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Has been some talk about this. Are you on a lake or river? I think the issue was on river. Don't know answer but you should be able to search and find it.

Is anyone having issues with their cruise control. I have 2024 T220 m5 motor and the cruise is all messed up. If I set my cruise setpoint at 22mph I'm actually going 23.5-24 according to GPS, to obtain 22mph I have to set cruise at 20.6mph. I know you can adjust actual speed on paddle wheel but that's not the issue, it's the setpoint speed, almost like calibration is wrong in setting to control throttle. Does anyone have any ideas, the dealer is checking g with malibu but so far nothing..

Did you actually make those or buy them?

I had warranty work done yesterday. Glad I pushed the issue because the lake call manager was trying to push me to next week. They were here (Eagle Mountain Lake) around 9:45 a.m. to replace a port side ballast pump, rear bilge, and clear fault codes. He never said a word about anything.

Agree, it looks like steel, and likely the reason you had a difficult time getting the prop off. You have good advice on removing the key from the shaft now that the prop is off. Any marks you make on the shaft will need to be Emory clothed off too.

a couple of the manuals available here - https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/malibu_specs.html/2002-sunscape-21-lsv-r108/

Is the cap flat on the business side? Please show a photo of both sides. It would seem that you could fabricate one from a piece of aluminum bar.

Now use your punch again, or a cold chisel, to strike the end of the key with an outward angled blow to lift it from the slot. Once it comes up at all use a small punch or cold chisel and tap it between the key and shaft at the bottom of the slot. You may need to grind a point on the punch. Even a 12d nail should work after you get the key lifted at all.

Finding same results on a few Supra boats after winterizing by pulling plugs and draining. Not widely known but they are now saying to bump engine over after pulling plugs to move any pockets of water that didn't drain. Supra with the Raptor will sometimes crack a fitting at the bottom of heat exchanger if not bumped over.

Is that steel key stock? Needs to be brass.

Nice. The 525 will really wake up that boat. I run it on my SSLXi

Wow. Good job ! I'm wondering if heat will still seperate those two metals. As far as a 4 blade, if I recall some folks tried that to make the prop wash more like a Response? Fine tuning the boat for slalom course use.

Success! Mostly. Prop is off - did some pb blaster and repositioned the puller and pounded on the key with a hammer and punch from stern to bow direction like you all suggested. Didn't end up needing the heat. The key is now stuck to the shaft.....banged on it from a few directions but it looks pretty rusty. I soaked it in wd40 and will try again tomorrow. @Bozboat the 4 blade was a acme 579, not sure why it was on there, but I'm excited to try my new acme 525!

Would suggest some PB blaster, the put the nut back on and give it a few turns. The more blaster and hit it with a mallet a few times and let unit sit 30 mins before trying again. If that does not work make sure the nut is on at least 3 turns and drive it around a but. That might loosen it up.

No water from anywhere else. I pulled the cap and used JB Weld for a temporary fix for now. Can you get a new end cap?

I was 0-3 getting a kid to be a Bobcat...but 3-3 for having Miami Redhawks. :-) Last one graduates next week!

Just a quick update on this. It’s the end cap that is broken and is about $120 to replace. However, there is an 8 week backlog. Malibu said to use JB weld on the cracks and it should be good to go. I’m letting it cure overnight and I’ll see how it does tomorrow. They said it’s only about 35psi of water going through the intercooler.

A four blade prop on a SSLXI?

I've had this issues as well on my 18' 23 lsv w/ stock wetsounds amps... another trick that seems to work is to mute speakers when starting.

It looks like you have about 1/4" or so to play with in the groove. Did you try a BFH and a punch to try to drift the key forward a bit to unlock it from the prop and shaft?

Mapgas should expand the prop and theoretically could release the bind between the prop and the key/pin.

Trying to remove a slightly damaged prop and I think the key is broken/locked. I've gotten the prop most of the way off, but the last couple of inches are really tight. I'm using a puller and hammer and probably grinding the key over the shaft threads if I had to guess. I've tried sticking a small screwdriver in the key hole and hammering it either direction, no dice. With the puller I'm past the point it can pull, so added a spacer but it's slow going. Going to try mapgas next, but I'm not sure it'll help since it's not "stuck", it's a busted key. Any other advice? I'm trying to avoid drilling the key or cutting the shaft threads.....

I picked my boat up last night from the GR location as it was also getting warranty gel coat repair. It was done quickly and I was happy with the timing. They also summarized the boat while it was there and everything seemed business as usual.

OP, you’ve probably figured this out by now, but I just learned in the past few days that the engines (at least my Raptor 410) are under warranty for 5 years or 600 hours. The boat is 5 years or 500 hours. So, hours do play into your calculus.