I'm thinking the hilly curvy road might be the problem and all four brakes, or three of four are working as they should.  Can you take it out for a 15 or 20 mile straight flat straight trip and then measure the same?

Hello,  we have a 2012 wakesetter.  The prior owner was the original owner.  He put an accessory on the boat so he could Bluetooth music from a phone.  Last fall we started having issues with it intermittently.  This year our phone will show “connected” but there is no audio.  I think the accessory is just worn out. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a new accessory for Bluetooth?

First time poster, so go easy on me! 

I recently picked up a nice 2004 Wakesetter for next to nothing because it had a cracked block.  (Chevy Vortec 5.7)

The previous owner kept everything in tip-top shape, he just forgot to get it winterized before our first freeze.  He had a shop test all the components, such as the ECU and the alternator and the fuel injectors, ETC., and they are all fine.  That shop quoted him a super-high price to replace the engine, which is why I got the boat for such a good price.  Anyway, I've replaced the engine with a new remanufactured one.  I'm used to replacing standard inboard/outboard engines, so this direct drive was a breeze compared. 

Prior to removing the original, I brought it up to TDC on the compression stroke.  I scribed a line on the distributor housing, and the intake manifold.  I then scribed a line to show the exact placement of the rotor.

After the new engine was installed, I primed the oil system (Royal Purple break-in oil), then installed the distributor.  It took a few minutes of fiddling with the oil pump tang to get everything lined up, but I was able to accomplish getting it all back in and lined-up perfectly.  I turned the key to the on position to prime the fuel system, then cranked it over.  It fired up and ran perfectly after about three cranks.  I ran it in the driveway on the fake-a-lake at about 1800 rpm's under no load for about an hour.  No leaks, and everything seems to be great.

So here's my question (sorry for such a long-winded explanation):  Do I still need to time this engine?  Or does the ECU take over and make it right as long ad I'm close?  I've heard of a special plug that I can buy that puts me in "base mode" or something, then I should set it at 10 degrees BTDC.  Can someone guide me on this?  I don't want to put a load on this engine until I'm sure everything is correct.  Thanks in advance.

In automotive (similar systems, largely same batteries and use cycles) it's RARE to have a battery be good much out beyond 3 years.  I test customers' batteries every day, and probably 1/3-1/2 fail at their rated load capacity 12-14 months old - even though they will start and run the vehicle fine most days, until ambient temps approach freezing.  If the batteries are 3 or more years older, I'd replace them with as high a rated ones as you can find, or get them tested at a minimum.

How has the cover held up long term? Any issues with rubbing?