Pro 750 project begins

[chathamsolutions]

Thanks! Got the sacs the other day. I got a pair of 750s and a 680 rear seat sac to move around on either side of the LSV when attendance is low.

For some reason, I thought the 750s had 2 drains. Mine have 1 fill, 1 vent, 1 drain. I still plan to put the drain pump on the rear of the bag (transom side) so as to promote full drain, as someone else suggessted. And am using all Fly Hi fittings, not the waterbed type. I am going to start by trying to plumb just like the tanks were. I ordered a bunch of fittings from wakeside that should be here early next week.

I will be completing the sac install and the severe stereo overhaul the last week in Feb, so many more photos and reports to follow ;-)

Take care,

Scott

My hard tanks had the drain and fill in the front and vent in back. So, if you're going to make it like the tanks, then you'd need to have the drain / fill in front. I'd recommend this, it's how I do it. As Brad mentioned, if you have the drain in back (transom) then the pump gets squished. With it forward it has room for the pump and lines underneath the rear seats. If you put it in back, I'd be afraid the lines would get squished as well and not work.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

OK ok ok...sold on the front mount drain. But let the record reflect, my drain on my tank was in the bottom rear/transom. I do see you all's point about the squash and better to swell on the front (free end) than the back (trapped end). Not sure what you meant in your comment, Ronnie, about the locker size? Mine looks eggzachery like Adam's, FWIW.

Can't wait to farkle with the boat some more!!! That is half the fun!

Scott

Thanks! Got the sacs the other day. I got a pair of 750s and a 680 rear seat sac to move around on either side of the LSV when attendance is low.

For some reason, I thought the 750s had 2 drains. Mine have 1 fill, 1 vent, 1 drain. I still plan to put the drain pump on the rear of the bag (transom side) so as to promote full drain, as someone else suggessted. And am using all Fly Hi fittings, not the waterbed type. I am going to start by trying to plumb just like the tanks were. I ordered a bunch of fittings from wakeside that should be here early next week.

I will be completing the sac install and the severe stereo overhaul the last week in Feb, so many more photos and reports to follow ;-)

Take care,

Scott

My hard tanks had the drain and fill in the front and vent in back. So, if you're going to make it like the tanks, then you'd need to have the drain / fill in front. I'd recommend this, it's how I do it. As Brad mentioned, if you have the drain in back (transom) then the pump gets squished. With it forward it has room for the pump and lines underneath the rear seats. If you put it in back, I'd be afraid the lines would get squished as well and not work.

[chathamsolutions]

OK ok ok...sold on the front mount drain. But let the record reflect, my drain on my tank was in the bottom rear/transom. I do see you all's point about the squash and better to swell on the front (free end) than the back (trapped end). Not sure what you meant in your comment, Ronnie, about the locker size? Mine looks eggzachery like Adam's, FWIW.

FYI - my name is Andy

unless you're talking about 'Ronnie' - his name is Ronnie. Or 'Brad B' - his name is Brad.

[Ronnie]

Don't know from Adam.

On Brad's boat ('03) 23LSV on the Diamond hull, his lockers are 6-8" longer than mine on a '04 23LSV on the wake hull. As we know the Wake hull was changed in '04 for the 23' LSV. Was the Diamond hull changed too? Does anyone know about the Diamond hull's locker length for '04 compared to the Wake hull? I would assume that the '04 Diamond has the same short locker as mine does. The 750 ProX bags will fit the older lockers better than the new ones. I want to do this mod too but I don't want to stuff those bigger bags into the smaller lockers if I can find a way around it.

[chathamsolutions]

They aren't that much bigger than our lockers Ronnie. Pretty darn close. It wouldn't be worth the upcharge to buy custom bags IMO.

Ugh. Now back to fixing the sprinklers in the front yard while it's 70F outside. First warm weekend in months...

[Ronnie]

Actually there is a lot of difference. We've compared.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

My bad. Where did I get Adam? Hmmmmm

Scott

FYI - my name is Andy

unless you're talking about 'Ronnie' - his name is Ronnie. Or 'Brad B' - his name is Brad.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

Seems like I measured mine once (a while back) and IIRC, it measured 43-44" front to back. But that was with the pseudo-wall in place. It should fill all the way up except the top 3" or so, or so I *think*.

