Heater "Leaking" -- 04 VLX

[Olive]

Ah... the process of buying an used boat.... grrrrr.

Last couple of times out (30 min) I noticed the carpet was wet at the drivers feet... (I thought it was water spilled from the dog's bowl). Yesterday, we were out for 3 hours and there was "more" water and it was warm -- yikes.

Got the flashlight and confirmed by fear -- there was water dripping down from the "grey" heater box -- onto the floor and the water was then running under the foot stops -- and appearing as "surface water" beneath the driver.

I confirmed the hose connectins (in/out) were solid -- is this a potential heater core issue? Anyone take one appart -- loose connection -- or do you have to replace the entire unit?

I'm pulling the boat today, as I wasn't able to get the shaft nut adjusted, and so I'll have to add this item to my growing list of challenges.

The heater is on an 04 VLX -- located above the drivers feet. As always I appreciate the guidance and wisdom of the group. Let me know.

Regards, Olive

[jgouveia3]

common problem. either call heatercraft for the replacement core, or run down to your local NAPA store, they will most likely have it in stock.

[Big Mac]

Ah... the process of buying an used boat.... grrrrr.

Last couple of times out (30 min) I noticed the carpet was wet at the drivers feet... (I thought it was water spilled from the dog's bowl). Yesterday, we were out for 3 hours and there was "more" water and it was warm -- yikes.

Got the flashlight and confirmed by fear -- there was water dripping down from the "grey" heater box -- onto the floor and the water was then running under the foot stops -- and appearing as "surface water" beneath the driver.

I confirmed the hose connectins (in/out) were solid -- is this a potential heater core issue? Anyone take one appart -- loose connection -- or do you have to replace the entire unit?

I'm pulling the boat today, as I wasn't able to get the shaft nut adjusted, and so I'll have to add this item to my growing list of challenges.

The heater is on an 04 VLX -- located above the drivers feet. As always I appreciate the guidance and wisdom of the group. Let me know.

Regards, Olive

Been there, done that. The heater cores that HeaterCraft was using on its heaters back in model-year '04 were not good. They did have a higher-than-expected failure rate and as soon as you mentioned "wet carpet at driver's feet" I knew exactly what your problem is.

HeaterCraft web site...

Yours is likely the 2-H model (two hoses). The warranty on those is 2 years IIRC, but if you call them and tell them "heater core failure on a 2004" they may very well replace the thing for free. They send you a whole new grey heater box. All you have to do is connect the blower motor from the old one, and slap it back in. The new cores are much better-made, but be aware than the new grey boxes are slightly (about an inch) longer than the older ones.

If HeaterCraft won't send a new one for free, don't order it from them...instead buy it from SkiDim where it's much cheaper (about $80 instead of $120 IIRC). Install is kind of a PITA, but pretty straightforward.

Some people may advise you that you can buy a new core (actual "core" - radiator fins and tubing - no grey box) from an auto parts store. Likely true and you might be able to get it dirt cheap from an auto salvage yard. For me, it was just easier to get the whole drop-in grey box, core and everything. I was far less concerned about the cost than the convenience. YMMV.

[Addictedto6]

Ah... the process of buying an used boat.... grrrrr.

Last couple of times out (30 min) I noticed the carpet was wet at the drivers feet... (I thought it was water spilled from the dog's bowl). Yesterday, we were out for 3 hours and there was "more" water and it was warm -- yikes.

Got the flashlight and confirmed by fear -- there was water dripping down from the "grey" heater box -- onto the floor and the water was then running under the foot stops -- and appearing as "surface water" beneath the driver.

I confirmed the hose connectins (in/out) were solid -- is this a potential heater core issue? Anyone take one appart -- loose connection -- or do you have to replace the entire unit?

I'm pulling the boat today, as I wasn't able to get the shaft nut adjusted, and so I'll have to add this item to my growing list of challenges.

The heater is on an 04 VLX -- located above the drivers feet. As always I appreciate the guidance and wisdom of the group. Let me know.

Regards, Olive

Been there, done that. The heater cores that HeaterCraft was using on its heaters back in model-year '04 were not good. They did have a higher-than-expected failure rate and as soon as you mentioned "wet carpet at driver's feet" I knew exactly what your problem is.

