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Surfin247

95 Echelon w/ Mercruiser 350 Magnum Carbed

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Surfin247

Looking to buy a 95 Echelon Closed Bow with the Mercruiser 350 Magnum Carbeurated. Anyone with Pro's and Con's. 412 HRS. any reviews and opinions

appreciated. It will be used primarily for skiing. I am mostly concerned about the engine. It has the raw water pump that has to be removed to replace the impellar. Any other tidbits of knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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G!!!!!!
Looking to buy a 95 Echelon Closed Bow with the Mercruiser 350 Magnum Carbeurated. Anyone with Pro's and Con's. 412 HRS. any reviews and opinions

appreciated. It will be used primarily for skiing. I am mostly concerned about the engine. It has the raw water pump that has to be removed to replace the impellar. Any other tidbits of knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I've had mine for 15 years and no cons to think of. That engine has been extremely reliable and still runs strong.

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Surfin247

G!!!, How do you change your impellar.

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footnlongline

I basically have the same motor with multi port EFI. Get a manual to replace the impeller cause it's easy to do but difficult to explain. I think you can down load it off of Mercruiser's web site. BTW that impeller is a long lifer, so you don't need to change it that often. Your motor is extremely reliable but a little low on power. I found that it responds very well to a a O.J. 13x13 4 blade prop for over all performance. Good luck

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Surfin247

Has anyone swapped out the OEM plastic housing raw water pump with a Jabsco alloy pump. Is it even possible with the serpentine V belt. Engine is Mercruiser 350 Magnum. Anyone with a carbed one? Any issue with vapor lock? It has the water/fuel seperator. Also is there a fuel filter back by the tank/gas intake. Where is the fuel pump? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be checking the boat out tomorrow.

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G!!!!!!
G!!!, How do you change your impellar.

The impellar housing is right in front and you need to loosen the belt and loosen the housing bolts on th back of it and break the housing loose to get the impellar out. Not much to explain, its pretty straight forward. The most challenging part is to get the new impellar back in the housing. I just use some oil off of the dipstick and with a little muscle and persistence it gose back in and bolts up. I had one go out on me at the ramp once, and I was back in business in less that 45 mins.

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Woodski

I have one and really like it and plan on keeping it for a while. I have not seen any of the newer boats really make a big step in wake quality. Have made several changes, but the boat is very solid, reliable and a great option. The SV23 hull is what put Malibu on the map and it came out on the Echelon in '93 and is still basically in use. That boat is probably the best combination ski / barefoot option on the market (Echelon / Response). Echelon was the top boat of that era, top of the Malibu line and won several boat of the year awards in the 90's.

Servicing is pretty simple, the Mercruiser is also a very reliable and well done. The easiest way to change the impeller is to just pull the whole thing off and swap on the bench. The plastic and brass housings are interchangeable. The plastic one works fine and is very economical.

There can be some vapor lock issues on a carbed one, I have not had any, that has a lot to do with the fuel you have in the boat. You will need to adjust the choke twice a year as it does not quite compensate enough for temperature swings between early spring and mid summer temps. Simple to do and it takes two minutes. It only affects start up and warm up, then no issue.

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Surfin247
I have one and really like it and plan on keeping it for a while. I have not seen any of the newer boats really make a big step in wake quality. Have made several changes, but the boat is very solid, reliable and a great option. The SV23 hull is what put Malibu on the map and it came out on the Echelon in '93 and is still basically in use. That boat is probably the best combination ski / barefoot option on the market (Echelon / Response). Echelon was the top boat of that era, top of the Malibu line and won several boat of the year awards in the 90's.

Servicing is pretty simple, the Mercruiser is also a very reliable and well done. The easiest way to change the impeller is to just pull the whole thing off and swap on the bench. The plastic and brass housings are interchangeable. The plastic one works fine and is very economical.

There can be some vapor lock issues on a carbed one, I have not had any, that has a lot to do with the fuel you have in the boat. You will need to adjust the choke twice a year as it does not quite compensate enough for temperature swings between early spring and mid summer temps. Simple to do and it takes two minutes. It only affects start up and warm up, then no issue.

