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Advice for Prop Damage


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Yesterday it finally happened...we hit something in the lake.  We have a 2002 Sunsetter on the diamond hull running a standard ACME 541 prop.  We were barely moving but in gear and struck something underwater - likely a piece of submerged concrete wall near the boat ramp.  It bend around 3/4" of one blade pretty good so I have a couple questions....

1. Which prop do I replace it with?  ACME says a 475 will give a better/softer wake for skiing and I would love to tame the rooster tail just a bit - has anyone tried this switch from a 515 to 475 and what was their result?

2. The boat makes a whining noise in gear now - the shaft rotates about like it did before and doesn't seem to have any tightness or different feel - should I pull the shaft and have it checked?  Who can check for a bend propshaft?

3. In my research I have found that you have to drop the rudder to pull the shaft - If I end up going that route - how hard it this to do?  The rudder seems to be buried under the fuel tank and the far rear so what is the easiest way to access it?

At least it's October and not July but I was hoping for another week or 2 of skiing before winterization time.

Thanks for your help!

Edited by Johnseed
wrong prop number - corrected now
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Is it whining with the bent prop or a good one?

Also, your current prop should be repairable.  You would be amazed at what a good shop can do.

Edited by oldjeep
  • Like 3
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Might be a good idea to get a new prop and get the old one repaired.

I have no knowledge regarding the 475, but I'd be inclined to give ACME the benefit of the doubt. 

Always a good idea to have a prop puller/"weekend saver" kit for just such an occasion, and with the old prop repaired, you should be GTG.

I'm with oldjeep.  I wouldn't worry yet about the shaft until after you have the bent prop repaired/replaced.  Whining may disappear. 

  • Like 3
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On 10/7/2023 at 8:51 AM, Johnseed said:

…..

3. In my research I have found that you have to drop the rudder to pull the shaft - If I end up going that route - how hard it this to do?  The rudder seems to be buried under the fuel tank and the far rear so what is the easiest way to access it?

At least it's October and not July but I was hoping for another week or 2 of skiing before winterization time.

Thanks for your help!

You can access the rudder under the fuel tank. It is a tight space but doable. There should be a horizontal bolt near the top of the rudder post. Support the rudder from below and then remove the bolt. The rudder will drop. The only complication would be clearing the prop guard on the trailer or diving in the lake to find the rudder if you attempt the on a boat lift. 

IMG_2994.jpeg

Edited by Bozboat
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If it comes down to you needing to remove the rudder on the trailer it’s a bit of a pain but doable. If you loosen all 4 of the rudder bolts in the hull you will be able to move the rudder base assembly to either side of the bar enough to drop the rudder out of the hull. The challenge will be getting the assembly to dislodge from the outer hull to be able to drop the rudder. I am guessing that Malibu used the 3M, 5200 on all of the through hulls on my 2010 and that stuff created a significant emotional event to free it. I had a good putty knife and a lot of luck on my side when I did mine. Reassembly was straight forward with the correct sealant. Your rudder assembly may or may not have the grease zerk. It may or may not have a weighted tiller arm, on a 2002 unlikely I am guessing. Good luck.

Edited by wdr
Cl
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You can block the trailer wheels and lower the trailer tongue as low as possible, then block the back of the boat hull with a wooden post and a couple jack stands, then raise the trailer tongue. You can also short bunk the boat at the boat ramp and drop the rudder. 

Edited by Bozboat
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