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Dave K

Perkos and extra batteries

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Dave K

I have read quite a bit on the Perko selector, and please tell me if I am wrong or do I make any sense. It sounds like some people call the Perko selector, an isolator, and some call it a switch. In my mind there is a big difference.

Setup:

1 deep cycle battery for starting engine (underneath rear seat),

2 deep cycle batteries for my stereo (in cabin storage under windshield),

Objective:

Run stereo and not worry about killing the main starting battery

I suppose a hellraiser battery isolator would be a good choice, for the budget minded people like me, (and the fact we want to sell to upgrade), I was thinking why not go with a heavy duty 100 amp switch on the positive wire between main battery and the 2 batteries for the stereo. When you use the stereo and the engine is running (charging) leave the switch on, and if you want the stereo on, when the engine if off, set the switch to off !?

It seems with this very basic thinking the stereo batteries will charge when engine is on (and the switch on), and when the engine is not running the stereo cannot draw any power from the starting battery because the switch (in the off position) has not completed the circuit.

About the only inconvenance is turning the switch on or off.. manually. For those who use a perko switch, where do you have it mounted. Mounting it under a seat would certainly look clean but wouldn't it be inconveinent to remove a seat cushion every time you want to switch the switch?

Thanks for your time and thoughts....

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Bobby Light
I have read quite a bit on the Perko selector, and please tell me if I am wrong or do I make any sense. It sounds like some people call the Perko selector, an isolator, and some call it a switch. In my mind there is a big difference.

Setup:

1 deep cycle battery for starting engine (underneath rear seat),

2 deep cycle batteries for my stereo (in cabin storage under windshield),

Objective:

Run stereo and not worry about killing the main starting battery

I suppose a hellraiser battery isolator would be a good choice, for the budget minded people like me, (and the fact we want to sell to upgrade), I was thinking why not go with a heavy duty 100 amp switch on the positive wire between main battery and the 2 batteries for the stereo. When you use the stereo and the engine is running (charging) leave the switch on, and if you want the stereo on, when the engine if off, set the switch to off !?

It seems with this very basic thinking the stereo batteries will charge when engine is on (and the switch on), and when the engine is not running the stereo cannot draw any power from the starting battery because the switch (in the off position) has not completed the circuit.

About the only inconvenance is turning the switch on or off.. manually. For those who use a perko switch, where do you have it mounted. Mounting it under a seat would certainly look clean but wouldn't it be inconveinent to remove a seat cushion every time you want to switch the switch?

Thanks for your time and thoughts....

The perko is s selector switch that will combine or isolate the batteries so I don't know what you mean. If you're on a budget I don't know how much cheaper you can get than $40 for a perko. Mount it in the storage compartment with the 2 batteries.

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Dave K

Yes a Perko switch is $40, an isolator ie. hellraiser $ 150ish, and heavy duty on/off switch $20. i will try to dig up a pic of the switch I am referring to

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Malibuzer

Dave, I see what you are getting at with the single isolater, but for the extra $20 you get an easy to use multipole switch that can do it all for you. I would hook up the 2 stereo batteries in parallel and run them to the switch for battery 2 and then run the engine to switch position 1. Now you are hooked up to isolate or combine in an easy to use and install package. Also the perko is deigned for a marine application. Just my two cents.

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Dave K

Could you not use one of these?? I was thinking of mounting it under the passenger side or back seat facing out so it is easy to get at to turn on and off? The perko certainly looks pro like but I wouldn't want it mounted in the open cabin area.

180amp_battery_switch.jpg

Edited by Dave K

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Dave K

One more question for the pros,

I am moving the starting battery to underneath the side seat. Q. What gauge of wire do I need to run up to the 2 stereo batteries in the front storage area? Does the ground have to be the same gauge also?

Thanks

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Chia
I fit 3 batteries, amps and a sub in the passenger storage compartment. It's not a show install but I thought I would have pulled it all out and sold the boat by now. Dontknow.gif

I use a Stinger solenoid for install and forget switching,turn the ignition key off and the batteries are isolated, start the boat and they are all charging. It's worked for 4 years with heavy stereo use. Others like more complicated and more expensive versions that work great also.

this is pasted from another discussion. I went with the stinger but have not installed it yet.

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Dave K

Now that seems to be the ticket ! No manual switching. Gotta like that idea

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jetskipro550

I have seen Perko switches for $29

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kaiasdad
I have read quite a bit on the Perko selector, and please tell me if I am wrong or do I make any sense. It sounds like some people call the Perko selector, an isolator, and some call it a switch. In my mind there is a big difference.

