The part I am looking for looks like the red cap shown on this picture (the one circled to the right):

I believe it's this linked below, and any 3/8 id hose from the auto parts store will work.

https://www.bakesonline.com/indmar-pcv-valve-straight-fitting-for-all-gm-marine-engines.html

Just a few other things if somebody hasn't already covered it (this is a pretty long thread, so somebody probably did).  Tighten the hub nut very securely when initially installing it (maybe around 20-25 lbs/ft), then loosen the nut again before it torqued to the 18-20 lbs/inch.

The most common issue I have seen with the hydraulic braking system is trapped air or water intrusion.  Air in the system can expand when heated causing the brakes to drag. Water contamination can cause the same problem as well as attributes to internal corrosion.  The master cylinder should not be submerged in water, and if it is then the fluid should be checked.  There are inexpensive DOT3 brake fluid testers available on Amazon.  When bleeding the brakes, I always start with the wheel with the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder (left front), then go to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder (right rear), then the right front, the left rear, and finish up by doing the left front again.  With a hose and fluid reservoir connected to the caliper bleed screw, manual bleeding using a screwdriver and the master cylinder lower service hole or using a pressure bleeder works the best.  I've used shop air vacuum bleeders, but have occational had trouble removing all of the air on the 1st or even the 2nd try with them.

On 6/2/2024 at 9:51 AM, travesty42 said:

 

Three, Boat2Trailer Hookup latch on the winch stand.

 

Care to add anything here? I've seen this and thought about it.  Looks pretty cool and handy, but was curious about real world reviews.

Would anyone know where I can find that part? Or at least get the part number and I could look it up.

Thank you Crew,