I didn't mean to lead you on a wild goose chase, but it is good to hear that you found the problem.

46 minutes ago, MikeR397 said:

In case anyone is wondering, 43mph seems the top speed in a T220 with m6 and a standard 2257 (iirc the number) prop. Pretty much right where I expected it. The wake hull’s drag get exponential above 35 and even the LT4 doesn’t seem to add more than 7mph to this number (if it was available in a T220). 

2277 but yeah that's right there, I hit 44mph on perfect conditions with a little ripple in the water surface.   so same/same. 

2 hours ago, csleaver said:

There could be damaged wires in the engine or boat wiring harness, an internal problem with the ECM, or you may want to re-check the engine relays and fuses.  The switched ignition circuit must be powered for the ECM or CAN to function.  If you can't hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds or the electric throttle buzz when the emergency keyswitch is turned on, then you may have a problem with the ignition circuit or ECM.

When I am trying to narrow down where an electrical problem may be that affects the CAN or causes a no-crank, I often use a separation harness and Diacom.  A separation harness is a simple connector and wiring to allow a keyswitch to be connected directly to the 16‐pin engine harness.  By separating the boat wiring from the engine wiring, it is easier to find where the issue may be.  For example, if the engine cranks and starts when the engine harness is connected to a separation harness instead of to the boat harness, and if Diacom will also connect and read data from the engine ECM using the engine harness DLC, then the problem isn't in the engine electrical system and there must be a problem with the boat electrical system.

We used to make the separation harness ourselves in Indmar training, but the same result can be achieved by jumping wires at the disconnected 16-pin engine harness connector.  By backprobing and connecting Pin A red wire with a jumper to Pin J purple wire, the ignition circuit is turned on.  To crank the engine, backprobe and briefly connect Pin A red wire to Pin S yellow wire.  To stop the running engine, disconnect the Pin A and Pin J jumper.  Never poke holes in the wires or insert probes directly into the connector pins.  Backprobing prevents damage to the connector pins and wires.  Be very careful, it is important not to touch or short the wrong wires.

CSleaver

This is going to sound lame and stupid. I literally have almost 9 hours chasing things down and tearing every module apart and I found the problem.  The issue was with one of the ground cables to the battery. On battery 1 the ground has a double connection to make a direct line to the stereo amp.  That ground was poor. 

I didn't think about that ground because I wasn't concerned with the stereo at the moment.  I should've just tore all the battery connections apart from the start.

Good news is I learned a lot about the boat the past two days. I also found some lighting connections that looked poor so I redid them.

Thank you for all your help.  I seriously wouldn't have gotten it without chasing down the wires and connections you pointed me towards.

Depending on your actuator style, you likely need one of these two lockouts.  However, you can also jack up the wheels and give them a spin.  You should feel some friction due to the weight of the rotating assembly but not dragging. For ease of diag, I’d do that, then remove the caliper from the axle and see if the hub still turns the same. 
UFP brake lockout tools

In case anyone is wondering, 43mph seems the top speed in a T220 with m6 and a standard 2257 (iirc the number) prop. Pretty much right where I expected it. The wake hull’s drag get exponential above 35 and even the LT4 doesn’t seem to add more than 7mph to this number (if it was available in a T220).