Do you have the brass housing or did you stay with the plastic. If plastic, have you had any problems with it sticking to the housing. Also, what spark plugs do you use.

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Surfin247
I have one and really like it and plan on keeping it for a while. I have not seen any of the newer boats really make a big step in wake quality. Have made several changes, but the boat is very solid, reliable and a great option. The SV23 hull is what put Malibu on the map and it came out on the Echelon in '93 and is still basically in use. That boat is probably the best combination ski / barefoot option on the market (Echelon / Response). Echelon was the top boat of that era, top of the Malibu line and won several boat of the year awards in the 90's.

Servicing is pretty simple, the Mercruiser is also a very reliable and well done. The easiest way to change the impeller is to just pull the whole thing off and swap on the bench. The plastic and brass housings are interchangeable. The plastic one works fine and is very economical.

There can be some vapor lock issues on a carbed one, I have not had any, that has a lot to do with the fuel you have in the boat. You will need to adjust the choke twice a year as it does not quite compensate enough for temperature swings between early spring and mid summer temps. Simple to do and it takes two minutes. It only affects start up and warm up, then no issue.

Picking up the boat tomorrow. It has sat for about 1 1/2 years with very little use. I'm going to change the plugs,cap rotor,wires,impeller,fuel/water seperator and adjust packing gland and carb and grease the steering and throttle cables. Anything else I might have forgotten. Is there another fuel filter besides the seperator. Side note: Do you run this boat with some weight in the bow for skiing. Thanks for any suggestions.

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BillFooter

One of my buddies has a 1995 Echelon. He has had problem with the computron. He has some type of fuel problem that seems like vapor lock once in a while. The boat is a beautiful design and very versatile.

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Woodski

I changed the original (plastic) housing with a replacement one. No problems sticking, but I pull the impeller in the off season. I think they are AC MR43T or Champion RV8C, I have different heads so I use a different plug. One of the more important things to look at and check is the exhaust manifold gaskets, make sure no leaks. I would probably change the thermostat since the boat has not been used for a while, get a marine grade unit. I do not add any weight for skiing, just a spotter that sometimes has to adjust seating position. The Echelon is well balanced for side to side wake. Since you did mention dialing the wake, I keep my tank on the low side for fuel and remove the rear seat. Anything you do to reduce weight on this boat helps the wake but a slight increase at the front can help but it is quite minor.

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Sunsetter95
Has anyone swapped out the OEM plastic housing raw water pump with a Jabsco alloy pump. Is it even possible with the serpentine V belt. Engine is Mercruiser 350 Magnum. Anyone with a carbed one? Any issue with vapor lock? It has the water/fuel seperator. Also is there a fuel filter back by the tank/gas intake. Where is the fuel pump? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be checking the boat out tomorrow.

I have installed the Jabsco pump on mine. The plastic housing seemed to crack every two seasons anyway. No issues.

I have a V belt on mine and it is carborated. I am in Arizona with summer temps in the 110's. I have had no issue with vapor lock. I have only chaged out my water/fule seperator. I don't think there is another on the older boats but I could be misinformed. My fuel pump is on the lower right front of fo the engine block. It is a mechanical marine fuel pump.

I see that you boutght it so enjoy!

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Surfin247
Has anyone swapped out the OEM plastic housing raw water pump with a Jabsco alloy pump. Is it even possible with the serpentine V belt. Engine is Mercruiser 350 Magnum. Anyone with a carbed one? Any issue with vapor lock? It has the water/fuel seperator. Also is there a fuel filter back by the tank/gas intake. Where is the fuel pump? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be checking the boat out tomorrow.

I have installed the Jabsco pump on mine. The plastic housing seemed to crack every two seasons anyway. No issues.

I have a V belt on mine and it is carborated. I am in Arizona with summer temps in the 110's. I have had no issue with vapor lock. I have only chaged out my water/fule seperator. I don't think there is another on the older boats but I could be misinformed. My fuel pump is on the lower right front of fo the engine block. It is a mechanical marine fuel pump.

