Liquid Rollers

[shade]

Has anyone used the product called "Liquid Rollers". Its sold at West Marine, etc. Its a spray on product for carpeted trailer bunks.

My BU goes on and off the trailer just about every Sat. and Sun. from April through October. Usually by the end of the season the carpet on at least one bunk is worn through to the wood. I ALWAYS wet the bunks when launching and loading to prevent premature wear.

Just wondering if liquid rollers may extend the life of the carpet.

Thanks

[WaveMake'nLSV]

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....=liquid+rollers

[radioman]

Has anyone used the product called "Liquid Rollers". Its sold at West Marine, etc. Its a spray on product for carpeted trailer bunks.

My BU goes on and off the trailer just about every Sat. and Sun. from April through October. Usually by the end of the season the carpet on at least one bunk is worn through to the wood. I ALWAYS wet the bunks when launching and loading to prevent premature wear.

Just wondering if liquid rollers may extend the life of the carpet.

Thanks

It will help we launch 3 or 4 nights a week from april through october, with liquid rollers we got 2 years before wood.

[Pistol Pete]

I put double carpet on my bunks last time.

[HPskier]

I used silone spray on my bunks last year to save my carpet..... replaced my carpet anyway to get rid of the silicone. It's just to slick and I am sure similar to liquid rollers. It just wasn't worth me worrying everytime I put the boat in, even with the winch strap connected it put so much pressure on the winch that when I went to release it I had to worry about the winch arm going around and breaking my wrist. IMO it's easier just to back the trailer in a little farther and float it off. I agree the stuff does work very well...but almost to well. When you trailer your boat you also have to have somone in the front to catch it and connect the hook. If the driver tries to do it the boat just slides right back off the trailer before you get up there.

I put double carpet on my bunks last time.

[SacRiverRat]

I like the stuff - works great. As noted, it is pretty slick, so don't move the trailer without the boat attached.

[68Slalom]

We don't drive our boat onto the trailer like most people do, but our carpet is still like new after two seasons and launching about 20-25 times a season. I'm not sure how many times you trailer up each season but at the rate we are going I don't see us having to change our carpet bunks for a few more years.

Try backing your trailer into the water a little more, not sure if this helps or not

[shade]

When I start to back the trailer in deeper the boat slides down the front bunks as the rear of the boat floats off of the trailer. (My trailer bunks really only wear alot at the front of the 2 center bunks. The rest of the carpet looks new.) Also, if I put the trailer in deeper when loading the boat most of the time the boat won't center itself properly on the trailer.

[68Slalom]

When I start to back the trailer in deeper the boat slides down the front bunks as the rear of the boat floats off of the trailer. (My trailer bunks really only wear alot at the front of the 2 center bunks. The rest of the carpet looks new.) Also, if I put the trailer in deeper when loading the boat most of the time the boat won't center itself properly on the trailer.

We have that problem, I just have someone in the boat hold the trailer post guide and it usually is pretty close. I understand if your trying to load up yourself, we don't have to tow very far anymore so it isn't really a problem but try keeping the rudder straight when pulling out, that helps also

[shade]

68 Slalom,

Thanks for the reply. Keeping the rudder straight is probably the answer. Never thought of it before, maybe because I'm always driving the tow rig and not the boat.

[SacRiverRat]

When I start to back the trailer in deeper the boat slides down the front bunks as the rear of the boat floats off of the trailer. (My trailer bunks really only wear alot at the front of the 2 center bunks. The rest of the carpet looks new.) Also, if I put the trailer in deeper when loading the boat most of the time the boat won't center itself properly on the trailer.

We have that problem, I just have someone in the boat hold the trailer post guide and it usually is pretty close. I understand if your trying to load up yourself, we don't have to tow very far anymore so it isn't really a problem but try keeping the rudder straight when pulling out, that helps also

Does help if you have a "crew" of people that can muscle the boat.. my guide posts don't stick up far enough (they float up) to push the boat around, and I've found that if the trailer is deep enough for it to float on, it will not settle onto the trailer right, no matter how much you try and hold it.

