Based on the described use, you are best to have one Cranking and one Deep-cycle battery. The deep-cycle is better for the house loads. 

Now, the answer to core question, you need enough battery Ah. More Ah came in the form of a larger battery than the current or adding another deep-cycle in parallel to the existing house battery to make one larger battery. Just note. its not ideal to wire a new battery to an old battery. So if you go the 2-battery house bank route, start with 2 new same size and type batteries.  

So, we had some water in the center ski locker. Rather than pulling out the plug through the hull, I opened the opened the plastic plug that I thought/assumed would drain that water back to the bilge where I could then drain in out the transom plug which was already out. However, I was surprised to see a gush of water coming IN to the center ski locker area. The bilge was (or should have been) completely dry already since the transom plug had been out after 20+ miles of trailering, including some long and steep inclines.

So, what I'm wondering...

Where was that water coming from that was "trapped" in the boat and gushing into the ski locker despite having seemingly already drained the bilge completely dry?

I'm also unable to get the thru-hull plug out in the center ski locker. The prior owner or whoever put that in last, tightened that thing so damn tight. I'm out of options to find ways I can get enough leverage to loosen that thing. Any tips would be appreciated on that as well.

I'm thinking the hilly curvy road might be the problem and all four brakes, or three of four are working as they should.  Can you take it out for a 15 or 20 mile straight flat straight trip and then measure the same?

Hello,  we have a 2012 wakesetter.  The prior owner was the original owner.  He put an accessory on the boat so he could Bluetooth music from a phone.  Last fall we started having issues with it intermittently.  This year our phone will show “connected” but there is no audio.  I think the accessory is just worn out. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a new accessory for Bluetooth?

First time poster, so go easy on me! 

I recently picked up a nice 2004 Wakesetter for next to nothing because it had a cracked block.  (Chevy Vortec 5.7)

The previous owner kept everything in tip-top shape, he just forgot to get it winterized before our first freeze.  He had a shop test all the components, such as the ECU and the alternator and the fuel injectors, ETC., and they are all fine.  That shop quoted him a super-high price to replace the engine, which is why I got the boat for such a good price.  Anyway, I've replaced the engine with a new remanufactured one.  I'm used to replacing standard inboard/outboard engines, so this direct drive was a breeze compared. 

Prior to removing the original, I brought it up to TDC on the compression stroke.  I scribed a line on the distributor housing, and the intake manifold.  I then scribed a line to show the exact placement of the rotor.

After the new engine was installed, I primed the oil system (Royal Purple break-in oil), then installed the distributor.  It took a few minutes of fiddling with the oil pump tang to get everything lined up, but I was able to accomplish getting it all back in and lined-up perfectly.  I turned the key to the on position to prime the fuel system, then cranked it over.  It fired up and ran perfectly after about three cranks.  I ran it in the driveway on the fake-a-lake at about 1800 rpm's under no load for about an hour.  No leaks, and everything seems to be great.

So here's my question (sorry for such a long-winded explanation):  Do I still need to time this engine?  Or does the ECU take over and make it right as long ad I'm close?  I've heard of a special plug that I can buy that puts me in "base mode" or something, then I should set it at 10 degrees BTDC.  Can someone guide me on this?  I don't want to put a load on this engine until I'm sure everything is correct.  Thanks in advance.