Did you set the base timing correctly with the new distributor?  You have to put the ECM into service mode.

3 hours ago, Nick55 said:

I did replace the calipers.  I think I was able to identify them based off the stampings on them and then cross referenced to the UFP catalog (I think I linked it earlier in this thread), and ended up sourcing on Amazon from some trailer store.  They may have come from "Shadow Trailers" as well.  I'm not sure anymore.  https://www.google.com/search?q=ufp+db-35+caliper&rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS966US966&oq=UFP+DB&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgCEAAYgAQyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQLhiABBjlBDIHCAIQABiABDIHCAMQABiABDIHCAQQABiABDIHCAUQABiABDIHCAYQABiABDIHCAcQABiABDIHCAgQABiABNIBCDc3MThqMGoxqAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

The master I got from Boatmate (their parts pricing was better, even shipped). https://www.boatmateparts.com/product_details.php?itmId=1827 

If calipers are hanging up with the master locked out, you either have a caliper sticking like I previously showed in the video link, or you could have a bad hose that is failed internally.  I really truly doubt that's the case for you because it's all wheels at different situations.  I guess it's possible the main feed line is damaged coming off the master cylinder if you have a folding tongue, but I'd seriously doubt it.  

 

Did you already bleed the brakes?  If so, what did the fluid look like that came out of the bleeder screws on the calipers? 

 

Also, now I'm just looking for a reason to make a work trip out to the RDU area, if I can/do, I'll make some time to swing by and see what's going on.  Can't guarantee that I'll be out there though.

 

The dealer/shop supposedly bled the brake lines when they installed the right front wheel last July. So I didn't do that again when I replaced the brake pads on the other 3 wheels (and greased the hubs) in Feb.

Right now my boat is 120 miles away at Gaston. Thinking of taking Friday off and going up there to work on it. My plan of attack will be:

- Loosen all 4 castle nuts. HAND TIGHTEN and then back off to the next available slot for the cotter pin. Check for good spin on each tire. Check stoppage by actuating brakes (I think I can just pull on the emergency brake line). Road test and check thermals. If ok, then problem fixed!

- If temps still high, bleed brake lines. I am thinking I have to have all 4 wheels removed for this. Road test.

- If temps still high. Replace bearings on one wheel. Check old ones for damage. Check spindle for damage. Pack grease. Pump in grease. Road test and check that one wheel vs the others.

If all of those produce no difference....I dunno. Buy a new trailer?

2 hours ago, Bozboat said:

I'm thinking the hilly curvy road might be the problem and all four brakes, or three of four are working as they should.  Can you take it out for a 15 or 20 mile straight flat straight trip and then measure the same?

Straight sections also produced high temps. The first 3 stops were on fairly flat/straight sections. But the hilly/curvy section had the most dramatic numbers.

Thanks

8 hours ago, RyanB said:

FWIW, Malibu touts this model as both "the most versatile crossover towboat" and "pro-level slalom wakes".

I'd be upset if a large purchase like this doesn't come close to living up to my expectations.  I also think it is wise to research manufacturer claims as much as possible prior to purchase.

The Cut Diamond Hull is indeed tournament-approved and does deliver pro-level slalom wakes...when configured as a direct drive.    

I have to switch the radio mode to AUX to get it to work (when it worked).  If there is a better way to set it up for BT, I’d rather do that. If upgrading the whole radio/audio is the best way to do it, I’m open to that too. Doesn’t help to have $60k into a boat for wake surfing and not have any music to listen to! 😉

I had the same problem, ended up being a voltage issue. 1 of my 3 batteries went bad, replaced it and it was good to go!