On 5/3/2024 at 9:50 AM, familyfun said:

As of this morning, the Lewisville location is staying open, and in fact I was told that the Fort Worth techs are transferring over.  This could obviously change at any time, so I imagine there is some risk.  And again, if they don't have the necessary parts in stock locally, I doubt they will be able to do the repair.

So to piggy-back on this, yes, the FW store contact numbers will go directly to Lewisville BUT they still can't order parts.  But, if the parts are there, they can work on boats.  I will say the guys are trying to help out as much as possible.  It sounded like the employees were in the dark as much as customers.  I hope everyone who had boats at any of the Tommy's locations were able to get them before they were locked!!  Apparently, new ownership is in the works, but how long that will take is anybody's guess.   

2 hours ago, justgary said:

Just a slight clarification here for the OP.  "By wire" is generally taken to mean electronically.  This boat definitely has mechanical linkages for throttle and shift, so it is not "by wire".

Oops, meant to say last year BEFORE shift by wire.  Definitely two cables on the '05.  '06 went to the electronic throttle control.

Note that the @shawndoggy voltage chart referenced by @Bozboat above is resting voltage.  Fully charge the battery and let it rest for at least thirty minutes off the charger and then test the voltage.

My vote is that the bendix is fine but the commutator is full of carbon from the brushes.  The power of the starter is much less when the commutator resistance from pole to pole is not high enough.  Of course, it is a great idea to lube the bendix while you have the starter out.

1 hour ago, cowwboy said:

https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-archive/diy-surf-devices/surf-tabs-and-gates-r323/

boom!  thanks.  I'd like to see someone do this on a more current hull design Malibu or Axis with full size gates.  The poster there in WG (who I now really admire, btw) noted "I believe that a taller gate and/or more bow weight could help the wave in this configuration."  His gates are quite a bit smaller than OEM surfgates. 

Takeaway there for me is there is NO way my wife would figure out all the buttons and inputs necessary to operate that setup.  

Yea, Lake Elmo is about your only source for handle parts.  I do about half the rope/handle building/maintenance for our show team.  If you want good non/low-stretch rope for a reasonable price, then the TAC line Lake Elmo sells is the best bang for the buck (good stuff for basically everything but slalom).  You can go Spectra too, but that gets pricy and not as easy to source.  Slalom rope, however, is the only line I won't bother putting together.  I like S-lines for that - high quality, reasonable price. 

If you're building handles for slalom, I've taken to tubing from the V to the loop (anywhere the ski can touch during a start) (good for barefoot ropes too - easier on the feet on starts).  The top bevel on many of the newer carbon skis can be really sharp and damaging to a bare rope.  For tubing, any old 3/8" vinyl (ID) from the hardware store is fine, capped with the tube ends that Lake Elmo sells, or buy a bag from McMaster and punch your own holes (McMaster vinyl caps).  Aluminum knitting needles with the end cut off at a 45 make good fids for rope/handle building.