1 hour ago, kylegansel said:

I just checked the fuel pressure and it’s good. It’s about 58 psi to 60 psi key up and then around 62 psi at idle.

Check it at wide open throttle also to make sure it isn't going funky when the fuel is really flowing.  It should be the same.

10 hours ago, Randyz91 said:

Or what else could it be, there is power to the gauge cluster.

Your gauges are actually digital, not analog.  The sensors all feed into the MMDC, which then calculates the engineering units and sends digital signals to the gauges.  The great news about that is that all of the gauge connectors have all of the data on them.  You can swap wires to the gauges to make sure that it isn't just a bad wire.

The two most common problems are cracked solder joints at the main connectors inside the MMDC (remove the cover and resolder the connectors at the PC board), and dead stepper motors inside individual gauges (you can buy the steppers and replace them, but you have to cut the gauge open and then glue it back after the repair).

It is possible to buy a complete new gauge set that replaces the Medallion MMDC and gauges with a different system.  The bonus is that you then have glass over the gauges instead of plastic.

One of the things we do is I position the trailer so when the boat hits it I have to winch it up about a foot. That seems to help the boat center itself. Everytime. Maybe an inch off dead center which is okay. When loading, (wifey does this)..she starts heading toward the trailer with just enough throttle to keep it going straight. That means the boat will hit the trailer seemingly to fast..but it hits the bunks , stops and I winch it up. It is teamwork..we look like pros 95% of the time. Once winched up I pull forward look at boat in mirrors then get out of the way. Then transom straps for the long 1 mile long trip to our boat shed. You'll get it.

positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) 

hose should run from the spark arrestor to the valve cover and should include a small pcv valve

Answering my own question for those who might run into same:

Plugged in a cheap sub and it thumped a couple of times and then just started pulsing with no real sound and orange amp light came on again.  

Time for new amp (as well) I guess.  Amp must've gone bad and fried the sub.

Looking at a 1500W 5-channel Rockford Marine amp to just replace everything.  4x 100W RMS to tower speakers and 1x 400w RMS to sub.  Anyone have any positive or negative experience there?