The LED light over the trash door is intermittent.  I can see where the wires go to bullet connectors behind the cubby liner.  The liner doesn’t have enough flex to pull the wire up.  I think the liner needs to be removed.  I don’t see any screws holding it in.  The only thing that might be securing the liner in place appears to be the 2 speakers.  Is that the case?  Remove the speakers and the liner will fall out to change out the LED??

There could be damaged wires in the engine or boat wiring harness, an internal problem with the ECM, or you may want to re-check the engine relays and fuses.  The switched ignition circuit must be powered for the ECM or CAN to function.  If you can't hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds or the electric throttle buzz when the emergency keyswitch is turned on, then you may have a problem with the ignition circuit or ECM.

When I am trying to narrow down where an electrical problem may be that affects the CAN or causes a no-crank, I often use a separation harness and Diacom.  A separation harness is a simple connector and wiring to allow a keyswitch to be connected directly to the 16‐pin engine harness.  By separating the boat wiring from the engine wiring, it is easier to find where the issue may be.  For example, if the engine cranks and starts when the engine harness is connected to a separation harness instead of to the boat harness, and if Diacom will also connect and read data from the engine ECM using the engine harness DLC, then the problem isn't in the engine electrical system and there must be a problem with the boat electrical system.

We used to make the separation harness ourselves in Indmar training, but the same result can be achieved by jumping wires at the disconnected 16-pin engine harness connector.  By backprobing and connecting Pin A red wire with a jumper to Pin J purple wire, the ignition circuit is turned on.  To crank the engine, backprobe and briefly connect Pin A red wire to Pin S yellow wire.  To stop the running engine, disconnect the Pin A and Pin J jumper.  Never poke holes in the wires or insert probes directly into the connector pins.  Backprobing prevents damage to the connector pins and wires.  Be very careful, it is important not to touch or short the wrong wires.

Wheels and hubs should be warm but not burn your hand.  If your hubs have been serviced and spindle nuts not overtightened, brake caliper sticking would be my first guess. I’ve checked this after having a hot wheel end by jacking up the offending wheel, removing the tire, then attempting to spin the hub, then compare after removing the caliper.  If the hub spins freely, then use a large channel locks to try pushing the piston back in the caliper once you remove the pads.  You can also try locking out the brakes at the actuator and road testing for a few minutes.  If the wheels are still overheating, loosen the bleeder screw on the hot wheel end brake caliper and see if you get fluid shooting out.  Repeat the drive with and see if it still gets hot.  If so, then it is hanging up at that wheel end, not the brake actuator or hose. 

This is what I saw on etrailer.com

Question:

Ive been running your red grease in my 3500# Dexter axles with electric brakes on my 16 ft tandem axle trailer. I decided to check the hub temperature on my last trip with a load. After 2 hours the temp was 115-125 deg F. After 4 hours it was up to 150-160 deg F. Is this normal? The return trip unloaded showed about the same. Ambient was in the low 90s. The temps are pretty close on all four hubs.

asked by: Bill H

Expert Reply:

Yes, the temperatures you mentioned are normal. If you were getting over 200 degrees that would be a bad sign. But typically if all of the hubs are the same temperature you're good and it's only really an issue if one of the hubs is hotter than others.

I would not recommend replacing a failed post catalyst temperature sensor.  They tend to fail often due to the sensor element being damaged when exposed to heat and moisture in the exhaust downpipe.  Even the newer replacement sensors are prone to failure, just not as often as the original sensors were.  The MEFI5B ECM used in 2008 Indmar engines were designed to use the post catalyst temperature sensors as a very basic way to check for catalyst efficiency by testing the exhaust heat.  Indmar catalyst engines in 2007 had no post cat sensors, and the 2009 or newer catalyst engines used post cat O2 sensors (and a different ECM).

Indmar MEFI5B ECMs can be reprogrammed by any Indmar dealer that has Diacom and the authoring files provided by Rinda to Indmar dealers.  The new calibration will prevent a fault alarm at the helm or an engine derate when the code occurs.  The fault codes will still be active in the ECM, but they will not cause an alarm or any running issues after reprogramming. 

The alternate repair is to rewire the existing post catalyst temperature sensor harnesses.  The harness wires on the sensor can be cut between the metal sensor and the connector that plugs into the engine harness.  Just wire in a 470 ohm resistor between the two cut harness wires, tape it up or cover it with heat shrink, and then reconnect the modified sensor wire to the engine harness connector just like it was before.  This will send a signal to the ECM which mimicks a properly working post cat temperature sensor to prevent alarms or running issues. 

There are service bulletins from Indmar for both of these repair methods.