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2nd Round of General Echelon Questions


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Appreciate all the replies I had on what to look for in a 1994...still waiting for weather to break for water test. In meantime, have a few more questions...one I was reminded of by my wife this AM.

- read or heard somewhere marina gas doesn't have ethanol added to it...and if you run your boat (most have PVC or polystyrene I believe) on regular pump gas from corner station, the ethanol eats away at fuel tank and you can gum up your carb/injectors pretty well. Any direct experience with this issue either way?

- wondering if recommended, no difference, etc. to start up motor after removing from lake and running 5 seconds max. Just to blow out exhaust tubes/pipes? Was recommended by Yamaha awhile back and I had a motor run with no repairs for many years doing that. I would think this would dry manifolds out more thoroughly...

- same tip of hat to Yamaha, but years ago, said to after use, spray down entire motor with a can of their silicone spray. Prevent moisture caused surface corrosion, dry rot, etc. Motor, wiring, hoses looked like new for many years doing that after every use. OK or not OK to do same thing on Mercruiser 350 motor?

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You won't want to run the boat out of the water because of the impeller you will fry it. If your in salt water or brackish you will want to flush the system so it doesn't rush out but for that they make a flush system.

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I wouldn't count on inland marinas having non-ethanol gas. The ethanol issue in gas is with fiberglass gas tanks, not the newer plastic tanks.

For the Yamaha, sounds like a 2 stroke PWC motor recommendation. Their exhaust is different & had water sprayed into exhaust tube to & through resonant chamber. Running the bu out of the water will not move any water through the engine - you need water coming in to do that & will damage your impeller. Dragging the boat up the ramp will drain most of the water out of the exhaust.

No experience with spraying the motor down after running, but the Merc 350 is more similar to your car motor than to the Yamaha 2 stroke. I know I had same recommendations with my Sea-Doo. I did spray down the motor occasionally, but noticed a build up of the silicone gunk in the bilge water, so I stopped. The motor stayed looking like new until I sold it 7 years after that without the spray down & I didn't have the buildup of silicone gunk in the bilge. I know it's still running well (total of 13 years)

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You can also help prevent any ethanol induced problems by regularly using the Sta-bil formulated for fuel with up to 10% ethanol. They call it their Marine formula.

Sta-bil for gasoline with Ethanol

The main problem with the ethanol blended gas is that it attracts water. Our fuel tanks are vented to the atmosphere, which provides a ready supply of humid air.

The Marine Sta-bil will help prevent this, as well as stabilizing the fuel for up to 12 months and it also claims to contain some fuel system cleaners.

I switched to this formula from the regualr Sta-bil last year when we saw most, if not all, fuel stations switch to a 10% ethanol blend.

You can get it at most boating supply stores (West Marine, etc.), as well as many auto parts stores.

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1) Marina gas will probably have ethanol, you can have problems with the ethanol eating away at fuel lines and if you are getting close to a carb rebulid, the E10 may push it over the edge. Your fuel tank will not be an issue.

2) This ain't no Yamaha, don't run it dry.

3) I use touch up paint once maybe 2 times a year on my motor, only ever use any rust preventative when winterizing.


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It is a requirement to post ethanol content on the pump, so you can determine that prior to filling.

You will need a fake-a-lake to run the boat out of the water. Blowing the water out of the exhaust pipes does not really accomplish anything, the critical components are the engine innards, but since these engines are not aluminum, you are okay unless running in salt water. If that is the case, then you will want to eliiminate that water via draining similar to winterizing.

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