Will let you know post-install.

Scott (aka: Scott)

Actually there is a lot of difference. We've compared.

[Brad B]

The stock pumps screw directly in to the Pro-X sac - for the drain.

I used no other fittings - except an o-ring so it would seat and seal.

Just depends on how ez you want to disconnect - I'm gonna do an ez electrical disconnect - mainly cuz I don't trust those water quick discos - I've "accidents" had every version.

Quick disconnects on the top fill side is OK just not on the bottom drain.

Experience from the last couple of years with plumbed in sacs shows that we don't totally remove them that often - only 3-4 times during the summer for cleanup and dry out - and then at winterizing.

[WakeGirl]

The stock pumps screw directly in to the Pro-X sac - for the drain.

I used no other fittings - except an o-ring so it would seat and seal.

Just depends on how ez you want to disconnect - I'm gonna do an ez electrical disconnect - mainly cuz I don't trust those water quick discos - I've "accidents" had every version.

Quick disconnects on the top fill side is OK just not on the bottom drain.

Experience from the last couple of years with plumbed in sacs shows that we don't totally remove them that often - only 3-4 times during the summer for cleanup and dry out - and then at winterizing.

Exactly what my experience is as well. I thought that I would take them out more often, but with the quick connects on the fill & vent, I just fold them forward up over the top of the rear seat to let the compartments dry out - we rarely actually pull them out completely. Even though I haven't had any problems or accidents, I think that I'm also going to do as Brad is & go with some electrical quick connects & ditch the ones for the pumps. They're too loose & don't make a solid connection that I can be confident in.

[Brad B]

A little better solution.

Found a fitting at Lowes thats 3/4" male thread (fits the Sac threads) and a 3/4" swivel hose fitting. Fits the pump into the sac perfectly and allows ez unscrewing to remove for cleaning.

I got 4 of them - 2 to fit the drain pumps and the other 2 for the overflow lines - cost me $7.

[chathamsolutions]

A little better solution.

Found a fitting at Lowes thats 3/4" male thread (fits the Sac threads) and a 3/4" swivel hose fitting. Fits the pump into the sac perfectly and allows ez unscrewing to remove for cleaning.

I got 4 of them - 2 to fit the drain pumps and the other 2 for the overflow lines - cost me $7.

Wont' this still cause you to 'screw' the pumps in and out though? Even if you only do it rarely, it's still thrashing your wiring.

I think I'm going to stick with the quick disconnects - the simple twist on/off - for the pumps, until I have a failure. Then I'll screw them on until you guys find a better way

Folding them over the seats is a good idea. I'll definately have to do that.

- Scott, you can't do that effectively if the drain is at the transom...

[WakeGirl]

A little better solution.

Found a fitting at Lowes thats 3/4" male thread (fits the Sac threads) and a 3/4" swivel hose fitting. Fits the pump into the sac perfectly and allows ez unscrewing to remove for cleaning.

I got 4 of them - 2 to fit the drain pumps and the other 2 for the overflow lines - cost me $7.

Wont' this still cause you to 'screw' the pumps in and out though? Even if you only do it rarely, it's still thrashing your wiring.

I think I'm going to stick with the quick disconnects - the simple twist on/off - for the pumps, until I have a failure. Then I'll screw them on until you guys find a better way

Folding them over the seats is a good idea. I'll definately have to do that.

- Scott, you can't do that effectively if the drain is at the transom...

I think that's what the swivel protects against - you don't have to twist the entire pump around, just the fitting. Is that right Brad?

[Brad B]

yep

just like the end of a waterhose that connects to the hydrant

[Brad B]

I put the sacs in and tested the drain pump useing the fitting yesterday.

I used an O ring at the end of the the threads of the fitting going in to the sac - no drips and solid connection.

Filled the sacs full to see if any got pushed out thru the drain pump - none at all - I did re-loop the hose from the drain as high under the gunnels as I could - before it was just looped as high as the thru hole for the drain and overflow.

I installed the new 1100 gph pumps for the fill - but hafta run new hose cuz its 1" id and the stock was 3/4" id.

