Wiring new stereo 2002 Sunsetter

[CUSetter]

Happy Friday,

 

So, I’ve searched, googled, saved, and looked everywhere for opinions on the install of my new stereo in my 2002 Sunsetter. In piecing together, I am about 80% confident, but a few things are missing for me on the install that I am hoping I can get help with. Disclaimer; I am very comfortable with home/car wiring, but the difference between those and the boat is; they have a somewhat pre-set base that I add on to or adjust. Here, I’m working with the bare bones, and feel I am essentially starting from scratch.

 

Base system is your typical 4 6.5” rounds, armrest head unit, no tower, no sub. I am adding:

(4) JL M6 6.5” (may put 8” in the back)

(1) JL M6 sub 10”

WS420BT as the sole unit

JL M600/6 amp for speakers

JL MX500/1 amp for sub

JL XD-FDBU-4 Way block

 

Currently have two optima batteries installed with a blue sea selector.

 

Where I am struggling is how to wire into the batteries, what needs fusing, etc. With the distribution block, do I still need fuses for the amps? Also, to I run the + to the battery, or Bluesea? What about the negative terminal? What about the WS420BT? Lastly, how best should I wire the 600/6 to the speakers?

 

I know much of this may seem basic, and I hate asking because I SHOULD be able to figure it out, but am at a bit of a block!

 

Lastly, any recommendations for locations of adding two more speakers, either under the observers compartment, side storage (mine is an XTi) or bow?

[DRB10SEVEN]

Seems like you have a good idea of what you are wanting! Here are a few thoughts I have.

As far as fusing, the distribution block fuses should be all you need. The only way I would potentially add another fuse to the power circuit is if you have a long run of power wire before you get to the distribution block. In that case I would run a really big fuse close to the battery positive connection so you don't have a bunch of unfused wire running through your boat.(I would connect to the Blue Sea switch). Negative goes straight to battery negative.

For speaker wiring, I would use each channel normally and not bridge anything. Speakers and amp are both rated 75w@4ohms. Seems pretty straightforward there unless I am missing something.

Now for the WS420BT, my experience is probably not applicable since I was using the older non bluetooth version and I was running the stock radio through it and then to all the amps, but mine introduced a ton of whine/static/noise into the speakers. It very well may have been a wiring issue or something (it was installed by the previous owner) but I could never figure out how to get rid of the noise. If you run yours as a stand alone unit it may work great for what you are wanting. Personally, I ditched all the stock radio stuff as well as the WS420 in my boat and installed the Wet Sounds MC-1. I absolutely love the WS-MC-1. The zone control is great and I fell like I have everything I want in a radio. I like having a full screen, big volume knob, transom remote, etc. though and maybe that stuff isn't as important to you. Regardless good luck with your project! I will be curious to see how it turns out/sounds!

[solorex]

Looks like your power questions were answered above.  For additional speakers, honestly I would just keep it simple.  Stick with the 4x 6.5" and the sub, with the appropriate cross overs to the 6.5" it'll be great.  I wouldn't go 8" in the back or add anything else.

Pretty funny but I run 4x 4" Polks in my Tantrum with a ported 12" sub in the bow.  Pioneer bluetooth deck, powered by 2 old school PPI art series amps.  I get compliments on my system all the time.  Obviously it has some short comings but it sounds pretty damn good for what it is; it's all about being fussy and adjusting the amps and cross overs correctly and having good line voltage from the deck.

[CUSetter]

Really appreciate the quick responses! I ASSUMED with the distribution block, and the MAXI fuses in there, that would do the job (running 0/1 from bluesea to block, and 4 or 6 gauge to the amp)

 

assume a 12/14ga power would work to the WS420? I bought it used on eBay early on, but mildly regret not getting a more “complete” head unit.

[DRB10SEVEN]

I wouldn't sweat it, the 420 could always be swapped out with a more traditional head unit if you wanted to in the future. I say give it a try, you may be perfectly happy with it.

As for wire size, the 420 has a fuse in line and if I remember correctly it is only a 2 amp, so wire size should not be an issue. 12-14 gauge would be fine.

 

[wdr]

I installed the older version of the 420 w/o BT in my 2010 and never used the radio again. Ran only Spotify or Pandora through the Aux provision. I loved that setup and ease of use. 

[MLA]

To simplify the power cabling, I would suggest the larger of the two 5 channel aml that manufacture offers over the 6 chnl and mono. One GND cable, one B+ cable with circuit protection. 

Terminate the trunk B+ to the common output of the main switch with proper circuit protection thats valued for the load and cable. Ground trunk to the closes B- post.

Your BT needs to share the exact same voltage source as the amp. 

 

[CUSetter]

19 hours ago, MLA said:

To simplify the power cabling, I would suggest the larger of the two 5 channel aml that manufacture offers over the 6 chnl and mono. One GND cable, one B+ cable with circuit protection. 

Terminate the trunk B+ to the common output of the main switch with proper circuit protection thats valued for the load and cable. Ground trunk to the closes B- post.

Your BT needs to share the exact same voltage source as the amp. 

 

Yes…unfortunately I was piece-reading posts and started buying equipment from several different sources, including eBay. So, I can’t return the amps. If it makes enough difference, I can just sell them myself at risk of taking a loss, and buy the 5 channel amp, if it makes enough of a difference.

[CUSetter]

Ok…last question, which I am VERY embarrassed to ask.

How do I wire from the amp to the WS head unit? I know the speaker wire into the amp from speakers into the 4 channels, but there is only 1 pair of Aux-Out for the speakers, unless I want to use “tower”. Do I need a 4 channel-1 wire? This should be easy…but I can’t find the answer!

