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  • Recent Posts

    • On 5/29/2024 at 9:31 PM, csleaver said:

      The 2023 wakesetter boat side harness to engine harness uses a Delphi 15544899 connector housing with 13663718, 13783293, and 13783290 terminals, and 13756464 blank plugs.

      Position: A-plug, B-14 gauge ground, C-plug, D-16 gauge ECM ignition, E-16 gauge starter, F-plug, G-14 gauge ground, H-18 gauge ECM CAN Hi, J-18 gauge ECM CAN Lo, K-16 gauge throttle PPS1 5V, L-16 gauge throttle PPS1 ground, M-16 gauge PPS1 signal, N-plug, P-plug, R-16 gauge throttle PPS2 signal, S-16 gauge shift forward, T-16 gauge shift reverse, U-16 gauge shift neutral1, V-16 gauge shift neutral2, W-16 gauge throttle PPS2 ground, X-16 gauge throttle PPS2 5V.

       

      @csleaver thank you so much for this information. This is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the help.

       

    • 40 minutes ago, justgary said:

      Countersink the top where the carriage head goes.  Hit it with a hammer and punch to seat it.  Jam a screwdriver in the hole against the head if you need more tension.

      On the other side, use a washer and nylock nut.  Don't use the regular nuts except if you need to pull the bolt heads deeper first.  They won't make the bolt heads spin like the nylock will, but you don't need them on the final product.

      As @Nick55 said, an impact wrench will allow you to just do the job without the hammer or extra tools.

      I see. You're saying to jam the screwdriver at the top at the head of the bolt. I don't own an impact wrench but I guess if I can't get it with the hammer/screwdriver approach, then I'll try that route.

      To your point about the regular nut, I agree it's probably not needed and see what you're saying now to use that to tighten the bolt and sink it into the wood a bit. I agree it's probably not needed but leaving it on might also keep some extra tension/pressure to keep that bolt in place when I put on the nylock nut?

      Anyways, I think I have enough ideas now to get this to work. Thanks!

       

      39 minutes ago, justgary said:

      By the way, it seems to me that the washer and nut will always be against metal, not wood.  Why does your photo show a washer against wood?

      Duh, I'm an idiot. You're right. The plate from the trailer that the wood is sitting on is what comes in contact with the washer. The photo I sent recently was just a pic of what I have at home. I put the washers and nuts on to avoid losing them while I figured out what to do.

       

       

    • Can’t thank you enough for the information. 

    • 37 minutes ago, Jordan22 said:

      I feel like that washer is going to be very important to so that the nuts don't just slip right through the hole of the wood once it softens and experiences a bit of rot.

      By the way, it seems to me that the washer and nut will always be against metal, not wood.  Why does your photo show a washer against wood?

    • Countersink the top where the carriage head goes.  Hit it with a hammer and punch to seat it.  Jam a screwdriver in the hole against the head if you need more tension.

      On the other side, use a washer and nylock nut.  Don't use the regular nuts except if you need to pull the bolt heads deeper first.  They won't make the bolt heads spin like the nylock will, but you don't need them on the final product.

      As @Nick55 said, an impact wrench will allow you to just do the job without the hammer or extra tools.

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