HeaterCraft web site...

Yours is likely the 2-H model (two hoses). The warranty on those is 2 years IIRC, but if you call them and tell them "heater core failure on a 2004" they may very well replace the thing for free. They send you a whole new grey heater box. All you have to do is connect the blower motor from the old one, and slap it back in. The new cores are much better-made, but be aware than the new grey boxes are slightly (about an inch) longer than the older ones.

If HeaterCraft won't send a new one for free, don't order it from them...instead buy it from SkiDim where it's much cheaper (about $80 instead of $120 IIRC). Install is kind of a PITA, but pretty straightforward.

Some people may advise you that you can buy a new core (actual "core" - radiator fins and tubing - no grey box) from an auto parts store. Likely true and you might be able to get it dirt cheap from an auto salvage yard. For me, it was just easier to get the whole drop-in grey box, core and everything. I was far less concerned about the cost than the convenience. YMMV.

If they won't replace your core under warranty, there is no need to buy that grey box for an extra $50-$90 from ski dim or heatercraft. It's REALLY easy to take the core out and replace it in the grey box and you don't need to take the motor off the old box and move it to the new one. It's actually a lot easier than the cumbersome process to remount the entire unit against the wall while working under the dash -- which you have to do no matter what. Do a search for heater core and there are a number of threads with the part number for the Napa core. You can also just bring your core to the Autoparts store and they can match it up for you.

The ONLY reason to buy a new Heatercraft brand core is if you believe that they are using better core materials that will stand up longer in marine conditions. Supposedly they changed the materials a few years ago. I have yet to see any reports though that indicate the cores are actually lasting longer, so I still went with Napa last time. You can always call heatercraft to get their explanation on materials.

[Big Mac]

If they won't replace your core under warranty, there is no need to buy that grey box for an extra $50-$90 from ski dim or heatercraft. It's REALLY easy to take the core out and replace it in the grey box and you don't need to take the motor off the old box and move it to the new one. It's actually a lot easier than the cumbersome process to remount the entire unit against the wall while working under the dash -- which you have to do no matter what. Do a search for heater core and there are a number of threads with the part number for the Napa core. You can also just bring your core to the Autoparts store and they can match it up for you.

The ONLY reason to buy a new Heatercraft brand core is if you believe that they are using better core materials that will stand up longer in marine conditions. Supposedly they changed the materials a few years ago. I have yet to see any reports though that indicate the cores are actually lasting longer, so I still went with Napa last time. You can always call heatercraft to get their explanation on materials.

I did pull the core out of the grey box to test mine and it was indeed pretty simple. I was dismayed at the incredibly poor quality of the soldering and sure enough, after filling the core in the kitchen sink, it was leaking from a crappy solder joint. No doubt I could have had the thing re-soldered at a radiator shop, or bought a new automotive core (what was it---1998-2004 Ford Focus, or something?) but it was just easier to call HeaterCraft and have them send a whole new unit than fitting that kind of shopping into my day. The new unit that HeaterCraft sent me was completely different than the original one in my boat and appeared to be very well-made. Personally, I'd have done it that way for the convenience even if it meant paying SkiDim $80, but no doubt that a dedicated bargain hunter could do it cheaper.

[Addictedto6]

If they won't replace your core under warranty, there is no need to buy that grey box for an extra $50-$90 from ski dim or heatercraft. It's REALLY easy to take the core out and replace it in the grey box and you don't need to take the motor off the old box and move it to the new one. It's actually a lot easier than the cumbersome process to remount the entire unit against the wall while working under the dash -- which you have to do no matter what. Do a search for heater core and there are a number of threads with the part number for the Napa core. You can also just bring your core to the Autoparts store and they can match it up for you.

The ONLY reason to buy a new Heatercraft brand core is if you believe that they are using better core materials that will stand up longer in marine conditions. Supposedly they changed the materials a few years ago. I have yet to see any reports though that indicate the cores are actually lasting longer, so I still went with Napa last time. You can always call heatercraft to get their explanation on materials.

