Removing the v-drive isn't too difficult as long as there is enough space between it and the fuel tank.  The most common issue I've seen technicians have is getting to the very bottom fasteners on each side of the v-drive to transmission.  I use a slightly modified 5/8 closed end 12-point S-bend wrench to do it.

You should be able to buy the factory Shadow Caster/Wetsounds controller from your dealer. Then it's pretty much plug and play. The Can Buss is where the factory screen reads the control for the RGB lights. If you're just doing a drain plug RGB, it probably wont be smart money spent. That controller is the only way you'll get factory control.

18 minutes ago, Kristen22 said:

they took full charge

Was this confirmed with a volt meter or the charger? When dealing with a suspected electrical issue, I tend to never trust chargers or helm volt meters to tell me the state of a battery. I want to take that reading with a handheld diagnostic volt meter. How old are the batteries? If they have caps, has the water level been checked? 

I would also want to confirm the alternator is producing good voltage when the engine is running. 13.5 to a little over 14V is solid. 

With the stereo off, take note and disconnect the RCA cables from the suspected amplifier and power the system on. There will be no music, but if the amp is the source, the popping will still be there. If gone, then its coming in from upstream. 

I am looking for the manufacturer and part number for the port side front windshield on a 2015 LSV 23.  Also, has anyone replaced this before and who did you use? Will I need to remove the entire frame including side window and ship to the replacement company?

Yes, and the spanner is wedged against the floor so you can put as much torque on the nut as possible with a socket/wrench.

My back and shoulder are sore from pulling on this so hard.

I'm thinking (but don't want to) of pulling the Vdrive off so I can put an impact gun on it. I have never pulled a vdrive off before