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Removing spark plugs on a 383


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I posted this last year but am still struggling with this. I would rather spray the fogging oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes as opposed to spraying through the intake side. I just can't figure out a good way to get the plugs out. One gear head recommended I purchase a bunch of box wrenches, have them all cut and re-welded at different angles and hope one will work. He also mentioned grinding down the steal around the boxed end. I have not tried this yet cuz I have to believe there is an easier way. Any ideas, I am winterizing tomorrow!

Thanks.

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I don't understand...is there some super tight clearance issue? A regular spark plug socket can't slide over the plug?

There's gotta be a way to get them out, they're not "forever" plugs. Can you show me a pic.?

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Everything I have ever read about putting fogging oil directly into the chamber is NOT a good idea and can cause serious issues. I know based on what I have read I will never do it.

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If done correctly, there is no problem with fogging through the spark plug hole. Pete, I would imagine the HH has performance headers on it. And like on a car, it gets difficult to change plugs because the exhaust tube blocks access with a socket.

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If you are talking about the rear plugs or should I say front plugs on a backwords engine Biggrin.gif , I used an open end wrench on top of the shortest plug socket I could find in my tools. You probably have sockets with a hex on top to accept the open end wrench.

Edited by LS-One
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I don't understand...is there some super tight clearance issue? A regular spark plug socket can't slide over the plug?

There's gotta be a way to get them out, they're not "forever" plugs. Can you show me a pic.?

Yes the exhaust manifolds don't give you enough clearance to get a socket over the sparkplugs and there is not even enough room for a box wrench. I was able to fight with them long enough (and after a few bloody knuckles) with an open ended wrench last year to get them out but it took 2 hours.

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I can say from experience that if fogging oil is sprayed incorrectly through the throttle body it can cause issues as well. Last year, according to Peter, I was a little too liberal with the fogging oil and that's what most likely led to the failure of my TPS. Peter told me to spray just a very small amount of oil directly into the hole in the butterfly valves (don't manually rev the engine and spray).

Perhaps Peter will chime in and give us a lesson.

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Actually, it is pretty easy to pull the exhaust manifolds off and then the plugs are a snap. It is only a few bolts and and you really don't have to pull the hoses since once loose the manifold will move enough to get the plug out.

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Those plugs should not be that hard to get out... two finger tight man!

You need to put some anti-seize grease on those plugs if you ever get them out! If done correctly you should be able to back them out with your fingers once you make the initial 1/4 CCW turn with the socket and a flexhead wrench.

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Some may get a bit squeemish at this, but I've done it before in a similar situation. If you are for sure changing the plug, give the porcelyn (sp?) a good whack with a screwdriver and knock it off. Then you can use a shallow socket on the metal part of the plug. A shallow socket still may not work for you not knowing the clearance situation. And you still have to deal with getting new plugs in.

As for the danger of fogging through the throttle body, I guess I'm just not understaning the TPS sensor rationale. It's reading position of the throttle blade shaft on the outside of the throttle body. I don't see how any oil at all could get into the sensor if you are spraying into the butterfly.

As for "doing it correctly"....the fear with this is that you can spray too much oil into the hole, put a plug in, turn the motor over, and it will hydrolock on the excessive oil volume on top of the piston and bend a rod. First, it would take a lot of oil sprayed in to do this (several ounces). Second, I have quite a bit of experience with this in another engine situation, and the starter doesn't put out enough torque to bend a rod. Hydrolock damage comes from dumping fluid on the top side of the piston while the engine is running (IE, the other 7 pistons are providing the torque, not the starter). You will smoke the starter and cables before you bend a rod.

Anyway, what I do is pull all 8 plugs out, give each cylinder a quick blast of fog oil, bump the engine over a few rotations using the key switch, give each cylinder another quick blast of fog oil, bump the motor over again, reinstall all 8 plugs. Even though I don't think it will ever happen anyway, by bumping it over with the plugs out if you did spray too much oil in it will just shoot out the plug hole. You want to do this after you are done running the motor for the season. Starting it up will just burn the oil off.

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Big block merc manifolds are just as bad, but I know the 383's suck also (especially when guys from the factory superman the darn things in) A swivel socket worked for me, but it took about 30 minutes and I had bloody and bruised hands to prove it. Other option is to shave down a socket you have now.

If your trying to fog it out just run some two stroke oil through the engine via a remote tank. Or just fog through the intake and forget about it.

-Chris

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