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New AMSOIL Marine Synthetic


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ANy thoughts or opinions on the new Amsoil Marine Synthetic? Im thinking of using it this fall and wondered if it and the FC-W cert is worth the extra cash. thanks!

mc

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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif

Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.
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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

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I paid out the NOSE for it...but honestly, next time...I am going to put in the NEW Rotella-T 100% synthetic (Blue Bottle) 10W40 Diesel/Marine grade oil found at any AutoZone or Walmart. Rotella-T is a GREAT oil, meets all the requirements and is highly regarded in the lubricant industry. I just went with Amsoil due to my desire for FULL synthetic Marine grade oil...which was hard to find at the time. NOW they have the Rotella-T Syn (Blue Bottle) for around $17 gallon.

I want to say I paid nearly $8/quart for the Amsoil plus $20 or so shipping. It was NOT cheap. Innocent.gif

....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

I have used AMS Oil products my entire life, in trucks, snowmobiles, quads, and now my Bu and have been very happy w/ eveerything but the price Mad.gif It is expensive stuff, but I have never had any problems w/ any of the engines that I have used it in. FYI I had nearly 7,000 miles (ALOT for a sled) on a 2003 Ski Doo MXZ snowmobile and never an engine problem and I have nearly 900 hrs on my Bu w/o a problem either. Thumbup.gif

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There's always been a raging debate between synthetic and regular oil. Just be sure your oil meets API CH-4 (or,even better, CH-4+) ratings and the recomended viscosity. Thats the API standard for "severe duty".

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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

I have used AMS Oil products my entire life, in trucks, snowmobiles, quads, and now my Bu and have been very happy w/ eveerything but the price Mad.gif It is expensive stuff, but I have never had any problems w/ any of the engines that I have used it in. FYI I had nearly 7,000 miles (ALOT for a sled) on a 2003 Ski Doo MXZ snowmobile and never an engine problem and I have nearly 900 hrs on my Bu w/o a problem either. Thumbup.gif

That's a ton of miles on a sled for nearly anyone, but it's a lifetimes' worth for an AZ resident!

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Todays conventional oils are top notch. If you are not looking to extend your oil change intervals to say, 100-150, even 200 hours, you are wasting your money. The only noticable advantage syn gives you these days are extended OCV"s.

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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

I have always used synth (Mobil1 20w50) after about 150 hrs on my '99 RLX but switched to the Amsoil 15w40 Marine/Diesel about 3 seasons ago When I was unable to find the Mobil locally anymore. It is very pricey compared to other motor oils but not too pricey compared to the cost of a boat in the long run. To complete the package use the EAO type filter from AMSOIL too. I've got over 800 hrs on my 'BU and don't intend to replace it for a LONG time.

Deke

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I just switched to that Amsoil Marine when I winterized last week. Last year I ran the Amsoil Diesel oil (with the marine tag on the end) and had no problems but liked the fact that this new oil is supposed to be designed specifically for marine applications (ie. high loads ALL the time, corrosion additives, etc) and the Diesel/Marine oil, the marine part seemed to be an afterthought??? I phoned Indmar before I made the switch and they said they didn't care what you run as long as it meets the API rating, which I believe is SJ?

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....which is what I am running. VERY expensive tho. Whistling.gif
Amsoil makes a Marine 15w-40 that meets Indmar's requirements.

Would you recomend it? What did you end up paying for it?

Thanks!

mc

I have used AMS Oil products my entire life, in trucks, snowmobiles, quads, and now my Bu and have been very happy w/ eveerything but the price Mad.gif It is expensive stuff, but I have never had any problems w/ any of the engines that I have used it in. FYI I had nearly 7,000 miles (ALOT for a sled) on a 2003 Ski Doo MXZ snowmobile and never an engine problem and I have nearly 900 hrs on my Bu w/o a problem either. Thumbup.gif

That's a ton of miles on a sled for nearly anyone, but it's a lifetimes' worth for an AZ resident!

Was from WI before moving to AZ in 2005. Used to ride them every night and every weekend.

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You have a point. But it is a fact that conventional oils no matter how refined do still have impurities (also reffered to as 'sharp' molucules) that score metals making them more prone to rust and wear over time. Syn is completley void of imprurities.

This according to MODERN MARVELS on the History channel! LOL..

Todays conventional oils are top notch. If you are not looking to extend your oil change intervals to say, 100-150, even 200 hours, you are wasting your money. The only noticable advantage syn gives you these days are extended OCV"s.
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There's always been a raging debate between synthetic and regular oil. Just be sure your oil meets API CH-4 (or,even better, CH-4+) ratings and the recomended viscosity. Thats the API standard for "severe duty".

They are up to CJ-4+ now.

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You have a point. But it is a fact that conventional oils no matter how refined do still have impurities (also reffered to as 'sharp' molucules) that score metals making them more prone to rust and wear over time. Syn is completley void of imprurities.

