rotten experience. I got the old one out using needle nose vice grips but damaged it taking it out. I made one of the tools someone had posted (made from to paint can openers) but the tool broke once I put pressure on it to permit me to pull on the impeller.

I just ordered a spare impeller from Bakes Marine and I also ordered an impeller pulling tool from them ($57.80). I figure that it pays for itself by allowing me to keep the replaced impeller as a spare instead of ordering a new one as a spare each year. (And that does not even include the scratched up arms, aching back, and sore throat [from using "colorful language" during the removal process].)

My advice - buy the tool and save the aggravation. (I don't want to even imagine what it would be like to do what I just did on the water with a blown impeller and a hot motor.)

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In addition to lubing vanes of old impeller, a small amount of neversieze on the shaft (carefull not to use too much that it gets on impeller vanes) seems to help in removal next time around.

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Changed mine for the first time last month. Very easy, took about 15 minutes. Go ahead and order the new one before you remove the old, so you have it ready. Also, note which wasy the blades are bent so you install it the right direction.

Did you use a puller?

No puller, just screw drivers and needle nose vise grips.

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To remove mine, I used those pliers that open when you squeeze the handles...(name escapes me) dug the edges into the brass grooves and wiggled it out. It was a bit of a grunt and it only marks up the brass center where it does not contact the spilnes.

Dave

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I'm picturing chain pliers. Small "cupped" hooks on each side of jaws to hook chain. Chain opens up when handles squezzed. Good Idea!

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