I see that you boutght it so enjoy!

Thanks for the info. If you have any other advice, it would be greatly appreciated. It is a closed bow. I think a Rochester carb. I also had a question about the packing gland. Can you use the GFO fiber packing. The packing gland looks different than the one I have on my 2005 Vride. Any info on how to change would be great. Boat is 1995 malibu Echelon Mercruiser Power pack Carbed. Closed bow.

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Surfin247
Has anyone swapped out the OEM plastic housing raw water pump with a Jabsco alloy pump. Is it even possible with the serpentine V belt. Engine is Mercruiser 350 Magnum. Anyone with a carbed one? Any issue with vapor lock? It has the water/fuel seperator. Also is there a fuel filter back by the tank/gas intake. Where is the fuel pump? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be checking the boat out tomorrow.

I have installed the Jabsco pump on mine. The plastic housing seemed to crack every two seasons anyway. No issues.

I have a V belt on mine and it is carborated. I am in Arizona with summer temps in the 110's. I have had no issue with vapor lock. I have only chaged out my water/fule seperator. I don't think there is another on the older boats but I could be misinformed. My fuel pump is on the lower right front of fo the engine block. It is a mechanical marine fuel pump.

I see that you boutght it so enjoy!

Forgot to ask what plugs do you use, oil and oil filter.

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Sunsetter95

I will have to look at the plugs. I haven't changed them since I put the engine in... this may be going on the forth season.

I broke the engine in on good oil, then to a syn blend, now Mobil One oil and a Fram Tough Guard or Mobil One filter.

My carb is a carter also. The electric choke heating element pulls it off real fast. Mine starts really easy as soon as it gets fuel up to it. The choke is rarely on very long if any.

I had an oil issue coming out of the valve cover vents. After inspection I found that the boat has no PCV valve. So I installed on. No more oil on the engine. It is clean and dry. When the carb was off, I drilled and tapped the wedge shaped spacer on the back side. When the drill just broke through the surface, I stopped and then drilled from the outside to open the holes up a bit, then just cleaned it all up to be nice and smooth. Put the PCV in the cover and connected it to the 1/2"NPT nipple I put in the plate. The other I left connected to the arrestor. If you do this be carful when drilling and tapping the hole.

I have never changed mine. I was dripping a bit more than it should, but I just adjusted it and it is fine. I would think the GFO packing would work. Another member may have some experience with this. I have a pic at home but not here.

If you have any electrical issues where things are acting funny, check your grounds. I added a junction block for power and ground under the dash to provide extra connecting points for acc.

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bretski75

You will be really happy with the boat. I have a 97 with the Scorpion. I havn't had any vapor lock issues but I have been told it can be an issue if you run really hard and then stop and shut down.

going on 11 years, all I have done is plugs, wires, cap, rotor, impeller, trans flush,

If it has been sitting there that long I would try to get as much gas out of there as you can, and maybe change the trans fluid, which is a pain.

Awesome boat, I keep telling people that I would replace it if they made a boat that was as good as the one I have.

I use Merc oil and filters, I have thought about synthetic, but 11 years with no issues, why change what has been working.

Edited by bretski75

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Surfin247
You will be really happy with the boat. I have a 97 with the Scorpion. I havn't had any vapor lock issues but I have been told it can be an issue if you run really hard and then stop and shut down.

going on 11 years, all I have done is plugs, wires, cap, rotor, impeller, trans flush,

If it has been sitting there that long I would try to get as much gas out of there as you can, and maybe change the trans fluid, which is a pain.

Awesome boat, I keep telling people that I would replace it if they made a boat that was as good as the one I have.

I use Merc oil and filters, I have thought about synthetic, but 11 years with no issues, why change what has been working.

