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Agree, it looks like steel, and likely the reason you had a difficult time getting the prop off. You have good advice on removing the key from the shaft now that the prop is off. Any marks you make on the shaft will need to be Emory clothed off too.

a couple of the manuals available here - https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/malibu_specs.html/2002-sunscape-21-lsv-r108/

Is the cap flat on the business side? Please show a photo of both sides. It would seem that you could fabricate one from a piece of aluminum bar.

Now use your punch again, or a cold chisel, to strike the end of the key with an outward angled blow to lift it from the slot. Once it comes up at all use a small punch or cold chisel and tap it between the key and shaft at the bottom of the slot. You may need to grind a point on the punch. Even a 12d nail should work after you get the key lifted at all.

Finding same results on a few Supra boats after winterizing by pulling plugs and draining. Not widely known but they are now saying to bump engine over after pulling plugs to move any pockets of water that didn't drain. Supra with the Raptor will sometimes crack a fitting at the bottom of heat exchanger if not bumped over.

Is that steel key stock? Needs to be brass.

Nice. The 525 will really wake up that boat. I run it on my SSLXi

Wow. Good job ! I'm wondering if heat will still seperate those two metals. As far as a 4 blade, if I recall some folks tried that to make the prop wash more like a Response? Fine tuning the boat for slalom course use.

Success! Mostly. Prop is off - did some pb blaster and repositioned the puller and pounded on the key with a hammer and punch from stern to bow direction like you all suggested. Didn't end up needing the heat. The key is now stuck to the shaft.....banged on it from a few directions but it looks pretty rusty. I soaked it in wd40 and will try again tomorrow. @Bozboat the 4 blade was a acme 579, not sure why it was on there, but I'm excited to try my new acme 525!

Would suggest some PB blaster, the put the nut back on and give it a few turns. The more blaster and hit it with a mallet a few times and let unit sit 30 mins before trying again. If that does not work make sure the nut is on at least 3 turns and drive it around a but. That might loosen it up.

No water from anywhere else. I pulled the cap and used JB Weld for a temporary fix for now. Can you get a new end cap?

I was 0-3 getting a kid to be a Bobcat...but 3-3 for having Miami Redhawks. :-) Last one graduates next week!

Just a quick update on this. It’s the end cap that is broken and is about $120 to replace. However, there is an 8 week backlog. Malibu said to use JB weld on the cracks and it should be good to go. I’m letting it cure overnight and I’ll see how it does tomorrow. They said it’s only about 35psi of water going through the intercooler.

A four blade prop on a SSLXI?

I've had this issues as well on my 18' 23 lsv w/ stock wetsounds amps... another trick that seems to work is to mute speakers when starting.

It looks like you have about 1/4" or so to play with in the groove. Did you try a BFH and a punch to try to drift the key forward a bit to unlock it from the prop and shaft?

Mapgas should expand the prop and theoretically could release the bind between the prop and the key/pin.

Trying to remove a slightly damaged prop and I think the key is broken/locked. I've gotten the prop most of the way off, but the last couple of inches are really tight. I'm using a puller and hammer and probably grinding the key over the shaft threads if I had to guess. I've tried sticking a small screwdriver in the key hole and hammering it either direction, no dice. With the puller I'm past the point it can pull, so added a spacer but it's slow going. Going to try mapgas next, but I'm not sure it'll help since it's not "stuck", it's a busted key. Any other advice? I'm trying to avoid drilling the key or cutting the shaft threads.....

I picked my boat up last night from the GR location as it was also getting warranty gel coat repair. It was done quickly and I was happy with the timing. They also summarized the boat while it was there and everything seemed business as usual.

OP, you’ve probably figured this out by now, but I just learned in the past few days that the engines (at least my Raptor 410) are under warranty for 5 years or 600 hours. The boat is 5 years or 500 hours. So, hours do play into your calculus.

Check the transom stereo remote and see if the "MODE" button is stuck in the pushed-in position. Older boat with Maliview (2013 22MXZ) but I had a flickering/acting up screen battle on many outings, to the point that I took the dash apart and checked connections on the back of the screen, it would go away and come back at random times, sometimes I'd do a battery reset and it would go away. Last time it happened nothing was working to fix it, I had the Maliview screen pulled out of the dash, stereo amp panel moved because it appears to be an electrical issue......I was just about to pull the boat and bring it to the dealer when my friend noticed the "MODE" button on the transom remote was stucked.....everything came back to normal once the button was reset. Turns out that people would often touch that button and at times it got stuck.

