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Prop Strut Bent


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Took my boat in for maintenance and asked them to check the prop shaft since about 2 years ago I hit a log and did some damage to the prop but never had the shaft inspected. They said that the strut is bent but the shaft is straight and quoted 3 hours labor to replace the strut. I'm wondering how difficult the replacement is and if there's any specialy tools needed. I figure the prop needs to be removed and then the strut looks like it's bolted the fiberglass. After un-bolting it I "assume" the strut should slide off and I can lubricate the new one and bolt it up. Dontknow.gif Anybody know how it's done and if I should attempt it?

Also, I told him that I might pick it up because I want to go out on Saturday, but he said not to do it because of the excessive strain and wear on the gears. But I'm thinking that its been like that for two years... Except for I did put a good amount of tourqe on the shaft when I switched props a couple weeks ago. And I don't think that a simple 1/4" wrench could tweek the strut.

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I actually just dropped my boat off at the local dealer for the same thing. I never had any vibrations, but noticed it wasn't centered. That was just something I didn't want to mess with.

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I've done it 3 times......it's about an hour job. Remove prop. Remove nuts inside hull bottom that hold strut, then slide strut off shaft.. Put silicone sealant (caulk stuff) on new strut's plate where it mates with hull bottom. Reinstall bolts/nuts (6, I think) and prop. You're done.

Note: new strut is like $215 at dealer. You can take your bent one, mount it on work bench, then put a broom handle or other bar in strut and wrench it back to straight. Not rocket science. Eye-ball it to straight - draw a line from strut out on bench to align broom shaft with. If it's in the neighborhood of good alignment, you're done. Not a precision fit. Others will say your strut bushing will wear out if not perfect. Never had a problem with mine.

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I just did one on my VLX.

Start by truning the rudder left or right

Pull Prop

Remove screws and slide off strut (there may be washers between the hull and strut used as shims, make sure u hang on to these for when you install the new one.

Remove old sealant from hull, and clean area throughly

Dry fit the new strut to determine if shims are needed. it should touch all the way around without being muscled. ALSO IF THE OLD HOLES DON'T LINE UP YOU NEED TO ALIGN YOUR ENGINE NOW!

Assuming it looks good

Coat the part of the new strut that comes into contact with the hull with a good underwater sealant/adhesive I use 3M brand 5200, but there are others out there, just make sure its for use UNDER THE WATER LINE!

If you require spacer washers set them onto the strut now and coat them with sealant. (they will tend to squeeze out when bolting down, but you can slide them back in with a screwdriver).

Slide the strut on, Line up the holes, and bolt it up

Criss Cross and stagger the bolts as you tighten so that they tighten evenly

Wipe off excess sealant and making it look nice

Replace prop and let dry 24 hours

hope that helps takes about 30 minutes if you dont have an engine alignment issue. if your holes dont line up, dont force them to by bending the shaft, just adjust the motor till it lines up. Good luck

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...Coat the part of the new strut that comes into contact with the hull with a good underwater sealant/adhesive I use 3M brand 5200, but there are others out there, just make sure its for use UNDER THE WATER LINE!

I would suggest a 'regular' silicone sealant around the strut. By using the 3M 5200, you will have a very hard time if that ever needs to be removed again.

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AWESOME Thumbup.gif So the bushings should come inside the new strut correct?

Thank you very much!!!!

For sure, let me know if you need help I've done a few myself and it's no problem.

Edited by 68Slalom
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After you replace the strut, you MUST properly align the engine to shaft coupler, and "eyeball" or "it looks good" won't get you the proper tolerance.

-Chris

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FYI - I just got a call back from the dealer and he said that the engine and shaft were dead on. He said the only thing they could do was replace the strut and I think it was around $400. If you can do it yourself this easy, thats a big money saver. Mine wasn't that bad, so they put it back together and I'm ready for spring!

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After you replace the strut, you MUST properly align the engine to shaft coupler, and "eyeball" or "it looks good" won't get you the proper tolerance.

-Chris

Now that sounds like its out of my capabilities. Throwpc.gif

FYI - I just got a call back from the dealer and he said that the engine and shaft were dead on. He said the only thing they could do was replace the strut and I think it was around $400. If you can do it yourself this easy, thats a big money saver. Mine wasn't that bad, so they put it back together and I'm ready for spring!

Nice, they want $600 to do mine. I need to find out if that includes aligning the engine. Damn kalifornia labor rates!!!!

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When I took it in, I asked if they could just see if aligning the engine would solve the problem. They took the shaft apart and looked to see if it would need aligining and they said that it didn't. Just charged $110 for an hour labor.

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