Plus - having it a little shallow, and just powering up a little once it settles into place, is much faster. Just drive it up, clip the front, and have the driver drive out.

[68Slalom]

When I start to back the trailer in deeper the boat slides down the front bunks as the rear of the boat floats off of the trailer. (My trailer bunks really only wear alot at the front of the 2 center bunks. The rest of the carpet looks new.) Also, if I put the trailer in deeper when loading the boat most of the time the boat won't center itself properly on the trailer.

We have that problem, I just have someone in the boat hold the trailer post guide and it usually is pretty close. I understand if your trying to load up yourself, we don't have to tow very far anymore so it isn't really a problem but try keeping the rudder straight when pulling out, that helps also

Does help if you have a "crew" of people that can muscle the boat.. my guide posts don't stick up far enough (they float up) to push the boat around, and I've found that if the trailer is deep enough for it to float on, it will not settle onto the trailer right, no matter how much you try and hold it.

Plus - having it a little shallow, and just powering up a little once it settles into place, is much faster. Just drive it up, clip the front, and have the driver drive out.

Absolutely helps when you have more people, if someone sits on the back transom our guide posts are up about a foot higher than the boat. Not sure why you pole doesn't stick up high enough

[WaveMake'nLSV]

I had short pole syndrome and for very little $$$, I made some new ones and got custom pads/nylon covers. I do not cover the ends of the PVC (or you can cut a hole in the end of the cap) so as to not have the stupid thing float up.

I also took about a 4" or so piece of left over PVC and capped both ends. We then use it as a spacer. I do NOT like driving the boat on the trailer with muscle/shallow launch b/c my hull is solid RED. So I tend to load a bit deeper. My goal is to get the nose to stop 2' or so before the front roller, I then edge the trailer back a foot more and then drive it a mere foot to the roller. The boat is WAY floating on the back, but she just holds the "PVC spacer" between the rub rail and pole, holding the boat against it firmly. Then I just drive up slowly and it settles on the trailer BAM....within 1/4" each time without fail. We tease saying..."we going to patent and sell the little spacer"...

Kind of off topic, but thought I would add my $.02/worth,

Absolutely helps when you have more people, if someone sits on the back transom our guide posts are up about a foot higher than the boat. Not sure why you pole doesn't stick up high enough

[68Slalom]

I had short pole syndrome and for very little $$$, I made some new ones and got custom pads/nylon covers. I do not cover the ends of the PVC (or you can cut a hole in the end of the cap) so as to not have the stupid thing float up.

I also took about a 4" or so piece of left over PVC and capped both ends. We then use it as a spacer. I do NOT like driving the boat on the trailer with muscle/shallow launch b/c my hull is solid RED. So I tend to load a bit deeper. My goal is to get the nose to stop 2' or so before the front roller, I then edge the trailer back a foot more and then drive it a mere foot to the roller. The boat is WAY floating on the back, but she just holds the "PVC spacer" between the rub rail and pole, holding the boat against it firmly. Then I just drive up slowly and it settles on the trailer BAM....within 1/4" each time without fail. We tease saying..."we going to patent and sell the little spacer"...

Kind of off topic, but thought I would add my $.02/worth,

Very cool, that even makes it easy if your doing it by yourself. I would patent it if I was you, not just for malibu's make it for all trailers, it could be adjustable $$$$$ you never know!

[shade]

Wave Maken' LSV

I'd like to see a picture of your PVC spacers so I can better understand how they work.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

Now the secret is out!!! Some inventor is out there and going to steel my idea!

Man I just got the boat on the trailer PERFECT and then measured the distance from the POLE to the Rub Rail. Cut a piece of 3" PVC pipe to length (short by 1/4" or so to allow for the rubber caps). Then it is easily reproducible time and time again.

Hope this helps some,

Wave Maken' LSV

I'd like to see a picture of your PVC spacers so I can better understand how they work.