The sacs fit very easily - I have 54" of length to deal with so plenty of room. Also once its filled there still some room for a couple of jackets.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

So maybe if I use a longer drain hose that can loop once up high, that will be enough to keep it from pushing water thru the drain pump and auto draining? Had been planning on putting some one way valves somehow but not sure how that might work? Looping sounds like it does the trick. I recon I will do it as you and "ANDY" have done. Seems to be effective. I think I am going to seal and screw in the pumps to the bag and just use electical quick connects for IF want to take them out. Could see the benefit of just flopping it it from the transom forward without d/c'ing anything. I got all the connectors, etc...from wakeside today. Hoping to get the install completed later this week. Not sure if I will have enough drain line to loop, can't remember how long it was. Seems like the drain (currently my vent) line wasn't any too long. Will have enough vent (currently my drain at the transom) to accomodate the bag tho.

Getting Closer!

I put the sacs in and tested the drain pump useing the fitting yesterday.

I used an O ring at the end of the the threads of the fitting going in to the sac - no drips and solid connection.

Filled the sacs full to see if any got pushed out thru the drain pump - none at all - I did re-loop the hose from the drain as high under the gunnels as I could - before it was just looped as high as the thru hole for the drain and overflow.

I installed the new 1100 gph pumps for the fill - but hafta run new hose cuz its 1" id and the stock was 3/4" id.

The sacs fit very easily - I have 54" of length to deal with so plenty of room. Also once its filled there still some room for a couple of jackets.

[chathamsolutions]

Brad, can you take a pic of your drain pump setup?

[WaveMake'nLSV]

With regard to the looping to prevent backflow, you mean? Weren't you using, or are/were going to use, some sort of valve?

Ditto me on the pic request.

Brad, can you take a pic of your drain pump setup?

[chathamsolutions]

I installed a ball valve. Didn't do the loop.

I had drain issues, so installed the ball valve. If you can get the loop to work, you're golden.

[Brad B]

I'll take pics of the ho deal this weekend - I'm working late all week so won't be at the boat in daylight.

The loop worked fine for the drain side - dunno bout the fill side yet.

I plan on using a valve there cuz its more due to "syphoning effect".

But I wonder if syphoning is caused by the fill nozzle going too far in to the sac and piercing the surface of the water in the sac and allowing contact. With some space between the fill nozzle and the water surface I'm thinking that syphoning may be eliminated.

[WaveMake'nLSV]

So you think it is feasible to do a ball valve on the fill side and loop the drain? Sounds like that might be a winning combo, IMHO.

I'll take pics of the ho deal this weekend - I'm working late all week so won't be at the boat in daylight.

The loop worked fine for the drain side - dunno bout the fill side yet.

I plan on using a valve there cuz its more due to "syphoning effect".

But I wonder if syphoning is caused by the fill nozzle going too far in to the sac and piercing the surface of the water in the sac and allowing contact. With some space between the fill nozzle and the water surface I'm thinking that syphoning may be eliminated.

[chathamsolutions]

Hmmm... I think my ball valve is on the drain side, not the fill side.

I'll have to go and look again tonight.

[Brad B]

Ha ha

Sorry I thought you meant a check valve style of ball valve - one that only allows flow in one direction.

A check valve wouldn't do any good on the drain side cuz it only goes one way anyway.

A ball c*** valve that you would manipulate to allow or cancel flow would help on the drain side but you'd hafta turn it on and off by hand.

Im' tellin ya though -if ya loop it high enough under the gunnel you won't need any such valve.

I used a "Brady valve" on the fill with my previous setup - its an inline valve that only allows flow one way - I'll probably do the same for this one but hafta get bigger cuz I'm using 1"id hose now.

Does anybody want my 2 Brady valves for the 3/4" hose?

[WaveMake'nLSV]

PM sent

SOLD!

Does anybody want my 2 Brady valves for the 3/4" hose?

[thestockbroker]

I did the prox 750 setup...fill top rear...vent top front...drain front bottom. I rode today and ended up having to tow someone in before I rode (about 10 min) checked the sacs and they were almost half way empty??? I donj't know what happened to the water, it was not draining out the vent or the drain pump. Was this a result of siphoning from the fill pump? Help needed. I also have a problem with air stuck in the bag......thus not getting the full potential. Also I have thought about cutting the front wall just underneath the shock absorber for the locker door, has anyone done this? Thanks for the input