I did pull the core out of the grey box to test mine and it was indeed pretty simple. I was dismayed at the incredibly poor quality of the soldering and sure enough, after filling the core in the kitchen sink, it was leaking from a crappy solder joint. No doubt I could have had the thing re-soldered at a radiator shop, or bought a new automotive core (what was it---1998-2004 Ford Focus, or something?) but it was just easier to call HeaterCraft and have them send a whole new unit than fitting that kind of shopping into my day. The new unit that HeaterCraft sent me was completely different than the original one in my boat and appeared to be very well-made. Personally, I'd have done it that way for the convenience even if it meant paying SkiDim $80, but no doubt that a dedicated bargain hunter could do it cheaper.

If you already have the core out of the box, there's not much convenience savings you've done 50% of the work.

Hopefully the heatercraft core improvements are real and will stand up over time. The material improvements would get me to buy heatercraft again IF the cores are going to last 5 years and not 2 in the heavy mineral conditions that I ski in.

My first replacement core was from Heatercraft (out of warranty, but a special deal from HC) and it lasted less time than the original core.

Next I went the radiator repair shop route (for my 2nd failed heatercraft direct core) and it was a waste of money. Cost almost as much as new one from Napa and failed again in 1 year.

When I bought my most recent core from Napa it was just when Heatercraft was coming out with the new core (interestingly enough, for the same price as the old cores that were stock auto cores). At ~$30 bucks and local, it seemed a lot easier to just go get it.

Edited June 24, 2007 by Addictedto6

[bigD]

I did mine last summer,they replaced it under warranty.

It was slightly different than the original one and hopefully a better quality.

[catalac]

My 03 core crapped out too, new core from local radiator repair shop was 40 bucks. They guy said the core was from late 70's ford ltd's and lincoln's.

Fix it now or get an elbow in the boat just incase, if the solder lets go the fitting into the core will fall out you will have water pumping in the boat from the motor.

[Addictedto6]

My 03 core crapped out too, new core from local radiator repair shop was 40 bucks. They guy said the core was from late 70's ford ltd's and lincoln's.

Fix it now or get an elbow in the boat just incase, if the solder lets go the fitting into the core will fall out you will have water pumping in the boat from the motor.

there's a couple of good mods in earlier threads about using shut off valves or quick disconnect hoses to the heater for when the core will finally let go. I definitely recommend one of them.

I also posted the followup question on another thread today re: the difference between skidim and heatercraft product listing...I don't know the answer. But if someone buys from skidim, they should make sure they are getting the "new" HC core.

One followup question - is Skidim selling the new upgraded heatercraft cores, or the original design? I looked at the heatercraft web site and the skidim web site and the items look different (heatercraft core only(?) $92; skidim box + core $83). Maybe it's just a different picture. But the Skidim website has H200 as the product, and heatercraft has H202 as the product.

[Big Mac]

there's a couple of good mods in earlier threads about using shut off valves or quick disconnect hoses to the heater for when the core will finally let go. I definitely recommend one of them.

I also posted the followup question on another thread today re: the difference between skidim and heatercraft product listing...I don't know the answer. But if someone buys from skidim, they should make sure they are getting the "new" HC core.

One followup question - is Skidim selling the new upgraded heatercraft cores, or the original design? I looked at the heatercraft web site and the skidim web site and the items look different (heatercraft core only(?) $92; skidim box + core $83). Maybe it's just a different picture. But the Skidim website has H200 as the product, and heatercraft has H202 as the product.

As in the other thread, Heatercraft replaced mine on my 2004 at the beginning of this season on warranty, admitting there had been problems. They sent me the core+grey box as a replacement and I had to ship the old core+grey box back to them. I'd definitely call HeaterCraft first on the issue. The new core+grey box they sent me was different (different size too) than the original one.

[trevorb]

Does any one know if this "new" style heater core applies to the 300 series (3 outlet heaters) heaters? I have to replace mine this week too.

[SunriseH2OSkier]

Does any one know if this "new" style heater core applies to the 300 series (3 outlet heaters) heaters? I have to replace mine this week too.