Miami of Ohio represented, plus spent a lot of time (and Halloweens) at OU on Court st. IYKYK

So, as seen in my recent polemic, this boat https://www.coralgablesyachts.com/boats-for-sale/2002-malibu-sunscape-21-lsv-holland-michigan-8967585/ will head to GA on Monday, after getting the fiberglass back to its original pop, and minor other-stuff. Also seen in that post which was stuck at the bottom of what is a 20+ response to what I started as I was headed to survey/sea trial her, was all her warts and glory after that survey and sea trial. Among the "Easter Eggs" were the Perfect Pass and Skylon not mentioned in the advertising. I'm taking the trailer to someone who'll fix the fenders (good luck in matching the purple paint which goes with the boat fiberglass accent color!)... I've also reached out to Walter (V-Drive) who, as yet, have not responded, asking for an owner's manual. Which brings me to the first askit: Does anyone have a PDF version of, or know how to obtain, a real '02-generation Walter (presumed from the case top) 26 06D C tranny user manual? And ditto, an engine manual? Given that there have to be many looking on who've got the same engine, what's the recommended fuel? I'm thinking of adding a Racor or similar filter, though I suspect that the level of use and source will make it such that grunge and water aren't the same hazard as I had in my sailboat I lived on for 15 years, in the wilds of the Bahamas and US East coast (advice??). Likewise, a Skylon manual? So far as I've been able to discern, the Skylon has no strain relief modus (I'd been - but may be mistaken - of the belief that it used two pole-to-gunwale-attachment tension-relief rods/pipes to take the stress of line-attached wake activities). Should there be some that I may have overlooked by not excavating the port stern locker? Or is the norm to just use a cable-over-the-bow (which would seem to be overlooking the side forces in boarding)? (The black pole is the port side guide pole, and the black to the left is the walk-through insert for cold weather comfort...) On further and close inspection, it's possible that the white line on either side of the guide pole is actually vinyl-clad cable, and attaches somewhere forward (?)... I saw what I suspect might be the Perfect Pass cheat sheet (and the radio faceplate) in the chart compartment over the cubby: However, if that's all it is (not a manual) I need one of those as well, as I didn't see ANY form of manuals in that cubby. Likewise, I saw nothing looking like an owner's manual for either (apparently Malibu supplied, as the paint on the trailer matches the boat trim) the trailer or the boat itself. The Eagle trailer was made nearby in Wyandotte MI but was bought out shortly after; I've written to the successor in hopes of getting a manual or PDF of same. As to the boat, it might be like my tow vehicle, for which I was to find (on eBay) a NEW-in-shrinkwrap OEM owner's manual and army-look sleeve containing all original documentation - but I haven't a clue where to look for a Sunscape manual. And, a REAL longshot, the cover which bolts to the V-Drive top, covering that area all the way up to the distributor cap: vs: The hatch risers, as might be expected, have, for the most part, reached the end of their useful lives. Thus, the engine cover won't stay up without a prop, the starboard cubby got sat on or otherwise damaged and ripped out or removed from the face of the lid (still in the cubby, bent rod hanging down), but the curiously oriented chart bin riser and the under port-front-dashboard riser both appear to be OK. I'm guessing these are a standard marine or automotive part and not difficult to source, but I have no clue, of course. Suggestions for sources appreciated. As before and so far, thanks to all who have contributed to the hive mind solution to my ignorance. I hope one day to be that person to other newbies, as I am for the boat I left (Morgan 461 sailboat I lived aboard and cruised for 15 years), but at the moment my learning curve is more like a cliff base climb for the 02 Sunscape LSV! L8R Skip

Me too. They called me this morning to advise me that my boat is in Grand Rapids getting gel coat repairs under warranty. I was supposed to get it tomorrow, and now it's next week. Not thrilled with this to say the least. To @ahopkins22LSV and @MikeR397, I'm happy to hear you're pleased with how they're handling things for you. I can't say the same. My boat has been there since the last week of February and this is the 3rd time it's been held up. Also, we do have Gull Lake and the Coldwater dealers in the state. I've spoken with Full Lake and they've said they would service my boat if needed.