Changing coolant on closed system

[Schindawg]

Ok, I know this will go quicker the next time around, but I'm on my third weekend of winterizing (don't laugh, I had to chisel off my oil filter!). So, thus far I've changed the oil and filter, drained water from hoses, run RV antifreeze through the external water system, fogged the engine, pulled the impeller, pulled the two water drains on the Walters v-drive, emptied the headers using the quick disconnect. My next steps were to pull the water drain on the tranny, change the v-drive oil, change the tranny fluid, loosen the alternator to relieve tension on the belt, WD-40 the engine, disconnect the batteries and put her to bed. But, I thought I'd better test my coolant in the closed system first. It came in at good for only -5 degrees so I verified the accuracy of my tester by sucking up some new coolant in a jug. Yup. It read -48. Rats! Manuals say to let a shop bleed/replace your coolant. Has anyone done this? From my understanding, the coolant on my closed system also runs through my heater core. I loosened one of the return hoses at the water pump and a little bit of the green stuff leaked out. What do you think? Should I drain the block and then just add undiluted coolant until I get the protection I need? I called a shop and they're willing to do it for $75. How easy is this?

Thank you!!

[Hwood]

The cheapest solution would be to just drain it and leave empty for the winter. Many marinas still only drain in Wisconsin for winterizing. If you were really worried though, drain whatever you can out and replace with the undiluted stuff, doesn't get much easier.

Also, I would recommend using a silicone spray on the engine instead of WD-40.

[Schindawg]

Thanks Hwood. I thought about that last night - could just drain the block and blow out the heater core and sort it out in the spring. Have a new can of silicone spray - I'll use that instead of WD-40.

[VinRLX]

Or, as one of our venerable, long-past members would say: Use this.