Yes it does. Had mine go last year, and just like Big Mac's experience, Heatercraft replaced it under warranty. They just asked me to send back my old one after the new one arrived.

Just an aside - Heatercraft is a great company. My boat is an '03, and by all rights I was probably out of warranty. I called them up and admitted as much. They didn't even hesitate - told me they would replace it for me. I've bought a couple heaters from them aftermarket, and have always had good experience with them.

[J_Gled]

I guess the cold winter in California got to my heater core. My 12 year old mechanic - aka son who has an incredible aptitude for all things in motion - noticed the leak while we were on the lake Tuesday evening.

I tore into it this morning. I tried the NAPA route today to no avail. The to/fro stems on the core don't line up with the notches in the gray box. They are off by about a half an inch. Rather than muff up the gray box, I ordered the replacement from HeaterCraft.

The guys at NAPA showed the image in a weathered(old - dead tree edition) catalog which was an exact match to my existing core(p/n 660-3100).. The image in their database is an exact match to what they had in stock. It appears something has changed along the line in the production of the cores for NAPA.

Fortunately there is no need for heat in 100 degree weather!

[WaveMake'nLSV]

Add my 2004 LSV to the list of failures. Found it yesterday after a spontaneous trip to the lake...buzzing down the lake and noticed the WARM FOOT WATER syndrome and was pissed. Hoping to find a loose hose, to no avail...it is leaking off both sides of the core. I am going to bypass it and/or just cut the heater hoses and put inline shut off valves. Will likely just disconnect from the core (put a large towel under it prior to this procedure) and let it drain and then cram some 3/4" pvc style plugs into both the feed and drain hoses and wait until I resolve the issue with Heatercaft.

Sucks tho...for now, I wrapped both hoses together tightly with electrical tape and put a vice-grip onto it. Seems to have worked well enough, but want a more civilized stop-gap fix, so am going to put in the plugs this weekend.

Just an aside - Heatercraft is a great company. My boat is an '03, and by all rights I was probably out of warranty. I called them up and admitted as much. They didn't even hesitate - told me they would replace it for me. I've bought a couple heaters from them aftermarket, and have always had good experience with them.

[Olive]

Add my 2004 LSV to the list of failures. Found it yesterday after a spontaneous trip to the lake...buzzing down the lake and noticed the WARM FOOT WATER syndrome and was pissed. Hoping to find a loose hose, to no avail...it is leaking off both sides of the core. I am going to bypass it and/or just cut the heater hoses and put inline shut off valves. Will likely just disconnect from the core (put a large towel under it prior to this procedure) and let it drain and then cram some 3/4" pvc style plugs into both the feed and drain hoses and wait until I resolve the issue with Heatercaft.

Sucks tho...for now, I wrapped both hoses together tightly with electrical tape and put a vice-grip onto it. Seems to have worked well enough, but want a more civilized stop-gap fix, so am going to put in the plugs this weekend.

Just an aside - Heatercraft is a great company. My boat is an '03, and by all rights I was probably out of warranty. I called them up and admitted as much. They didn't even hesitate - told me they would replace it for me. I've bought a couple heaters from them aftermarket, and have always had good experience with them.

Scott -- I did contact HeaterCraft with my issue and they issued a return authorization number, and the local Malibu dealer (Skier's Pier was outstanding in ther approach). My 04 was replaced under warranty - 215 hrs -- apprears to be a common fault -- but in my experience, all the parties were aligned and things worked out well. Do yourself a favor and contact HeaterCraft directly.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

Thanks! I intend to do that myself, on Monday. Sounds like they should fix it for me for free.

I will quote several accounts on THIS website about their great customer service and admission that the EARLY cores had issues, etc...I can push if it comes to that, but seem to get farther being nice up front.

Scott -- I did contact HeaterCraft with my issue and they issued a return authorization number, and the local Malibu dealer (Skier's Pier was outstanding in ther approach). My 04 was replaced under warranty - 215 hrs -- apprears to be a common fault -- but in my experience, all the parties were aligned and things worked out well. Do yourself a favor and contact HeaterCraft directly.

[Big Mac]

Thanks! I intend to do that myself, on Monday. Sounds like they should fix it for me for free.

