I took my 2018 Axis T22 out for the first time this season and I noticed when I went to crank up the stereo the volume is very lower. I camn turn it up all the way and it's not very loud and sound slightly distorted. It doesn't matter if boat is on or off and auto volume control on or off. Auto volume does work when boat gets moving. I checked the basics, fuses are good, Amp is powered on with blue light all connections are good (from what I can tell), batteries are both charged at 12.5 v with boat off.

I either have SP1 package with added wet sounds tower speakers or the SP2. But I don't have a sub or bow speakers. Amp is a wetsounds and has some factory Amp thing with sirus/xm mounted next to it. I'm not great with stereos but I get the basics.

Amp/Wet sounds

Head unit/infinity mc30

Any help would be appreciated.

Until I can swap the cable I liberally sprayed some corrosion x hd in the port and on the rj45 connector. I was thinking maybe a contact problem so…. This product I think has some solvent for cleaning with dielectric grease. I only messed around for about an hour but so far no flickering. Too soon for a victory lap but if it works next time out I’ll report back. 

2 hours ago, CarveItUp228 said:

Loosen all 4 castle nuts. HAND TIGHTEN and then back off to the next available slot for the cotter pin. Check for good spin on each tire.

I prefer to overtighten the nuts until the tire has noticable drag, then loosen until the tire rotates freely.  This is hard to do with the brakes dragging the rotor.

The problem with starting from loose and going to tight is that the bearing will back out of the race and you will think it is tight when it really isn't.  A rough shake of the tire from top to bottom should tell you if they are loose.  You should not feel any motion during a shake test.

1 hour ago, CarveItUp228 said:

 

The dealer/shop supposedly bled the brake lines when they installed the right front wheel last July. So I didn't do that again when I replaced the brake pads on the other 3 wheels (and greased the hubs) in Feb.

 

Right now my boat is 120 miles away at Gaston. Thinking of taking Friday off and going up there to work on it. My plan of attack will be:

- Loosen all 4 castle nuts. HAND TIGHTEN and then back off to the next available slot for the cotter pin. Check for good spin on each tire. Check stoppage by actuating brakes (I think I can just pull on the emergency brake line). Road test and check thermals. If ok, then problem fixed!

- If temps still high, bleed brake lines. I am thinking I have to have all 4 wheels removed for this. Road test.

- If temps still high. Replace bearings on one wheel. Check old ones for damage. Check spindle for damage. Pack grease. Pump in grease. Road test and check that one wheel vs the others.

 

If all of those produce no difference....I dunno. Buy a new trailer?

 

Straight sections also produced high temps. The first 3 stops were on fairly flat/straight sections. But the hilly/curvy section had the most dramatic numbers.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I have never had my brakes, wheels, or hubs get that hot on a road trip, but I am a flat lander. 

I can’t seem to find the right bit through trial and error. Is it a specialty like a torx? I know it’s not torx but none of my Allen keys seem to get a good bite. Just the two in the center? I have 6 total-4 around the edges and two in the middle.