Power Wedge Not Moving

[CarveItUp228]

OK, I was out on the water last weekend and everything seemed to go fine with the wedge until I was headed for the dock to ramp out. The wedge would not come back up to the stow position. I had to ramp out with it down, which was not ideal but ok.

 

So now it is stuck in the down position. I checked the fuse at the stern port side and it was not tripped. I tried to use the Debug Assist on the dash and nope, although I can hear a click when I push the + or -.

 

Any suggestions for the troubleshooting approach from here?

 

Thanks

 

[csleaver]

There could be a problem with the power wedge actuator, the 6-pack relay box, or any of the connections between the relay box and the actuator.  It is also important to check the cable connections at the power distribution post on the port stringer near the transmission, the ground cables at the engine block/starter, and the connections on the breaker panel in the port aft compartment.  Low system voltage, loose/corroded connections, or a failed component can cause problems with the power wedge. 

[PNWoke]

You should be able to use a stubby flathead and manually lift it back up.  Fwiw when my 4/6 pack relay went out, it would deploy all the way to lift position and stay there until I manually stowed it.  Was less than $400 fix but it took a long time to get the new relay harness set.  Definitely follow the advice of @csleaver.  You might find a loose connection in the circuit.  Good luck 👍🏼 

[CarveItUp228]

OK, I did some troubleshooting. I did not find any loose connections. I decided to go ahead and remove the actuator so I could bench-test it. So that means cutting the motor wires where they come through the transom and then pulling them out the back. These are blue and green wires for me, maybe 6 gauge?

I used a spare 12V boat battery and touched the wires to the posts. I got one short sound and then nothing. So I assume this means the actuator motor is dead. Or is there a better way to test it?

Replacement parts, I suppose to no surprise, are ridiculously priced. Malibu Parts has one for $1607. Yikes. I have spent $5K over the past 12 months on maintenance for this boat, which is only 6 years old. I am trying to stay positive but I am starting to wonder about Malibu quality at this point. Once the warranty expired at 5 yrs, it has been a constant avalanche of needed repairs. I do use it alot, but I take pretty good care of it. Anyway, sorry for the moment of rant there.

Any other ideas for parts or even, is it worthwhile to crack into the actuator unit to try to service at a sub-part level?

 

As always, appreciate the help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PNWoke]

Here’s a link to the part pdf through Parker.  It does say that it’s a sealed unit and no spare parts, really only lists thermal breaker issues if it gets too hot which is unlikely with your symptoms. The pdf recommends to talk to Parker or their dealer to possibly send in for repair.  That may or may not bear fruit but that’s what I would do.  At least there’s a fair stock of them available in case you have to bite the bullet.  In the mean time, have fun with your boat without the wedge.  I had to go without mine for 10 months and it really wasn’t that big of a deal.  We just had to get a little better at surfing on smaller waves which made us better in the long run.  If you were so inclined you could probably rig up a device to turn your auto wedge into a manual wedge while you sort out a permanent fix.  
 

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Hydraulic-Pump-Division/Oildyne-EHA/Compact-EHA-Instruction-Manual-HY22-3200B-7-13.pdf

Edited April 8 by PNWoke

[Nick55]

To be honest, I’d see if the boat will actuate an incandescent light bulb as well.   Parker Hannifin likely has a rebuild program through someone.  Or, it should be able to be sourced somewhere else too by the PH part number.  

[Kojak]

Both @PNWoke and I had the relay go out on our 2015s. It's actually an easy fix. My dealer had the part sent next day and I had it installed in an hour or so. 

 

[CarveItUp228]

OK, I sent an email to Parker Hannifin, asking about servicing. Will see what they come back with. Does Malibu service anything on the boat? Haven't tried reaching out directly to them.

 

[Nick55]

It’s worth asking but working at a vehicle OEM, my guess is they replace at the assembly level instead of rebuilding components.  Before you send it off, I’d check the boat wiring by running the actuator switch again with the incandescent bulb.  These actuators draw a pretty significant current load and a bad relay as mentioned could be the cause.  While I like your bench test of the actuator itself, it’s also possible you had poor connections if just touching the wires to the battery terminals.  
 

I’m going to keep digging for more PH info for you today. I might be able to come up with something.

[Nick55]

On page 6 of the link PNWoke provided, there's instructions for opening the "emergency" bypass.  If you turn that red colored screw counterclockwise to it's stop, you can check the rod for free movement by pulling it out and pushing it back in.  Based off what I see in that document, you could also run the motor while it's in bypass and see if it turns on as well.  To re-engage the bypass, turn the screw clockwise until it stops.

 

[CarveItUp228]

OK Parker bounced me around a bit but ultimately sent me this reply:

 

--------------------------------------------

648535               
EC5LA-BEJ-1R4322-CCEZ

This unit is proprietary to TH Marine.

You would need to go through them for same OEM replacement

These units are not serviceable.

Will need to purchase new.

 

 

Thank You,

Todd 

-----------------------------

Not the response I was hoping for. Dang.

 

 

[CarveItUp228]

I can also test the voltage across the wires that (used to) lead to the actuator while running the wedge from the dash.

[Nick55]

Remember voltage doesn’t equal current…. You can have 12 volts but a bunch of broken wire strands in that wire.  Meaning it wouldn’t light a light bulb or move an actuator but it passes the voltage test. 