Setup:

1 deep cycle battery for starting engine (underneath rear seat),

2 deep cycle batteries for my stereo (in cabin storage under windshield),

Objective:

Run stereo and not worry about killing the main starting battery

I suppose a hellraiser battery isolator would be a good choice, for the budget minded people like me, (and the fact we want to sell to upgrade), I was thinking why not go with a heavy duty 100 amp switch on the positive wire between main battery and the 2 batteries for the stereo. When you use the stereo and the engine is running (charging) leave the switch on, and if you want the stereo on, when the engine if off, set the switch to off !?

It seems with this very basic thinking the stereo batteries will charge when engine is on (and the switch on), and when the engine is not running the stereo cannot draw any power from the starting battery because the switch (in the off position) has not completed the circuit.

About the only inconvenance is turning the switch on or off.. manually. For those who use a perko switch, where do you have it mounted. Mounting it under a seat would certainly look clean but wouldn't it be inconveinent to remove a seat cushion every time you want to switch the switch?

Thanks for your time and thoughts....

I just had my whole stereo system redone and the installer recommended a 4 gauge kit with a active capacitor (this prevents the amps from draining 1 or both of batteries even with the engine off). I have 2 1300 amp batteries in the boat. I'm running 8 6 1/2" component cerwin vegas and 1 10" kicker subwoofer with 2 amps and a total of 1500 watts. I'm extremely happy with the effeciency of this setup and the system will rock the lake all day long and the boat starts like a champ at the end of the day.

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Bobby Light
I have read quite a bit on the Perko selector, and please tell me if I am wrong or do I make any sense. It sounds like some people call the Perko selector, an isolator, and some call it a switch. In my mind there is a big difference.

Setup:

1 deep cycle battery for starting engine (underneath rear seat),

2 deep cycle batteries for my stereo (in cabin storage under windshield),

Objective:

Run stereo and not worry about killing the main starting battery

I suppose a hellraiser battery isolator would be a good choice, for the budget minded people like me, (and the fact we want to sell to upgrade), I was thinking why not go with a heavy duty 100 amp switch on the positive wire between main battery and the 2 batteries for the stereo. When you use the stereo and the engine is running (charging) leave the switch on, and if you want the stereo on, when the engine if off, set the switch to off !?

It seems with this very basic thinking the stereo batteries will charge when engine is on (and the switch on), and when the engine is not running the stereo cannot draw any power from the starting battery because the switch (in the off position) has not completed the circuit.

About the only inconvenance is turning the switch on or off.. manually. For those who use a perko switch, where do you have it mounted. Mounting it under a seat would certainly look clean but wouldn't it be inconveinent to remove a seat cushion every time you want to switch the switch?

Thanks for your time and thoughts....

I just had my whole stereo system redone and the installer recommended a 4 gauge kit with a active capacitor (this prevents the amps from draining 1 or both of batteries even with the engine off). I have 2 1300 amp batteries in the boat. I'm running 8 6 1/2" component cerwin vegas and 1 10" kicker subwoofer with 2 amps and a total of 1500 watts. I'm extremely happy with the effeciency of this setup and the system will rock the lake all day long and the boat starts like a champ at the end of the day.

Hate to break it to you but a capacitor will do nothing to prevent your batteries from draining, your installer gave you some bad information. It would have to generate it's own voltage for that to be true. Most people don't use capacitors on boats, they just use more batteries.

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txwakejunkie

I have a 5 farad cap just for trying to keep the voltage from droping or spiking( to much). If the batts are going dead they are going dead and taking the cap with them. Im with 06vlx, your guy gave you the wrong info. More batteries is always the best choice for prolonged listening time. I will be installing another batt in the near future for starting only and using the existing two for stereo use.

Edited by txwakejunkie

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bigD
Now that seems to be the ticket ! No manual switching. Gotta like that idea

One option when using the solenoid, if you don't want to switch it with the ignition and want a little more control use this configuration or a variation of it to fit your needs.

post-149-1210087212_thumb.jpg

Edited by bigD

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CDA

I had the Solenoid in my old boat with two batteries (one stereo, other starting) and it was nice to just turn off the boat and listen to the stereo without thinking about the starter battery going dead.

My new boat has a Perko, but I have a much larger system and I am running 3 batteries for the stereo and 1 for the starting duties. It is not a problem for me to lift the seat and throw the switch to the stereo only batteries if I am going to be floating for awhile with just the tunes cranked.

CDA Out

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bigD
I had the Solenoid in my old boat with two batteries (one stereo, other starting) and it was nice to just turn off the boat and listen to the stereo without thinking about the starter battery going dead.

My new boat has a Perko, but I have a much larger system and I am running 3 batteries for the stereo and 1 for the starting duties. It is not a problem for me to lift the seat and throw the switch to the stereo only batteries if I am going to be floating for awhile with just the tunes cranked.

CDA Out

Perkos work fine. like I've said before, all the fishing boats have them so they must work, and I'm sure it would never accidentally slip someones mind to switch it to isolate the audio batteries. I'm sure I would forget at some point so I pulled the Perko before my boat hit the water.

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