Edited January 20, 2009 by WaveMake'nLSV

[shade]

Now the secret is out!!! Some inventor is out there and going to steel my idea!

Man I just got the boat on the trailer PERFECT and then measured the distance from the POLE to the Rub Rail. Cut a piece of 3" PVC pipe to length (short by 1/4" or so to allow for the rubber caps). Then it is easily reproducible time and time again.

Hope this helps some,

I follow you now.

Wave Maken' LSV

I'd like to see a picture of your PVC spacers so I can better understand how they work.

[woody]

When I start to back the trailer in deeper the boat slides down the front bunks as the rear of the boat floats off of the trailer. (My trailer bunks really only wear alot at the front of the 2 center bunks. The rest of the carpet looks new.) Also, if I put the trailer in deeper when loading the boat most of the time the boat won't center itself properly on the trailer.

We have that problem, I just have someone in the boat hold the trailer post guide and it usually is pretty close. I understand if your trying to load up yourself, we don't have to tow very far anymore so it isn't really a problem but try keeping the rudder straight when pulling out, that helps also

Does help if you have a "crew" of people that can muscle the boat.. my guide posts don't stick up far enough (they float up) to push the boat around, and I've found that if the trailer is deep enough for it to float on, it will not settle onto the trailer right, no matter how much you try and hold it.

Plus - having it a little shallow, and just powering up a little once it settles into place, is much faster. Just drive it up, clip the front, and have the driver drive out.

that's us baby! 30 seconds on the ramp, in and out.

[Sunscape fan]

With my last Malibu (86 Skier) I always floated the boat on the trailer, hooked up the winch and pulled it out of the water. It was always in the same place. But with my new Malibu (07 Sunscape 23lsv) I tried floating it on the trailer and noticed that the eye hook was hitting the front bow stop. Also when I pulled the boat out of the water, the chine on the bottom of the hull near the middle of the boat would always be sitting ON the bunk, not beside it. I tried everything till my dealer finally told me I was putting the trailer in too deep. He told me to put it in till I could see just the top of the fender and then power the boat on. So I come up to the trailer gently, and then give it a bit of power and she goes on nice every time. (the first time I powered it on I scared the crap out of my wife cause I came on a bit too fast OOPS) But I have noticed carpet wear on the bunks which I don't like. I really don't want to use any silicone or any other product. Wouldn't the spacer get wedged between the boat and the guide pole causing damage? There has to be a better way to put the boat on the trailer without using power. I watched a guy with a 247 power on his trailer which was only a quarter of the way in the water. He obviously didn't know what he was doing cause the truck and trailer were bouncing all over the place and he finally had to get someone to back the trailer in further. It was a gong show.

[elan02]

For fourteen years I loaded my Centurion on my Cal. built DHL trailer. Ever time the boat would self center itself and away I would go. I could let it stay unstraped and head up a long steep ramp with on problem.That boat is gone. Now my new Malibu is nothing but a struggle too get lined-up. Most of the time I am bye myself.My new trailer has a funkie

roller in the front deal that works poorly. My old trailer had two large upright bumpers that you could drive into. I am not sure how to make the change ,but I think I will have a weld shop rework my new trailer to be set up like my old trailer. Fourteen years of simple counts for something. ya

[HPskier]

For fourteen years I loaded my Centurion on my Cal. built DHL trailer. Ever time the boat would self center itself and away I would go. I could let it stay unstraped and head up a long steep ramp with on problem.That boat is gone. Now my new Malibu is nothing but a struggle too get lined-up. Most of the time I am bye myself.My new trailer has a funkie

roller in the front deal that works poorly. My old trailer had two large upright bumpers that you could drive into. I am not sure how to make the change ,but I think I will have a weld shop rework my new trailer to be set up like my old trailer. Fourteen years of simple counts for something. ya

Search this sight for "boat buddy" and some have made some nice modifications to their trailer that allow it to go on straight and even with out the boat buddy it centers the boat nicely.