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  • Recent Posts

    • I have been doing a lot of the same on mine. Where the bolts stick through in spots I have been replacing them with shorter bolts when possible and capping the ones I cant with plastic caps. One of my brand new BABZ was assaulted by a bolt in the locker which was the last straw. 😡 I have also had to sand down some of the fiberglass razor blades in the bilge that remove meat and in the rear lockers that have scuffed up some jackets. I love my boat, but some of the construction processes will definitely take the fan boy wind out of your sails! 

    • The Hulk


      Good fix I keep a screwdriver in the boat and hit all sorts of screws all the time been meaning to do something like this when I get time especially on rear hatches as we use ours a ton getting in and out access to gear and jackets.. good fix! Although IMO these things should be standard, it is 2020 and all.. fo the cost of a house they could put $50 better hardware into these boats.. but then it would require an extra hour on assembly line. Ha

      Oh and measure 2x drill once .. I heard that as a kid somewhere haha

    • TallRedRider


      I noticed that the hinges on my seats seemed loose in a couple of places.  Much to my surprise, I found that the seat hinges were attached with wood screws through the lip of fiberglass, and had become loose.  This comes as no surprise when you realize that the fiberglass in this area is about 1/4 inch thick.  There just isn't enough purchase on the fiberglass to keep the screws from becoming loose.  And it always does make me a little uneasy to have the sharp ends sticking into the storage compartment, even if they are tucked up under the lip.  I also noticed that although the hinge is clearly beveled so that a beveled screw could be placed, they used flat head screws, making it even more likely that the hinge will wobble and eventually make the screw come loose.  

      So I went to the hardware store and for about 7 dollars fixed the problem on all of my seats.  I placed a stainless beveled bolt, and a washer and nylock nut on the back side.  It was not difficult at all.  

      Here is what the final product looks like.  


      This is the factory screw on the right, and the new bolt, nylock nut and washer.  Note how the factory screw is not beveled to fit properly into the hinge.  


      I was a little surprised when I removed the hinge, that I was not the first guy to redo it. Although at the factory, they apparently had to drill new holes to put it in the right location. :cry::Doh:




      • Like 2
    • 41 minutes ago, BlitzedVLX said:

      Awesome thanks for the input guys. I am going to go with the 580lb bags. I sent wakemakers a message. Will post back with the ones I went with

      I think your boat has the bigger L shaped tanks in the back, is so, those bags are the right choice.  I have the wakemakers custom 870lbs in my 2015 with the underfloor 250 lb tanks and honestly wish there was an option for more.  

    • I would think there would be some rub rail ware over time with that set up. Not sure how the boat would react to a hard braking emergency. Doesnt seem like the boat is locked down to the trailer as it would be with the rubber roller. I have seen that vertical set up before, so perhaps there is nothing wrong with it.

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