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I think I got it figured out...


bmontini

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Mine if all of us here on TMC just email you our pictures to process?

I'd be interested in knowing more about how it's done.

PC/Mac?

What version of Photoshop? etc.

Thanks,

Trevor

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Many photo editors will do that, even the relatively simple ones. And you don't need to pull it from video, a burst sequence will do it if you've got a fast camera. For most people Photoshop is way overkill, PS Elements is usually more than enough to fill the bill.

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Brian just seen your pics in your gallery. Your 08 23lsv is going to be one sweet looking boat.

Thanks!!! we can't wait. It was so cool to have the VP of Operations offer us a custom color scheme on our boat!! Did you notice that it is a Progressive AND Classic blend? I can't wait to see all of that black flake in the sun!!!

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Thumbup.gif

Mine if all of us here on TMC just email you our pictures to process?

I'd be interested in knowing more about how it's done.

PC/Mac?

What version of Photoshop? etc.

Thanks,

Trevor

No worries. It was pretty simple actually.

- Pics were taken, freehand (no tripod) on a Digital SLR, while I was driving the boat with my knee (5fps burst speed) 8.1MPixel (ok that is the cool part)

- Photoshop CS3 (any version should work though!) on my work laptop (Dell Latitude 810, P4, 1GB ram, etc)

- Then I opended ALL the photos in photoshop

- make a new file as well (like 12000 pixels wide by 2500 tall)

- Take the last picture taken, paste it into the left side of your "new" file

- Use the selection "lasso" tool with a 50px feather to select just in front (left side of picture) of the rider and everything to the right

- copy and paste into new picture. Use the opacity setting to fade it out and align with the picture to the left (use the trees or something)

- set the opacity back to 100%

- repeat for all of the pictures in the series.

- Flatten the image (to save memory and such)

- Rotate by 1 or 2 degrees if needed to even out the horizon

- crop

Pitfalls when taking pics, don't zoom in too tight. leave some sky and water so you have stuff to crop out..

Fast shutter speeds if you can...

PM me if you want me to try this for you.. As long as I don't get overloaded, I would love to do a few for you guys! PM me for my email address and I will see what I can do..

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very cool.

im treating myself to a DSLR sometime soon (probably a nikon D40X). Im hoping to do some photoshop stuff too. ive never seen good slalom sequences like what you can capture in wakeboarding, probably cause its harder to capture well and the images would overlay, so ill try and have a play this summer. if i do ill post them up.

gate pullouts, preturns and wake crossings would work i think. would be really good and instructive to show the movements and positions at different points in the course.

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very cool.

im treating myself to a DSLR sometime soon (probably a nikon D40X). Im hoping to do some photoshop stuff too. ive never seen good slalom sequences like what you can capture in wakeboarding, probably cause its harder to capture well and the images would overlay, so ill try and have a play this summer. if i do ill post them up.

gate pullouts, preturns and wake crossings would work i think. would be really good and instructive to show the movements and positions at different points in the course.

If you are shopping for a new camera, the nikons are good, I personally have a Canon 30D, but if i had to do it again, I would seriously consider the canon 40D (10.1mp, 6.5 fps - up to 75 continuous JPEGs) and Live View (can see image on LCD instead of ONLY through the viewfinder).

Make sure you get your favorite zoom range lens in a low F-stop if you do a lot of shots in variable lighting conditions. For outdoors in the bright sun, almost anything will do..

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If you are shopping for a new camera, the nikons are good, I personally have a Canon 30D, but if i had to do it again, I would seriously consider the canon 40D (10.1mp, 6.5 fps - up to 75 continuous JPEGs) and Live View (can see image on LCD instead of ONLY through the viewfinder).

Got myself a Canon 40D with 17-85 image stablised lens a couple of weeks ago. It's very cool toy & wickedly fast. Haven't had much chance to try it in boat yet but seems very promising as the focusing is fantastic.

Huge step up from our little 4.1MP Sony Cybershot. It was next to useless in the boat

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My brother just bought some Nikon 10.1 MP DSLR camera with some crazy fast burst times. I don't know much about cameras, but I do like the idea of being able to snap about 30 pics as someone crosses the wake! Clap.gif

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It's hard to beat the dslr's out on the market today. Crazy fast, and amazing quality of pics. Here's one I took a few years ago with a Nikon D200. I am definitely not a Photoshop expert, but it only took about 15 minutes or so to put all the photos together and extract the rider out of each. Fun Stuff

Bryan

FrontRoll-Sequence-final.jpg

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If you are shopping for a new camera, the nikons are good, I personally have a Canon 30D, but if i had to do it again, I would seriously consider the canon 40D (10.1mp, 6.5 fps - up to 75 continuous JPEGs) and Live View (can see image on LCD instead of ONLY through the viewfinder).

Got myself a Canon 40D with 17-85 image stablised lens a couple of weeks ago. It's very cool toy & wickedly fast. Haven't had much chance to try it in boat yet but seems very promising as the focusing is fantastic.

Drool.gifDrool.gifDrool.gif 6.5fps.. NICE!

The fastest I know of is the new 10fps Canon

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Here's one I took a few years ago with a Nikon D200. I am definitely not a Photoshop expert, but it only took about 15 minutes or so to put all the photos together and extract the rider out of each. Fun Stuff

Bryan

Very cool. I wish some of my friends got some wicked air... much cooler pic that way!!

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very cool.

im treating myself to a DSLR sometime soon (probably a nikon D40X). Im hoping to do some photoshop stuff too. ive never seen good slalom sequences like what you can capture in wakeboarding, probably cause its harder to capture well and the images would overlay, so ill try and have a play this summer. if i do ill post them up.

gate pullouts, preturns and wake crossings would work i think. would be really good and instructive to show the movements and positions at different points in the course.

If you are shopping for a new camera, the nikons are good, I personally have a Canon 30D, but if i had to do it again, I would seriously consider the canon 40D (10.1mp, 6.5 fps - up to 75 continuous JPEGs) and Live View (can see image on LCD instead of ONLY through the viewfinder).

Make sure you get your favorite zoom range lens in a low F-stop if you do a lot of shots in variable lighting conditions. For outdoors in the bright sun, almost anything will do..

thanks for the tip. i havnt really looked at the canons much. for value for money i dont think i can beat what ive been offered price wise. the d40x (10.1mpix) with a 50-300mm vibration reduction lens and a smaller 18-50. i think with that amount of zoom the VR lens would be great for skiing pics.

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http://picasaweb.google.com/dizzyg/SequenceShots

I've done a few using the same type of method just for fun. Some are better than others as I usually do them in the car on days I don't drive the carpool and then it's sun glare and bouncy, but I do what I can in the time I have.

I use a method very similar to that described above, it took me a few tries to figure the steps out but I can usually knock a decent one out in half an hour if I am not distracted.

I use a Digital Rebel XT and you really don't want to use an auto mode as it might change the coloring or ISO speeds on you between pictures. Changing the coloring, exposure and things like that between each sequence in the shot is really annoying.

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http://picasaweb.google.com/dizzyg/SequenceShots

I've done a few using the same type of method just for fun. Some are better than others as I usually do them in the car on days I don't drive the carpool and then it's sun glare and bouncy, but I do what I can in the time I have.

I use a method very similar to that described above, it took me a few tries to figure the steps out but I can usually knock a decent one out in half an hour if I am not distracted.

I use a Digital Rebel XT and you really don't want to use an auto mode as it might change the coloring or ISO speeds on you between pictures. Changing the coloring, exposure and things like that between each sequence in the shot is really annoying.

Nice work!! I knew someone else must have played with this... nice work though! Rockon.gif

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