Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

  • Recent Posts

    • Depending on your actuator style, you likely need one of these two lockouts.  However, you can also jack up the wheels and give them a spin.  You should feel some friction due to the weight of the rotating assembly but not dragging. For ease of diag, I’d do that, then remove the caliper from the axle and see if the hub still turns the same. 
      UFP brake lockout tools

      Edited by Nick55
    • MikeR397

      Posted (edited)

      In case anyone is wondering, 43mph seems the top speed in a T220 with m6 and a standard 2257 (iirc the number) prop. Pretty much right where I expected it. The wake hull’s drag get exponential above 35 and even the LT4 doesn’t seem to add more than 7mph to this number (if it was available in a T220). 

      Edited by MikeR397
    • CarveItUp228

      Posted

      54 minutes ago, Nick55 said:

      Wheels and hubs should be warm but not burn your hand.  If your hubs have been serviced and spindle nuts not overtightened, brake caliper sticking would be my first guess. I’ve checked this after having a hot wheel end by jacking up the offending wheel, removing the tire, then attempting to spin the hub, then compare after removing the caliper.  If the hub spins freely, then use a large channel locks to try pushing the piston back in the caliper once you remove the pads.  You can also try locking out the brakes at the actuator and road testing for a few minutes.  If the wheels are still overheating, loosen the bleeder screw on the hot wheel end brake caliper and see if you get fluid shooting out.  Repeat the drive with and see if it still gets hot.  If so, then it is hanging up at that wheel end, not the brake actuator or hose. 

      How do you "lock out the breaks at the actuator?"

       

      I know the breaks are engaged unless the tow vehicle is pulling at the hitch and moving the break piston forward - releasing the surge breaks. When you break, compressing the piston, it applies the breaks. I have tried sticking a screwdriver in the slot on the underside of the trailer tongue and pushing back or forth....seemed to make very little difference in what the breaks at each wheel were doing....so I know I am not doing something right.

       

    • 2 hours ago, dizzygti said:

      My 2023 T250 will shut off and restart if you try to skip tracks, whether playing bluetooth from an Android or Apple phone.    It does this about half the time, the other half it works as intended.  After restart, it resumes from the same place on the same song.    WetSoundsTech will tell you to have the dealer verify the software version, but I didn't get far going that route.    

      Yep! Me to!

    • Dirtysidedown

      Posted

      The LED light over the trash door is intermittent.  I can see where the wires go to bullet connectors behind the cubby liner.  The liner doesn’t have enough flex to pull the wire up.  I think the liner needs to be removed.  I don’t see any screws holding it in.  The only thing that might be securing the liner in place appears to be the 2 speakers.  Is that the case?  Remove the speakers and the liner will fall out to change out the LED??

       

       

  • Member Statistics

    42,394
    Total Members
    8,865
    Most Online
    Taylorfamily
    Newest Member
    Taylorfamily
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...