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Hey all, I'm new here. I posted a WTB ad recently looking for a trailer for a 247 LSV. I am in process of purchasing a boat that doesn't have a trailer and the dealer has been trying to sell me a universal fit model they have in stock. Since I tow a good amount and am most concerned with fit and safety, I have approached several builders, including Boatmate, Loadmaster, and Phoenix. Boatmate essentially pushed me to a dealer which happens to be a competitor of the one selling the boat when I had some questions about spec'ing, Phoenix and Loadmaster were willing to at least talk with me but the quotes for all three have been eye-watering to say the least ($10,900-13,900 as basic trailers, no fancy wheels or lights). I understand finding a used trailer for a boat that's been out of production this long is very unlikely, but I figured someone here might be able to advise, are there any other Malibus with the same hull? I know it's a V25 Diamond hull on the 247, but will any newer models use trailers that will fit, like a 25LSV or anything? Secondly, I've been spec'ing a tandem axle trailer expecting a 6700lb boat (figure full fuel and gear) to assume some conservative loading, but does tongue weight become too low if I were to find a triple axle? I think Boatmate built a few for the 247. I could use some input on my issues. Nick

I am looking for help. Last weekend I experienced the "loss of CAN Signal" with some erratic behavior. It was inconsistent, but affected seemingly all areas of the boat except ballast controls, audio, and aux switches. Sometimes it would start immediately after the 4th digit of the code was entered, sometimes it would not start at all, sometimes it needed key start. I tried to disable the 4 digit code and it started as soon as I hit the power button (Scary!) Most times I need to hit the main power button to stop the engine. Gauges all seem to freeze, showing no rpms, voltage, etc. I do seem to see engine, air and water temp. I have gone everywhere that I can find to check grounds, loose connections, etc. I left the one year old batteries on a trickle charger all week. so I am pretty confident in them. Over the past few months I have seen some occasional issues flare up wit the depth finder. For example, when I am floating in 20' of water, the depth might read 2' for a minute or 2 then revert back to a reasonable number. Is there any easy way to isolate this from the system to identify if a bad transducer might be the issue? When I trace the depth finer transducer wire form the depth finder, it disappears into a stringer before any connections... What other steps can I take? I really don't want to haul this ting out of the water if I can avoid it and I am sure that anything but routine maintenance from dealer mobile crew is begging for a long and expensive process just to troubleshoot. We have alot of summer left and I would really appreciate any advice / education that any of you can offer. I am pretty sound mechanically, but I never have been good at all of that mysterious electrical stuff!

Happy New Year time to get to work on the boat. I had a weird "stiff spot or break over spot" on my 2008 Wakesetter LSV 247. I was going to just change the cable but I notices play on the back side of he column, so I took it out. Is the steering wheel shaft itself supposed to be firm-ish. It does not grind or bind but is is stiffer than I expected. Bakes has a whole new unit for about $200 so should I just do the swap and maybe the rack too with the cable? I assume I can't get that shaft and press the bearing out easily?

Anyone have any suggestions on a seat riser for 2015 247 LSV?