[CarveItUp228]

9 hours ago, Nick55 said:

Remember voltage doesn’t equal current…. You can have 12 volts but a bunch of broken wire strands in that wire.  Meaning it wouldn’t light a light bulb or move an actuator but it passes the voltage test. 

The actuator has 47A stamped on it. It would be a challenge to simulate that. A light bulb doesn't pull many amps does it?

 

 

[Nick55]

True. But reconnecting it and using an amp clamp would get you close to a real reading. 
I wouldn’t expect it to be bad unless there is water intrusion, especially if the bypass screw allows the shaft to slide in and out freely.  I’d be far more suspect of bad relays causing this issue.

Also, since PH’s response told you the supplier is TH Marine, that is likely who Malibu buys it from.  I’d see if you can get it from TH Marine if you have to replace it.  

[oldjeep]

Did you try connecting the wires on the motor straight to a battery?  That'll eliminate any worries about wiring/relays in the boat.  If that doesn't make it move then I would separate the motor from the pump and try it again.  That'll tell you if the motor is toast - maybe, or if the pump is seized up.  Since it needs replacement, not really any harm in taking it apart and trying to determine if the issue is home fixable.  Motor or pump may be rebuildable by local 3rd party that works on such things.

[justgary]

33 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Did you try connecting the wires on the motor straight to a battery?  That'll eliminate any worries about wiring/relays in the boat.  If that doesn't make it move then I would separate the motor from the pump and try it again.  That'll tell you if the motor is toast - maybe, or if the pump is seized up.  Since it needs replacement, not really any harm in taking it apart and trying to determine if the issue is home fixable.  Motor or pump may be rebuildable by local 3rd party that works on such things.

This.  The odds of a bad pump are very low.  The motor probably got wet.  It would be simple to pull the motor from the pump and test it like @oldjeep said, and no doubt take it apart for a cleaning.  "Not serviceable" usually means they don't make a kit.  The motor is simple and easy to repair as long as it didn't burn a winding.  The pump will only go bad if water leaked inside, so it should only take a few o-rings and a gland to fix.

On OMC outboards in salt water, we always kept the trim/tilt motors fully coated in LPS 3 to help keep the water out.  I don't know of a single one that failed as long as the coating was freshened up every few months.

[oldjeep]

35 minutes ago, justgary said:

This.  The odds of a bad pump are very low.  The motor probably got wet.  It would be simple to pull the motor from the pump and test it like @oldjeep said, and no doubt take it apart for a cleaning.  "Not serviceable" usually means they don't make a kit.  The motor is simple and easy to repair as long as it didn't burn a winding.  The pump will only go bad if water leaked inside, so it should only take a few o-rings and a gland to fix.

On OMC outboards in salt water, we always kept the trim/tilt motors fully coated in LPS 3 to help keep the water out.  I don't know of a single one that failed as long as the coating was freshened up every few months.

LOL - I was thinking about issues I had in the past with an OMC trim pump   This one was for an old Cobra I/O

[CarveItUp228]

Thanks for all the input. Just to summarize:

 

I have put a multimeter on the wires inside the transom and I get over 12V when I actuate the wedge from the dash. I also have a spare battery that has 12V across it, and when I connect to the actuator nothing happens. It also indicates as an open circuit when I test for resistance, but I know sometimes that can be misleading.

 

But those two tests seem to indicate the unit is broken in some way.

 

Still waiting back on the guy from Parker about servicing. If he says no, then yes, I will take apart the unit and check things out and report back.

 

 

 

 

 

[CarveItUp228]

On 4/9/2024 at 8:24 AM, Nick55 said:

On page 6 of the link PNWoke provided, there's instructions for opening the "emergency" bypass.  If you turn that red colored screw counterclockwise to it's stop, you can check the rod for free movement by pulling it out and pushing it back in.  Based off what I see in that document, you could also run the motor while it's in bypass and see if it turns on as well.  To re-engage the bypass, turn the screw clockwise until it stops.

 

OK I turned the red screw CCW. For a while it backed out, and then it just kept turning. I imagine it is a "captive" screw. I tried to move the piston but it wouldn't budge. I put quite a bit of force on it. Finally I was able to push on it by turning the unit downward and pushing against it and it retracted an inch or so.

 

Connecting to battery still had no effect.

 

[CarveItUp228]

OK, got another reply back from Parker:

 

Good afternoon sir. After checking with my Parker rep, it looks like this EHA unit is proprietary to TH Marine. Unfortunately, AFP is unable to do anything with this unit for that sole reason. I would try reaching out to TH Marine to see if they have a replacement or can help troubleshoot. I apologize we are unable to help in this instance.

 

[PNWoke]

It shouldn’t be real hard to extend or contract the ram when the set screw is turned counterclockwise.  I remember that I only needed to unscrew less than 1 full turn to be able to move the wedge in any direction with ease.  Based on what you’re describing, it is likely a problem with the hydraulic side, vs the electrical motor running it.  The ram likely seized causing the motor to seize (if unprotected).  That set screw essentially opens up a hydraulic fluid channel between both sides of the hydraulic ram so the fluid should just run between them when the ram is pushed or pulled.  From what you describe, your relays are still likely good.  If I were you I would refrain from testing this wedge ram anymore through your boat screen for fear of causing heat/current related electrical issues with your relays/wedge control modules.  Those relays are pretty sensitive and prone to failure, so using them with a known likely bad wedge actuator might invite extra problems down the road.

Edited April 22 by PNWoke