This according to MODERN MARVELS on the History channel! LOL..

Todays conventional oils are top notch. If you are not looking to extend your oil change intervals to say, 100-150, even 200 hours, you are wasting your money. The only noticable advantage syn gives you these days are extended OCV"s.

Almost all syn. oils are no longer truely syn. They are made from rerefined crude just like conventional oils. They are just taking the process one step further. Mobil 1, some Amsoils, and German synthetics are the only true syns out there any more. There was a battle over calling these oils synthetic led by Mobil and they lost.

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Wavemakn - my book specs stright 40 wt oil in the Hammerhead, have you had any oil use issues? we only have 35 hrs on the boat and the dealer did the 20 hr service with that shell stuff. I want to get it out of there but cannot find a syn 40 wt.

I use the 5-40 in my duramax and love it but I dont want to make a mistake in the new boat.

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Different engines...so follow what the manual says. Mine is just a 5.7L Indmar with different cams and exhaust = 380hp HH as opposed to what I think is now a 6.0L 400HP-HH. I know on that Indmar (on the 400HP HH) has now started recommending straight 50w oil, for low oil pressure issues.

To answer your question directly, NO problems at all for me with oil usage....BUT it is a different beast than your 07-HH.

Hope this helps,

Wavemakn - my book specs stright 40 wt oil in the Hammerhead, have you had any oil use issues? we only have 35 hrs on the boat and the dealer did the 20 hr service with that shell stuff. I want to get it out of there but cannot find a syn 40 wt.

I use the 5-40 in my duramax and love it but I dont want to make a mistake in the new boat.

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EDIT: I did not explain that well. Let me try again.

Marine engine oil picks up all sorts of crud (especially moisture) from the engine a lot faster than a regular engine. Synthetic oil protects against oil break-down which provides for better and longer lubrication. In a normal engine it is the break-down of the oil molecules that reduces its lubricity. Synthetic oil does not reduce the amount of contaminants collected in the oil. The problem with marine engines is not the deterioration of the oil, but all the extra junk collected in the oil. Hence running synthetic oil longer than the recommended change interval in a marine engine is still running all the contaminants through it, which is bad.

I was considering running synthetic until someone explained it like that to me (or at least that’s how I understood it). After they brought that up, the added expense of synthetic did not seem worth it to me.

Edited by chadwick02
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Good Point! Never heard it explained like that either. Personally, I don't intend to run my oil past 40-50hr or so, and just thought maybe synthetics do a better job lubricating than conventional oil. And since Rotella-T just came out with 10W40 Marine/Diesel Synthetic, and it is relatively cheap enough ($17/gallon)...problem go to that next time.

I was considering running synthetic until someone explained it like that to me (or at least that’s how I understood it). After they brought that up, the added expense of synthetic did not seem worth it to me.
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I run the Amsoil Marine 10w40 in my RLXI and won't run anything else. It just makes me laugh when I read some of the responses on this thread. It is absolutely ridiculous how some of you guys make yourself feel better when you make up crap or believe something your friends uncle told you.

Absolutely BS that most Synthetic oils have refined crude in them. That is ridiculous! Where did you read that one? The Inquirer?

Conventional oils and Synthetic blends will have impurities, period!

I agree that Synthetics cost more and if you change your oil quite often, might not gain you much. I want reduced friction and longer hours between changes with increased protection. I run this oil for that reason.

So let me get this straight. So all the cars and trucks that are factory filled with Synthetics are just filling it for fun? Surely when the Vette's, Vipers, all the SRT line from Mopar, and all the luxury cars makers like Mercedes can't be wrong. Surely they had a reason to put those oils in their engines. Oh that's right... because it is better and protects those 20k engines from meltdown when the owner hammers the holy hell out of it. Our marine engines take a beating just like a hot street car might. Good enough for a $140,000 911 Turbo.. good enough for me.

Stop drinking the damn Kool-Aid already. If you want to be cheap and use Dino oil, go ahead, no is stopping you. I work damn hard for my money and I want it to be the spent in the best possible manner. I didn't pay this much money for a boat to have half a** maintenance.

Don't give me that crap about Amsoil's Marine 10w40 being for a 4 stroke. What the hell do you think these engines are? Oh you meant Outboard? Explain to me the difference? That's right.. nothing!

Factory fill oil is Pennzoil 25w40. Pennzoil is junk in most tests, but if Indmar thinks that is good enough than pretty much anything is. Dropping to a 10W40 changes almost nothing but Winter weight viscosity. So you get less parasitic loss and drag. Perhaps even better oil flow and better parts protection. What a concept.

<end rant>

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Shocking.gif

Good thing Tommy Boy® isn't here. Paraphrased: "Synthetic is a WOM at these change intervals." Then after he inflamed the argument with several more posts and links, "buy Valvoline. :) "

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