4 minutes ago, CarveItUp228 said:

 

Thanks for the verifications!

So, to "simply push the whole coupler/actuator back into the tongue," do you use ratchet straps for that? I believe it does take quite a bit of force?

 

 

Screwdriver in the access hole on the bottom of the actuator up front near the coupler.  

-Or-

You can stand a 2x4 up in front of the coupler then wrap the safety chains around the bottom of 2x4.  Then push on the top of the 2x4 (towards the back of the trailer).  This should allow you to push the actuator in and simulate the brakes working.  

12 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

1) Correct

2) Right

3) yes

4) yes or simply push the whole coupler/actuator back into the trailer tongue 

5) you can link a video 

Thanks for the verifications!

So, to "simply push the whole coupler/actuator back into the tongue," do you use ratchet straps for that? I believe it does take quite a bit of force?

1) Correct

2) Right

3) yes

4) yes or simply push the whole coupler/actuator back into the trailer tongue 

5) you can link a video 

Definitely check the fuel pressure before replacing any parts.  You should have ~42 PSI at key on, idle, and WOT.

Get the interior of the throttle body clean with some carb cleaner spray.  Make sure to get all of the side passages and the butterfly edge clean.  Open the throttle to get good access.

Rather than throw parts blindly at it, download the MEFI 2 service manual and perform the tests in the book.  The PCM manual is fine if you can't find the one from Indmar.

You can also build or buy your own MEFI interface and read data from the ECM.

OK, some questions here for the experts:

1. If my trailer is sitting in my garage, fairly level, with nothing pulling on the tongue, the brakes should not be engaged at all, correct? So if I jack up one side and try to spin the wheel, it should spin, correct?

2. Using a "lockout" mechanism is to be able to back the trailer up without the brakes being applied if your vehicle does not have the right electrical connection to "tell" the trailer not to engage the brakes? If you have the 7-pin connector in place you should be good for that, right?

3. Another use of the lockout mechanism is to be able to disengage your brakes, if, while on the road, your brakes are engaging and heating up and you want to let them cool? Should not use long-term as it means no trailer brakes and your stopping distance would be longer, thus more dangerous?

4. If, while sitting level in the garage, you want to simulate the brakes being applied (compression at the tongue to engage surge brakes) you use a screwdriver in the slot on underside of tongue, pushing the piston back, so as to simulate the compression? While doing this, someone can try to spin the wheel and see if brakes engage.

Can we embed video here or only a link to a video?

Thanks