Thank you for the info. Brought her home last niight. Spent all day changing everything and cleaning. Still have to wax. The boat was in great shape. Engine looks new. I love the threads on the dipstick to pump out the engine oil. Just like my old Sea Ray. Tranny fluid change was not to bad. It was a frothy pink not red. I think it had some water through absorption in it. Manual says 2 quarts, I put 1.75 qts. Have to run it to see if enough. Put 5 qts of engine oil,dipstick read high, but again I haven't run it. Another question, changed water/fuel seperator and replaced with new one, but I didn't fill it .I just screwed it on empty. Is that OK? How does it fill up. I am used to EFI. I forgot how to start carbs. Choke? Any suggestions would be helpful.

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Surfin247
I will have to look at the plugs. I haven't changed them since I put the engine in... this may be going on the forth season.

I broke the engine in on good oil, then to a syn blend, now Mobil One oil and a Fram Tough Guard or Mobil One filter.

My carb is a carter also. The electric choke heating element pulls it off real fast. Mine starts really easy as soon as it gets fuel up to it. The choke is rarely on very long if any.

I had an oil issue coming out of the valve cover vents. After inspection I found that the boat has no PCV valve. So I installed on. No more oil on the engine. It is clean and dry. When the carb was off, I drilled and tapped the wedge shaped spacer on the back side. When the drill just broke through the surface, I stopped and then drilled from the outside to open the holes up a bit, then just cleaned it all up to be nice and smooth. Put the PCV in the cover and connected it to the 1/2"NPT nipple I put in the plate. The other I left connected to the arrestor. If you do this be carful when drilling and tapping the hole.

I have never changed mine. I was dripping a bit more than it should, but I just adjusted it and it is fine. I would think the GFO packing would work. Another member may have some experience with this. I have a pic at home but not here.

If you have any electrical issues where things are acting funny, check your grounds. I added a junction block for power and ground under the dash to provide extra connecting points for acc.

My engine cover has 2 plastic right elbows through 2 rubber grommets. It looks like PCV, but there just plastic w/ hoses leading to flame arrestor. Could I just use those holes and put in a pcv valve or are what I have good enough to relieve pressure. Didnt put in GFO packing, the previous owner never tighten down the packing nut. There is still plenty of room to tighten. Cleaned the carb. a lot of gunk. Going to run it on old plugs then replace. Adjust the carb, set timing, then idle and I should be good to go for a long time.

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Surfin247

Any one with any more suggestions? I want to finish her up, so I'll be ready by next weekend. Have a nice his and hers weekend. Echelon/ski- Ride/Surf. Thank again for everyone's help.

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bretski75

I have never put additional weight in the bow but I do have a few things up there. I don't think you need it though.

I assume you have a fake a lake and are able to run the boat out of the water to check of leaks and just see how she idles. As far as the fuel filter goes I don't fill it up but I do have EFI. Filling it up with gas can't be a bad idea, but probably not necessary.

Other suggestions,

303 is the bomb, My vinyl is coming into teenage years and is still in good shape.

Make sure your plugs are in and your intake hoses are tight

when you replace your impellor use dish soap, its easier to get in and it will minimize friction with an empty housing

keep on the teak , I use Amazon's teak oil, nothing nicer than a well maintained teak deck

Make sure you post some pictures. I would love to see it.

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Sunsetter95
I will have to look at the plugs. I haven't changed them since I put the engine in... this may be going on the forth season.

I broke the engine in on good oil, then to a syn blend, now Mobil One oil and a Fram Tough Guard or Mobil One filter.

My carb is a carter also. The electric choke heating element pulls it off real fast. Mine starts really easy as soon as it gets fuel up to it. The choke is rarely on very long if any.

I had an oil issue coming out of the valve cover vents. After inspection I found that the boat has no PCV valve. So I installed on. No more oil on the engine. It is clean and dry. When the carb was off, I drilled and tapped the wedge shaped spacer on the back side. When the drill just broke through the surface, I stopped and then drilled from the outside to open the holes up a bit, then just cleaned it all up to be nice and smooth. Put the PCV in the cover and connected it to the 1/2"NPT nipple I put in the plate. The other I left connected to the arrestor. If you do this be carful when drilling and tapping the hole.