I will quote several accounts on THIS website about their great customer service and admission that the EARLY cores had issues, etc...I can push if it comes to that, but seem to get farther being nice up front.

I don't think you'll have to push. They were very nice and very accomodating.

[Deke]

I've replaced several cores on my '99 RLx. Heatercraft has always been great about it. As mentioned above, they have apparently improved the system and now replace the entire box instead of just the core due to a different internal design. I think I did that 2 years ago and have not had any failures yet. I think the issue was electrolysis (?) and different lakes are worse than others. I'm not positive, but I think it might help to install a valve to stop the water flow when not using the heater. That might slow the corrosion down a bit. I never did it cause I use the heater all summer.

Deke

[Air Tahoe]

I have this same problem too on my 2004 Wakesetter VLX.

I e-mailed the company and I will let you guys know how things turn out.

The boat has been flawless other than this leaking heater!!!!

[WaveMake'nLSV]

Talked to Heatercraft this morning and they are not willing to replace under warranty, saying the online (specifically Malibu Crew) websites were mistaken in stating it was a design flaw, etc. They had a supply and demand issue in 2004 and changed over to another vendor who designed the core/shell a bit differently and would not say it was "better" yet was "different"... But Scott, at HC was very informative, very professional and very courteous....so not knocking the company, rather it is going to cost me $125 for a new core/shell this fall when I decide to fix it. For now, am going with the barb-2-barb 5/8" bypass route. This fall I will pony up and get it from them, not going to break the bank...was actually expecting it to be more $$$ than that.

L8er,

I have this same problem too on my 2004 Wakesetter VLX.

I e-mailed the company and I will let you guys know how things turn out.

The boat has been flawless other than this leaking heater!!!!

[CarveItUp]

I just replaced my two outlet core from SkiDim for $83 plus shipping (used the "MALIBU" discount code for 10% off). The assembly drop-ships from Heatercraft and is the new enclosure and core (H-202). One thing I noticed is that the core rattles a bit. I'm going to open it up and add some foam insulation to prevent that. Otherwise the workmanship of the new core looks far superior to that of the old one.

Hope this helps,

Mike

Talked to Heatercraft this morning and they are not willing to replace under warranty, saying the online (specifically Malibu Crew) websites were mistaken in stating it was a design flaw, etc. They had a supply and demand issue in 2004 and changed over to another vendor who designed the core/shell a bit differently and would not say it was "better" yet was "different"... But Scott, at HC was very informative, very professional and very courteous....so not knocking the company, rather it is going to cost me $125 for a new core/shell this fall when I decide to fix it. For now, am going with the barb-2-barb 5/8" bypass route. This fall I will pony up and get it from them, not going to break the bank...was actually expecting it to be more $$$ than that.

L8er,

I have this same problem too on my 2004 Wakesetter VLX.

I e-mailed the company and I will let you guys know how things turn out.

The boat has been flawless other than this leaking heater!!!!

[WaveMake'nLSV]

So SkiDim sells the same thing, supplied from Heatercraft? Scott, at heatercraft, did mention that they had redesigned it a bit to NOT rattle....hmmmmm, wonder what the deal is? And mine is a 3 outlet, but surely that won't make that much of a difference in cost.

Edit: Just checked ski dim...and it is $92.70 plus shipping for the 3 outlet.

I just replaced my two outlet core from SkiDim for $83 plus shipping (used the "MALIBU" discount code for 10% off). The assembly drop-ships from Heatercraft and is the new enclosure and core (H-202). One thing I noticed is that the core rattles a bit. I'm going to open it up and add some foam insulation to prevent that. Otherwise the workmanship of the new core looks far superior to that of the old one.

Hope this helps,

Mike

Edited July 9, 2007 by WaveMake'nLSV

[CarveItUp]

I called HeaterCraft and SkiDim before ordering. The SkiDim website still says it's the H-200 (or H-300 in your case) but the people I talked to said that it would be the current model and would include the new gray box. Right they were!

You'll need the new box if your current heater is the H-300. The new core is a little bigger so the enclosure dimensions changed. Same mounting system though...