Get four larger bolts and a big socket and use the v drive to get it off. Here is how I got mine off. 
 

@MattZ As Nick55 pointed out there were two Illusion towers in 2008 the X and XS and I assume you have the XS. Besides the shape the main difference with the racks is that the X tower racks through bolted on the tower while the XS has threaded inserts.

Years ago, I replaced my wake forks with some surf forks from Star One and reused the existing swivel base. Doing a google search it looks like Star One has changed names and now is Titan Wake but run by the same folks so you might want to reach out to them. I remember them being super helpful in getting me the correct forks.

Let me know if you have any questions on your new 2008 as I've made just about every mistake you can think of.

Removing the v-drive isn't too difficult as long as there is enough space between it and the fuel tank.  The most common issue I've seen technicians have is getting to the very bottom fasteners on each side of the v-drive to transmission.  I use a slightly modified 5/8 closed end 12-point S-bend wrench to do it.

You should be able to buy the factory Shadow Caster/Wetsounds controller from your dealer. Then it's pretty much plug and play. The Can Buss is where the factory screen reads the control for the RGB lights. If you're just doing a drain plug RGB, it probably wont be smart money spent. That controller is the only way you'll get factory control.

18 minutes ago, Kristen22 said:

they took full charge

Was this confirmed with a volt meter or the charger? When dealing with a suspected electrical issue, I tend to never trust chargers or helm volt meters to tell me the state of a battery. I want to take that reading with a handheld diagnostic volt meter. How old are the batteries? If they have caps, has the water level been checked? 

I would also want to confirm the alternator is producing good voltage when the engine is running. 13.5 to a little over 14V is solid. 

With the stereo off, take note and disconnect the RCA cables from the suspected amplifier and power the system on. There will be no music, but if the amp is the source, the popping will still be there. If gone, then its coming in from upstream.