I have never changed mine. I was dripping a bit more than it should, but I just adjusted it and it is fine. I would think the GFO packing would work. Another member may have some experience with this. I have a pic at home but not here.

If you have any electrical issues where things are acting funny, check your grounds. I added a junction block for power and ground under the dash to provide extra connecting points for acc.

My engine cover has 2 plastic right elbows through 2 rubber grommets. It looks like PCV, but there just plastic w/ hoses leading to flame arrestor. Could I just use those holes and put in a pcv valve or are what I have good enough to relieve pressure. Didnt put in GFO packing, the previous owner never tighten down the packing nut. There is still plenty of room to tighten. Cleaned the carb. a lot of gunk. Going to run it on old plugs then replace. Adjust the carb, set timing, then idle and I should be good to go for a long time.

You can use the plastic OEM tube on one side, but the one you replace for the PCV must have a reinforced rubber line for PCV's. There is vacuum on that side and the plastic will collapse. I put the PCV on the right cover.

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Surfin247
I will have to look at the plugs. I haven't changed them since I put the engine in... this may be going on the forth season.

I broke the engine in on good oil, then to a syn blend, now Mobil One oil and a Fram Tough Guard or Mobil One filter.

My carb is a carter also. The electric choke heating element pulls it off real fast. Mine starts really easy as soon as it gets fuel up to it. The choke is rarely on very long if any.

I had an oil issue coming out of the valve cover vents. After inspection I found that the boat has no PCV valve. So I installed on. No more oil on the engine. It is clean and dry. When the carb was off, I drilled and tapped the wedge shaped spacer on the back side. When the drill just broke through the surface, I stopped and then drilled from the outside to open the holes up a bit, then just cleaned it all up to be nice and smooth. Put the PCV in the cover and connected it to the 1/2"NPT nipple I put in the plate. The other I left connected to the arrestor. If you do this be carful when drilling and tapping the hole.

I have never changed mine. I was dripping a bit more than it should, but I just adjusted it and it is fine. I would think the GFO packing would work. Another member may have some experience with this. I have a pic at home but not here.

If you have any electrical issues where things are acting funny, check your grounds. I added a junction block for power and ground under the dash to provide extra connecting points for acc.

My engine cover has 2 plastic right elbows through 2 rubber grommets. It looks like PCV, but there just plastic w/ hoses leading to flame arrestor. Could I just use those holes and put in a pcv valve or are what I have good enough to relieve pressure. Didnt put in GFO packing, the previous owner never tighten down the packing nut. There is still plenty of room to tighten. Cleaned the carb. a lot of gunk. Going to run it on old plugs then replace. Adjust the carb, set timing, then idle and I should be good to go for a long time.

You can use the plastic OEM tube on one side, but the one you replace for the PCV must have a reinforced rubber line for PCV's. There is vacuum on that side and the plastic will collapse. I put the PCV on the right cover.

Thanks, I'll do the same. I can't use the oil cap on the right side because the manifold is in the way, so I'll put the pcv there.

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Surfin247
I have never put additional weight in the bow but I do have a few things up there. I don't think you need it though.

I assume you have a fake a lake and are able to run the boat out of the water to check of leaks and just see how she idles. As far as the fuel filter goes I don't fill it up but I do have EFI. Filling it up with gas can't be a bad idea, but probably not necessary.

Other suggestions,

303 is the bomb, My vinyl is coming into teenage years and is still in good shape.

Make sure your plugs are in and your intake hoses are tight

when you replace your impellor use dish soap, its easier to get in and it will minimize friction with an empty housing

keep on the teak , I use Amazon's teak oil, nothing nicer than a well maintained teak deck

Make sure you post some pictures. I would love to see it.

Thanks for all the ideas. The only bad thing about the boat is the teak platform. It is a goner. When I get some dough I'll buy a blank and apply the old brackets.

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Sunsetter95

Is it broken or have dryrot?

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Surfin247
Is it broken or have dryrot?
Cracked at the edge, sags in the middle and wood is pitted and grooved. I assume this is dry rot. I've always had fiberglass. It is not smooth like my

teak benches.

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