2 hours ago, dalt1 said:

Is that  steel key stock? Needs to be brass.

 

Agree, it looks like steel, and likely the reason you had a difficult time getting the prop off.  You have good advice on removing the key from the shaft now that the prop is off.  Any marks you make on the shaft will need to be Emory clothed off too. 

a couple of the manuals available here -

https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/malibu_specs.html/2002-sunscape-21-lsv-r108/

12 hours ago, Manzacoty said:

No water from anywhere else. I pulled the cap and used JB Weld for a temporary fix for now. Can you get a new end cap?

Is the cap flat on the business side?  Please show a photo of both sides.  It would seem that you could fabricate one from a piece of aluminum bar.

Now use your punch again, or a cold chisel, to strike the end of the key with an outward angled blow to lift it from the slot.  Once it comes up at all use a small punch or cold chisel and tap it between the key and shaft at the bottom of the slot.  You may need to grind a point on the punch.  Even a 12d nail should work after you get the key lifted at all.

On 4/5/2024 at 2:22 PM, Ramdni said:

I was unable to view the video, but I know from experience that the end caps on the LT4 heat exchangers can freeze & bust if you don't run the engine after removing the blue plugs. Five to 10 seconds should do it, never more than 30. 

Anyway, I'd recommend contacting your local Malibu/Axis dealer or contacting Malibu customer service (engine side) directly. They should have the end caps in stock.

Finding same results on a few Supra boats after winterizing by pulling plugs and draining. Not widely known but they are now saying to bump engine over after pulling plugs to move any pockets of water that didn't drain. Supra with the Raptor will sometimes crack a fitting at the bottom of heat exchanger if not bumped over.