1 hour ago, CarveItUp228 said:

 

The dealer/shop supposedly bled the brake lines when they installed the right front wheel last July. So I didn't do that again when I replaced the brake pads on the other 3 wheels (and greased the hubs) in Feb.

 

Right now my boat is 120 miles away at Gaston. Thinking of taking Friday off and going up there to work on it. My plan of attack will be:

- Loosen all 4 castle nuts. HAND TIGHTEN and then back off to the next available slot for the cotter pin. Check for good spin on each tire. Check stoppage by actuating brakes (I think I can just pull on the emergency brake line). Road test and check thermals. If ok, then problem fixed!

- If temps still high, bleed brake lines. I am thinking I have to have all 4 wheels removed for this. Road test.

- If temps still high. Replace bearings on one wheel. Check old ones for damage. Check spindle for damage. Pack grease. Pump in grease. Road test and check that one wheel vs the others.

 

If all of those produce no difference....I dunno. Buy a new trailer?

 

Straight sections also produced high temps. The first 3 stops were on fairly flat/straight sections. But the hilly/curvy section had the most dramatic numbers.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I have never had my brakes, wheels, or hubs get that hot on a road trip, but I am a flat lander. 

I can’t seem to find the right bit through trial and error. Is it a specialty like a torx? I know it’s not torx but none of my Allen keys seem to get a good bite. Just the two in the center? I have 6 total-4 around the edges and two in the middle. 

Put a lock out key in your surge breaks and see if it still over heats. 

Thanks for the response.  I have replaced the fuel pump but can look into adding a low-pressure pump.  I only run ethanol-free fuel in the boat. 

You are describing what sounds like fuel vapor lock.  Using ethanol-free fuel may help.  A low-pressure pump between the tank and the standard fuel pump will also help.