[DRB10SEVEN]

7 minutes ago, CUSetter said:

Ok…last question, which I am VERY embarrassed to ask.

How do I wire from the amp to the WS head unit? I know the speaker wire into the amp from speakers into the 4 channels, but there is only 1 pair of Aux-Out for the speakers, unless I want to use “tower”. Do I need a 4 channel-1 wire? This should be easy…but I can’t find the answer!

That JL amp should have an input mode switch. Put it to 2 channel mode and the whole amp will run off of the channel 1/2 input. In that case you will need 2 RCA cables, 1 from sub output to the sub amp, and 1 from boat output to the 6 channel amp 1/2 input.

If you wanted to, you could use the "tower" output as the output to the 3/4 input to that amp, and be able to separately control EQ/volume between front and rear of the boat (front being 1/2 rear being 3/4 for instance) but that isn't necessary.

[DRB10SEVEN]

Also, if you do not have the manuals for all the audio equipment you bought, Crutchfield has manuals online if you go to the product page for each item you have. You can download pdf's of the manuals for each amp and the WS420. Just figured I would mention that in case those would help answer some of your questions moving forward!

[shalesh12]

On 3/8/2024 at 6:10 PM, CUSetter said:

Happy Friday,

 

So, I’ve searched, googled, saved, and looked everywhere for opinions on the install of my new stereo in my 2002 Sunsetter. In piecing together, I am about 80% confident, but a few things are missing for me on the install that I am hoping I can get help with. Disclaimer; I am very comfortable with home/car wiring, but the difference between those and the boat is; they have a somewhat pre-set base that I add on to or adjust. Here, I’m working with the bare bones, and feel I am essentially starting from scratch.

 

Base system is your typical 4 6.5” rounds, armrest head unit, no tower, no sub. I am adding:

(4) JL M6 6.5” (may put 8” in the back)

(1) JL M6 sub 10”

WS420BT as the sole unit

JL M600/6 amp for speakers

JL MX500/1 amp for sub

JL XD-FDBU-4 Way block

 

Currently have two optima batteries installed with a blue sea selector.

 

Where I am struggling is how to wire into the batteries, what needs fusing, etc. With the distribution block, do I still need fuses for the amps? Also, to I run the + to the battery, or Bluesea? What about the negative terminal? What about the WS420BT? Lastly, how best should I wire the 600/6 to the speakers?

 

I know much of this may seem basic, and I hate asking because I SHOULD be able to figure it out, but am at a bit of a block!

 

Lastly, any recommendations for locations of adding two more speakers, either under the observers compartment, side storage (mine is an XTi) or bow?

rent a car dubai

You also helped me to make such thing possible in my car. thank you so much.

[CUSetter]

Hate to keep reviving this, but question for the experts.

 

I installed everything, but my WS420 doesn’t seem to be getting power. I tried using the existing HU Power and Ground, so assume that’s the issue (wanted to have the ACC/toggle usage). Am I correct? If so, is there a way to at least use the stereo toggle?

 

I tried running back from the breaker, and saw that wire ran to the ign, and wired what I assumed was hot from the dash-toggle to the HU (white/blue wire). Only wire that I didn’t use was the white/purple. 

thanks again!

[MLA]

On your course, you are going to have ground-loop noise. EVERY piece of the audio equipment needs to share the same voltage source so you do not want to connect the zone controller's power harness to anything under the helm

To your root issue. Did you terminate the zone controller's blue turn-on lead to the head-units remote amp turn-on output or whatever source provides the 12V signal to wake the amps up?

[CUSetter]

I ran the blue remote wire direct to each amp from the WS420. I didn’t connect any wire from under the helm to the new WS420 (other than the power/ground).

 

Just so I’m clear on the + to the WS, does it need its own run to the same distribution block as the amps? From the Dist. Block, I connected both amps, and the main helm +, each with their own dedicated fuse (50A each for the amps, and 60A for the under-helm). I assumed since that’s all the same voltage source, would be fine.

 

But, are you saying I need to run from the WS420:

-Dedicated + from Distribution block

-Dedicated Ground

-Wire the remote from the switch/ign under helm, and also to the amps?

Thanks again! I am soooo close, I just want to figure out my Mistake and get this project wrapped!

Edited April 8 by CUSetter

[MLA]

On the blue wire. Its an input to wake the zone controller up like the amp. So however you are turning the amps on now, can be used to also wake up the zone controller. You can use a helm rocker for this turn-on, I would not use the Ign

Where do the amps get their B+ from? Thats where the zone controller get its

Where do the amps get their B- from? Same for the zone controller. 

[CUSetter]

I guess I was trying to turn the amps on from the WS-420, which obviously if it’s not getting power, explains part of the issue. Again, I don’t have a Head unit, as I am using the WS for that purpose.

I drew a very rough schematic, so that hopefully helps.

https://imgur.com/a/S34MU6N

[MLA]

Based on that diagram, the zone controller has B+ and B-. However, it nor your amps, are going to wakeup and come on without 12V B+ on the blue turn-on. 

[shawndoggy]

basically what you need to do is:

1.  Pull a fused run (18awg / 2A is going to be fine) of power (RED/B+) from your JL distro block and ground (BLACK/B-) from the same negative battery post where your amps are grounded to under the helm.

2. Connect the ground wire (black/B-) to black on the WS420.

3. Split the power (red/B+) into two leads.

4. Connect one lead to the red wire on the WS420.

5 Connect the other lead to an on-off switch (you may have spares in your dash?), with the OUTPUT from the switch connected to the blue wire(s) to WS420 and your amps.  Now you can turn your WS420 and your amps on and off with the switch.  When the switch energizes the blue wire, the system should turn on.

 

Edited April 8 by shawndoggy